Can this block/crank/heads be salvaged?

[Metalhead47]

Got my motor stripped down to where I can start to see the damage. Thanx to all who helped out on my other threads. Story is, this engine got run out of oil & number 8 rod came apart. I should have the crank out tomorrow to get a better view but this is what I can see so far. Any chance these bits can be saved? I'm pretty sure the crank is FUBAR but I don't know if that chip in the block (if that's all there is) is a killer or not.

Also, can anyone tell me what went on with the cylinder head? The other one looks about the same, all kinds of white crud on the plugs completely bridging at least one.

 

[tacoma]

Unless that is some super rare motor, I wouldn't bother. Machine work costs money, usable longblocks usually much less.

What is it?

 

[4X4HIGH]

It's a 4 bolt main 350. That cylinder is ok as long as it isn't cracked anywhere and even then it could be sleeved. If you're planning a full rebuild i would have the block checked further than bore it. The crank may be cheaper to buy an aftermarket crank from Scat or the like.

 

[Metalhead47]

It's a 4 bolt main 350. That cylinder is ok as long as it isn't cracked anywhere and even then it could be sleeved. If you're planning a full rebuild i would have the block checked further than bore it. The crank may be cheaper to buy an aftermarket crank from Scat or the like.

OK, that's encouraging at least. Once I get it completely stripped & cleaned up a little better I plan to get a complete check of the block at the machine shop of course. If the crank is scrap I'll probably lean more towards a 383 since it's being replaced anyway. Either way it's gonna be along time before my rig moved under it's own power again

 

[pauly383]

I'd toss those light heads for earlier castings too , and next time back the timing off a little

 

[4X4HIGH]

If you decide to build a 383 make sure the shop clearances the block for you otherwise you'll need to do it very carefully. You'll also need to balance the engine and you'll need clearance the rod bolts so they don't hit the cam lobes on cylinders 2 and 6 (you clearance all rods though to keep them in balance).

 

[Metalhead47]

I'd toss those light heads for earlier castings too , and next time back the timing off a little

I've read these later castings are junk. I've heard the Vortec heads/intake are a nice improvement, is that something I could get lucky on & find at the pullapart?

What more can you tell me about the timing being off? I've driven this rig a grand total of about 300 miles since I've owned it, & spent so much time fixing everything else I never got a chance to do basic stuff like checking the timing before it died. All I know is the disty hold down bolt was gorilla armed down however it was set.

 

[Metalhead47]

If you decide to build a 383 make sure the shop clearances the block for you otherwise you'll need to do it very carefully. You'll also need to balance the engine and you'll need clearance the rod bolts so they don't hit the cam lobes on cylinders 2 and 6 (you clearance all rods though to keep them in balance).

Oh I imagine I'll need plenty more help when it comes to working out the details of exactly what I'm doing with this thing. Still gotta come up with the cash to do ANYthing else at this pont . I wanted some input on whether the block was even worth lugging down to the machine shop before I throw my back out doing so. How much does a bare 350 block weigh anyhow?

 

[dyeager535]

Vortec heads are an improvement when looked at from a functional standpoint.

Unfortunately, they are pretty light castings. For injection, not a good choice if needing to keep emissions compliant. I don't think I'd trust wrecking yard ones really. Probably the only way I'd accept used Vortecs is if I could see/hear the engine run and knew it had no problems. Other "pecularities" to the Vortecs, like the rockers, cam lift limits, valve covers, and so on, but those are fairly minor. But it all does add up to additional cost.

 

[pauly383]

It just looked like the plugs in the middle of that head showed a little preignition ( the white crusty stuff all over the electrodes ) .

As for the block weight , a bare block can be lifted by one person , very low to the ground , with yourself grunting a lot . It isn't going to be pleasant . I say maybe 250-280 pounds just the block .

 

[Metalhead47]

It just looked like the plugs in the middle of that head showed a little preignition ( the white crusty stuff all over the electrodes ) .

As for the block weight , a bare block can be lifted by one person , very low to the ground , with yourself grunting a lot . It isn't going to be pleasant . I say maybe 250-280 pounds just the block .

OK not gonna be lifting the block then. That's almost as much as me

dyeager535: OK so n/m the vortech heads. What heads should I keep an eye out for that are inexpensive & simple to switch over? I don't have to worry about emissions right now but I *may* at some unspecified point in the distant future (or I'll just keep moving further & further out into the styx as the emissions test border encroaches)

 

[dyeager535]

Inexpensive for a truck? From the sounds of it the TBI heads ('193's?) are a good choice apparently.

Personally I'd save up and buy just about any aftermarket head that has a good combustion chamber design, keeps compression up around 9.5:1, and will allow you to bolt your existing manifold right to them.

But realistically I think you'd be into a set of aftermarket heads for at best $600. EQ cylinder heads, or whoever they are this week, might make some "fast burn" style combustion chambered heads that accomodate the TBI intake. They are relatively inexpensive when talking aftermarket heads.

When you start adding up all that you can possibly do to a set of used factory heads to get them to "brand new" condition, you start getting closer and closer to aftermarket head prices, which old factory heads will never approach in terms of total performance.