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Can't decide on how to finish my lift. 2" or 4" give me your two cents

Z

Zervun

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Well, I'm stuck in a half baked lift attempt and can't decide on how to finish and need some help.

I have a very stock 74' - with very original suspension

I have been fixing my steering (2x steering boxes...) and got it working. My drag link bolt end is dragging on my dana 44 slightly due to the springs being so old and bowed.

What I have purchased so far - this was hobbled together over the past year from reading

Everything is sitting in my garage not installed atm.

1" ORD body lift and bushings (it has on some poly Energy Suspension ones right now which are fine but I just want to replace everything when I put this in)

Front:
  • 2" EZ Rides Front
  • Matching Bilstein shocks (from the Bilstein website for 2" lift 21.54 in./13.58 in) http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bsn-33-185590
  • ORD greasable HD front shackles and bolts
  • ORD HD tie rod 1.5" and ends (Note will not even clear with my bent old front springs and worried even with the 2" EZs as it sits higher than the stock)
  • ORD steering box brace (It's already in)
  • Ruffcountry u-bolts and plates

Rear:

List I think I need -

New ubolts back
Greasable rear bushings
Rear spring replacement at some point - they are bad

I wasn't thinking the rake would be that much but after looking at pictures it might be.. The DIY ~ 4.5 and front are 2" - can't add an ez 1" to the front right?

I have more money to spend and can sell some items - goal was some lift, but still streetable and maybe to fit it into a garage. 33's or maybe 35's. See some offroad time not that often but want it.

Any help is appreciated! I'm unsure if I should get front to 4", sell 2" stuff. Sell rear shackles and got 2.5 shackles, or just EZ ride 2.5? 3? in the back
 
Carcinogen said:
You can use a zero rate in the front.

"[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Since these are a true bolt in leaf, they are safe to use on the front or rear suspension for extra ride height or to relocate the axle.[/FONT]"

http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/Zero%20Rates.htm
Click to expand...

Is this a good approach instead of just replacing front/back springs with the same height? ie ditching the flip in the back in favor of like some 3" ezs.

Does the front zero rate give any advantage? (other than leveling me out) - and on that should I shift the front forward if I have them 1"?

I did find this thread - which offered some insight http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=289220 - but doesn't necessarily give pros and cons.

The other thing I'm worried about is I have 2" 5125's up front and this would be adding an inch, probably putting me in another pickle.
 
I think the ez inch would actually be the preferred method here. I think the wheel needs moved forward just for looks and it should still retain a slight rake. I like a slight rake.

Put it all in see if you like it and then if you don't get the ez inch :D
 
Depends, a 2" lift you dont have to mess with dropped pitman arms or lowering trans case or deal with brake lines.

With a 4" lift you need dropped pitman arm, drop the Tcase so your not over extending the drive shafts and it would be wise to get lower brake lines.
 
badmix said:
Depends, a 2" lift you dont have to mess with dropped pitman arms or lowering trans case or deal with brake lines.

With a 4" lift you need dropped pitman arm, drop the Tcase so your not over extending the drive shafts and it would be wise to get lower brake lines.
Click to expand...
Dropping the t-case makes your front driveline angle worse, FYI...
 
but isnt it necessary for taller lifts? I was always under the impression you have to lower it so you avoid drastic driveline angles.
 
badmix said:
but isnt it necessary for taller lifts? I was always under the impression you have to lower it so you avoid drastic driveline angles.
Click to expand...

It's a way to do it, but most will tell you that to do it right you need to angle the pinion up and go with a CV shaft. If you angle the transfer down too much, it messes up the angle on the front shaft, and then you have to shim the pinion or move the perches to align it right. Since your steering is on the front axle, that's another issue that has to be considered if you mess with the front.

Welcome to the world of lifting short-wheelbase trucks. Some people have no problems with a regular shaft and no TC drop on a 4 inch lift, others like me get fed up with vibrations and shaft angles and angle the pinion up and buy a CV shaft.
 
paratrooper307 said:
It's a way to do it, but most will tell you that to do it right you need to angle the pinion up and go with a CV shaft. If you angle the transfer down too much, it messes up the angle on the front shaft, and then you have to shim the pinion or move the perches to align it right. Since your steering is on the front axle, that's another issue that has to be considered if you mess with the front.

Welcome to the world of lifting short-wheelbase trucks. Some people have no problems with a regular shaft and no TC drop on a 4 inch lift, others like me get fed up with vibrations and shaft angles and angle the pinion up and buy a CV shaft.
Click to expand...

Ok. gotcha..I only went with a 2" lift and didnt have any of the usual "lift" issues.
 
Yeah, with two inches you won't have to do anything. On K5's, 4 inches and up is when you start having to look at various measures in order to make the lift work properly.
 
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