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Can't get tire off of truck...lol

tRustyK5

tRustyK5

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Steel ralley rim with a 31 on it...all the lug nuts off and no joy. I sprayed an assload of WD40 through all the lug holes, plus in through the back hoping some makes it to the wheel mating surface. i've spent the last 15 minutes with a 13 lb sledge hammer, it's just mocking me at this point.

Fair guess that it's rusted on but good. Also fair to say that particular ralley rim has turned it's last revolution as it is now quite bent. Good thing I have 10 others to choose from.

Any suggestions that don't involve plastic explosives, or driving on it with no lug nuts?

Rene
 
I've had some stubborn aluminum rims before...but never a steel wheel, and never this 'stuck'. Usually a good kick and they let loose.

Rene
 
I've run into this before on a few trucks, most of them were being scrapped or didn't run. If there are holes in the rim, run a chain through it and give it a tug with another vehicle. Use common sense here. Sometimes heating with a torch will help too.
 
ryoken said:
BFH....... break out the sledge...
Click to expand...

i've spent the last 15 minutes with a 13 lb sledge hammer,
Click to expand...

Rim is now FUBAR, and still firmly attached to the truck. I'm letting the WD40 soak for a bit, then heading back out to beat on it some more.

Rene
 
MY stepside was like that, i did all the same, sprayed it, sledged it. Then i had it up on the jack, sprayed it with a half of a can of pb blaster and kept hammering away. I figured screw it the wheels junk anyway just keep ritating it and hammering . Eventually it will budge. If you drive it a few feet might work also but if it budges it could wreck the studs, i would drive far enuff for it to come off...lol. Good luck, its a bitch.
 
toomany said:
I've run into this before on a few trucks, most of them were being scrapped or didn't run. If there are holes in the rim, run a chain through it and give it a tug with another vehicle. Use common sense here. Sometimes heating with a torch will help too.
Click to expand...

No... torch, welder, heat are not options. Someone posted a vid about a reaction within the tire with even just a small amount of spot heat. Even with the valve stem removed and at 0 psi the heat reaction within the tire expands the air too fast for the valve stem to relieve and eventually the tire blows up violently.

It's a rally, and it does have holes but nothing large enough to get a chain or anything through.

I wanted a big steel wedge from my shop, but I've since found an extremely large and agitated bee's nest right above the only door into it. gonna have to smoke them out soon...but not today.

Rene
 
Gonna pull the center cap and see if it's just massively scaled up in the center or something.

Back for an update in a while.

Rene
 
You did jack the truck up, right? Just sayin, sometimes the solution is painstakingly obvious............


I had a rim do this one time and I put the lug nuts back on, but somewhat loose. Drive the truck forward and backwards (if possible), smashing the brakes as you stop. The rotational force will break the rust loose, but the lugnuts will keep the rim from falling off and damaging the studs.

Means you'll have to air up the tire if you can.
 
the only thing that worked for me, was a sledge from the backside for about 30 minutes per side with a lot of pb blaster... I was definately contemplating cutting the rim off with a grinder lol..my rims were on there since 1982 according to the po.
 
OK, I got it off. It's a ralley rim, so the center cap bolts on with three 5/16" bolts. I removed the cap and used the bolts to push the rim off the drum face. I tightened up the bolts as much as i dared, then hit the inner part of the rim with a smaller hammer. Then tighten the bolts up a bit more, seeing as they were all loose now.

Definitely hub centric on the 1/2 ton stuff...kinda weird.

Rene
 
I had this happen a long time ago with my old CJ7 with Scout II Dana 44s. Was a rear wheel. Chrome wagon wheels.

I beat on the wheel with a dead blow... even drove a little with the lug nuts loose, etc.

What actually got it off... a BIG friend of mine sat facing the wheel, on the ground, and took out all 21 years of frustration kicking it. :haha:

Came loose.
 
Took a break from body work today and did something a bit more 'fun'.

011.jpg


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013.jpg


I didn't want to go bigger than 33's, but around here as soon as a used set get's posted up every dink with a Jeep, Sami, or Toy jumps all over them like flies on sh!t. These are 35 x 12.5 Cooper MT's on good clean ralley I picked up for $275. Roughly 40-50% tread, no plugs or patches or cuts.

So, now I'm into this for $1175.00

Gonna do a homebrew 4" flip in the rear, 3" TC EZ rides up front...then find a way to mount up my 14.5" Bilsteins. :haha:

I have them, i like them, and I will run them dammit!

Rene
 
Looks good, with 35s on ralleys. Cooper mts seem to be a decent tire. Seems like your getting the body all fixed up also you do some really nice work.
 
Yeah but people wont believe its a Jeep if it doesnt have 33's on it :D

Standard issue, like a short skirt on a bar fly!
 
cybrfire said:
cut the ubolts and get rid of the axle. The stuck wheel problem will disappear.:D
Click to expand...

No way man...I'm sticking with the swanky 1/2 ton diffs this time. Just need to make a few upgrades, specifically everything inside the 10 bolts. :haha:

Rene
 
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