Car won't start - electrical issues

[father-son]

Okay, my son and I are trying to get his 86 Blazer started. For a couple of weeks, the starter would just click and nothing would happen. I put a new battery in and that didn't help. Today, I cleaned the battery terminals, tightened the cables from the battery to the starter, and finally got it started (so, something was apparently loose). I ran it for about 15 minutes, shut it off, and waited 15 mins to see what would happen.

Now, even if I try to jump start it - the headlights will come on, but the ammeter doesn't register any power. This is totally different than what it was doing - before, it would always register power, but the starter would just click. Now, there is just no power registering.

Any suggestions - 10 weeks before he turns 16, so trying to get this car on the road.

 

[MJB774X]

get new cables, and check your grounds... motor to frame, frame to body and so on, could also be the switch on the steering column under the dash that the key moves

 

[MJB774X]

one quick thing you can do is take some jumper cables, and connect the neg on the battery and the engine block to see if the neg cable is bad

 

[chulisohombre]

check power at the s terminal on the starter.that is what powers the solenoid to turn the engine over.sounds like the starter is going bad.definitely recheck your cables and grounds.maybe rotted wiring inside the rubber on the battery cables.ive had them corrode inside the rubber on the cables and looked good outside but wouldnt give full voltage to the starter.also check the wiring to the junction block next to the battery as well.

 

[Jessie James]

You may also have a bad starter solenoid. They are usually $15 and pretty easy to replace. I am not sure how to test the solenoid, though.

 

[father-son]

Thanks so much guys - I will start working on the things you've suggested and let you know what happens. I searched the forum for a while, and couldn't find anyone having the same problem, so this is helpful.

 

[Fordum]

You need to pick up a voltmeter. It doesn't have to be expensive, but digital is nice.
There are lots of tests we can talk you through if you have one.

Speaking of voltmeters.....
Most of those trucks had a voltmeter in the dash instead of an ammeter. I'm pretty sure that is what you have, since an ammeter would not show when you just turn the key on. Make sure which you have. A voltmeter will go from about 9 to 18.
Is there anything else in the truck that is key controlled? Radio, fan? That is not a perfect test for the switch, but it might help isolate the problem.

If the headlights will not come on unless you jump it, you need to address the battery issues first.
Either charge it or replace it. It can send you down blind alleys when you start trouble shooting if its not fully charged and ready.

 

[diesel4me]

Sounds to me like a fusible link might be fried,and is only letting a trickle of current pass thru it some of the time...there is two of them in the thick red wires that bolt to the starter under the positive batt cable,and another up on the firewall near the power brake booster...

 

[chulisohombre]

You may also have a bad starter solenoid. They are usually $15 and pretty easy to replace. I am not sure how to test the solenoid, though.

you can always jump it with a screwdriver and see if it will engage or not,or make a positive jumper wire from the battery and touch it to the s spot on the solenoid.that would eliminate and diagnose a ignition switch and wiring issue as well

 

[father-son]

Thanks for the tips - I must say, I'm learning a lot, but not sure I needed a car that would give me this much of an education, this fast. Should have learned this stuff long ago.

Anyway, today I replaced the positive cable (it looked old and worn) running from the battery to the solenoid, and replaced a 40 amp fuse that runs to the solenoid on a black cable. I jumped the car, got it running, but apparently, starting the car fried the new fuse.

So, with this new information, what's a likely cause?

Thanks

 

[Jessie James]

A 40 amp fuse blown to the solenoid? I would venture a guess that the solenoid is bad. You can probably buy a new one for $20 or so, and it's a simple enough swap out - just the wires and usually two bolts.

Personally, I remove the whole starter and then the solenoid, then bolt it back onto the truck since sometimes it's easier to get to on some vehicles with the starter out.

 

[father-son]

Thanks - Yes, the solenoid still clicked yesterday, just took a few seconds to get started. I didn't think about removing the whole starter though, that's a good tip. The engine has headers around the solenoid/starter, so there's not a lot of room there.

 

[Jessie James]

Thanks - Yes, the solenoid still clicked yesterday, just took a few seconds to get started. I didn't think about removing the whole starter though, that's a good tip. The engine has headers around the solenoid/starter, so there's not a lot of room there.

My thought is that the heat has damaged the solenoid (happened to me before) which causes it to either stick (hard to start, excess draw) or not disengage (will drain your battery). If you put a new one on, put a heat shield between the headers and the starter. It just has to be a piece of metal to deflect the direct heat.