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can I do my own ring and pinon

J

James90

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my truck has 2.73s in it and i what to put bigger tires on it so i want to put 4.10s or 4.56s in it but I dont have the money to pay some body to do it

so can i do it my self if so could i use the gov lock out of my rearand put it in the front becaus i want to put a spool in the back?

thanks

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You also need to see what the highest (numerically) gear your carrier will accept since you have 2.73. I know I wouldn't try it. I think you need quite a few special tools.

89 K5 Silverado
<a target="_blank" href=http://mudfrog.rockcrawler.com>http://mudfrog.rockcrawler.com</a>
 
Oh yea... You might as well keep an eye out for a set of 10 bolts with lower gears and swap the whole axle. Or upgrade your axles and buy new wheels while your at it. But buy the time you have done that you could have payed someone to put the gears in. So I think your best route would be buy someone elses 10 bolts with lower gears. It's a very easy swap.

89 K5 Silverado
<a target="_blank" href=http://mudfrog.rockcrawler.com>http://mudfrog.rockcrawler.com</a>
 
Well, interesting question...

Can you do it yourself, maybe. Cost, may not save you much financially, depending on the costs you have been quoted. The specialty tools you will need are:
1. Dial caliper
2. Dial indicator (for measuring backlash) with magnetic stand
3. other various tools you may have laying around

When I did mine, it cost me about $250 total for all the tools I needed. I did my rear end one weekend (all day one Saturday) and the front the next weekend. Granted, I have the pleasure of knowing I did it myself, but it took some doing.

Its not hard. Randy's Ring &amp; Pinion website (My Jimmy with all her projects!
 
I forgot to talk about your gear choice! I would not go any bigger than 4.56 in a 10-bolt axle. You could go with 4.88s, but the pinion gets so small it becomes a highly vulnerable part. I have 4.56s in mine and love them.

It also depends on your tire size, driving habits, and transmission. 4.56s work great for me using a 700R4 with OD and driving 2-3 days a week to work on the highway. Smaller tires, a manual tranny, or a non-OD auto tranny, however, could make these gears less than optimal. But think ahead when doing this. You don't want to build it for 33" tires now and go to 35s later and be unhappy. Gears are something you want to do once, and only once. (although I have done mine a couple of times now, but I think I re-did them just becasue I could and needed to help justify the cost of the tools!).

Brian
Check out <a target="_blank" href=http://tx85gmcguy.alloffroad.com>My Jimmy</a> with all her projects!
 
I am really tired of 31s and want to go to 33s then lift it to 35s or 36s and I really want 3/4 ton axles but cant find/aford them

I was thanking about reuseing the gov lock because I already have it. Then use the open cerryer from the front with a mini spool in the back

from summit it is 150 for 4.56 so that is 300
88 for instal kit
99 for mini spool
so that would be 487.00

I might just put 33s on the 2.73s till I can find some 3/4 ton axles

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I forgot to say that I have acses to the .
Dial caliper
Dial indicator with magnetic stand
and I use them every day so I can handel that part
as for the crush bearing I dont know how I would to that other than a 3/4 drive rachet and a long pice of pipe


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I got my 3/4 ton axles for free. I bolted them in and that's how I got my lower gears. 3/4 ton trucks usually have 3.73 gears or 4.10s.

Hit junkyards. It's cheaper than a gear swap for us tightwads.

Tim
'84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
 
I've found it easier to "pre-crush" the sleeve in press. The hardest part to crushing a sleeve is to get it to Start crushing. Once it starts it become easier and you don't have to have arms like Arnold in order continue crushing it (but you do in order to start, or have a really long and big pipe for leverage). The only word of caution is not to over crush it initially, just do it enough to get it started.

See my rig at <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Leadfoot>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Leadfoot</a>
 
if i've followed all this axle crap correctly, could he drop in a 12b? and i mean, literally, drop in, no mods what-so-ever? and they have the same wheel pattern as 10b's?
my 10b is on its way out, and it looks more and more like replacing it with a 12b/4.56 is the way i'd like to go. i can change the gears up front then, or put it off if i have to. as long as i DO NOT lock the hubs or put it into 4WD, it shouldn't be an issue, right?

<font color=purple>delta9blazer</font color=purple>
 
Correct... a 12 bolt will bolt right in.. obviously just make sure it's from a 4wd, 2wd's have 5 lug.

89 K5 Silverado
<a target="_blank" href=http://mudfrog.rockcrawler.com>http://mudfrog.rockcrawler.com</a>
 
I'm not familiar with 12 bolts, but perches, shock mounts, wheel patterns (if both 4x4) should be the same. The only thing I'm not sure of is e-brake cable setups. Does anybody know if he would have to modify the e-brake?

See my rig at <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Leadfoot>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Leadfoot</a>
 
There are two differen't setups for the ebrake. One has the bracket on the driverside and the passenger side cable travels over the diff and connects at the driver side. The other has the connection on each side. I ran into this problem when doing my 14 bolt swap. But there is a way to rig it to work. Do a search and you will find out how.

89 K5 Silverado
<a target="_blank" href=http://mudfrog.rockcrawler.com>http://mudfrog.rockcrawler.com</a>
 
would an 81 4x4 GMC 3500 have a dana 60 and 14B in it because I found one that I might go look at

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Yes the 81 GMC 3500 would have the D60/14 FF in it factory. Most likely 4.10's as well.

Rene

<font color=green>Dyslexics of the world...UNTIE!</font color=green>
 
cool I will try to go take a look at it

it is at the beach so the body is most likely shot and it has a 350AT so it must not have a BB in it

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