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Can i safely run with out the TC lockup

shady

shady

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in the first 3 gears of my 700r4 for a little while. I plan on wiring it in when I find the direction I wanna go (seems theres like 5000 different ways to wire it in:rolleyes:). but for now to test and see if my truck will run right, will I be ok without hooking it up?
 
The TC lockup should only be in D and OD. The trans temps will get hot with no lockup after any amount of higher speed driving as there will always be some slippage then.
 
by looking at most of the wiring diagrams it looks as though the
res a pressure switch that senses when its in 4th and only lets it come into play then.... if im reading then all right:rolleyes: im planning a switch to turn it on that lets the pressure swtich do its thing, plus a switch that bypasses that and locks it up continually if I need it so that I can prevent the constant hunting in and out of lockup on the interstate. ill try and draw it up at work tonight.....
I shouldn't really need the second switch since I no longer have a manifold pressure/vac sensor or a TPS
 
don't forget to wire it in to the brake light switch .

you don't wana panic stop in locked up mode and stall a engine.
 
You can run in third forever out of lockup, the engine rpm will exceed the stock stall speed by a great margin. You can wire the lockup solenoid any way you find comfortable to use, I also recommend keeping the voltage running through the brake switch. HGM electronics builds an awesome lockup controller The Compushift Mini, it is worth looking at.
 
Thanks for the link. When they were developing this system they sent me one to play around with. It worked as seamlessly as the factory computer system does on my Burb, I highly recommend it if you can stand the buy in.
 
It's not the fact the torque converter is not locking, but rather the heat build-up it can cause. If you keep an eye on the tranny temps it should be fine especially if you stay in 3rd.

My dad toasted the tranny in one of his old small Blazers because of the torque converter not locking but he always ran it in OD. The vehicle had about 50k on it and not sure how long it ran with no lock-up. The fluid was black when it was checked, and we know for sure the TC was not locking because of damaged wiring.
 
that system would also require me to fab a TPS into my setup :dunno:.... I could pull the one off my tbi... but it is already the most expensive option. im going to wire it up with just the brake switch for now and see if its ok to deal with. im liking the on or off way of things at this moment because it was constantly cycling as it was due to my tires and gears.

basically like this for now. possibly without the toggle switch even since I just need it driveable for testing purposes

tcc_diagram.jpg
 
I was thinking of a switch to turn it off completely also... but with the 4th gear pressure switch I don't think it would be needed. now I just got to figure out exactly what wire I need to put power to in the plug
 
You should already have power at the A terminal of the plug of the brake switch if that part of the system is still intact( furthest to the front and outside of the case connector). Your solenoid will have two wires, a tan wire for 12V and a black wire for ground. If you are doing away with the Computer you can terminate the ground at a valve body bolt and just run 12 volts to a normally open two prong 4th gear pressure switch, or you can run 12V straight to the solenoid and run the ground wire to a 4th pressure switch. The Compushift Mini does not require a TPS if you want to go that way.
 
should the trans already have the pressure switch..... ? if so I shouldn't have to drop the pan which is what I'm trying to avoid at the moment... ill just toggle switch to the tan wire for now..... off of the brake switch.


now I just got to figure out what other parts of my harness I can remove . :rolleyes:

I got a full wiring diagram for 88 light duty trucks from someone on here and its great... but the burb is slightly different cause the diagram is for the body changed pickups:doah:
 
If you want to run it off a toggle and not drop the pan run 12 volts to the A terminal and ground the wire going to the D terminal
 
basically im just going to drive it around for a while to make sure I cured my stalling/running issue. and if it works for a week or 2 then ill get more in depth and do a controller of some sort like the 1 linked or something.

just wanting to make sure I can drive it back and forth to work during that without burning up the trans
 
shady said:
basically im just going to drive it around for a while to make sure I cured my stalling/running issue. and if it works for a week or 2 then ill get more in depth and do a controller of some sort like the 1 linked or something.

just wanting to make sure I can drive it back and forth to work during that without burning up the trans
Click to expand...


I would say yes, but you probably don't want my opinion about 700R4 transmissions this month... :haha:
 
lol. they're good tranny's... :waytogo: just gotta be set right and when built they can be awesome.
 
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