CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

carb rebuild kit...

Never seen a bad float, but I doubt it's ever physically obvious....they aren't hollow, they aren't subjected to sharp objects, so to be physically damaged would be an oddity for sure.

Only thing I've ever heard mentioned is that they can "absorb" gas in some cases, which means of course the float won't work right, but I don't see how you could test that beforehand.
 
alright I will assume its okay then. From what your describing it sounds rare for a float to go bad.
Thanks.
Went to pick up the kit today and when i phoned they said they had it, went there after school and now they don;t...so I have to go on Saturday to pick it up.
I ended up getting some carb cleaner though...just 1 spray can, cost 6 bucks! And it was a "cheaper" kind. I wanted the spray can, so i guess I paid for that...

Another question, is there anything on the exterior of the carb I should spray (besides the electrical plugs) with carb cleaner to start cleaning it? Or should I just wait until it's dissasembled to clean the pieces?

Thanks!
 
I didn't chime in before, but I like using a tub with a bit of paint thinner in it, and a stiff bristled brush. You can get a lot of the stuff off that gets your hands dirty that way, then when you get it broken down into pieces you can get real precise on cleaning. Besides, paint thinner is cheap.

My experience has been that most crud buildup on the exterior of the Q-jet is an aesthetic issue which doesn't affect functioning. The PCV passages inside the carb on the other hand, well, you'll see.

They make carb cleaner that comes in a paint can like setup, with a screen tray to soak stuff in, but I don't think they are big enough to soak the major parts in. My dad used one of those and the solvent seemed pretty aggressive, but I don't mind just using paint thinner and a stiff brush. Screwdriver to scrape if it's really hard to get off. (like the carbon buildup inside)
 
Stave... you can test the float by letting it sit in a can of gas overnite.. still floating, its good.. in probably 50 or so times, i've never seen a bad phenolic.. i have seen bad brass ones tho... i've heard it said that the brass "perform" better, but i'd doubt that...
 
Alright when I get it disassembled I will test the float, thanks for the tip ryoken.

Dorian, I'll dig out a tub and use paint thinner to clean it off. Thanks.
 
weigh it....

We used to sell a "float scale" in Filko brand at the parts store--they use them to weigh the float,and the specs are compared to the weight of the floats listed in their illustrated parts catolog-(it measures the weight in grams)-any "heavier" than normal meant a soggy float,(in the case of the foam type used in Q-jets often)--the brass floats had weights listed too,but usually a leaky brass float will have gas inside it,and is easily detected---you can submerge a brass float in hot water and watch for bubbles to detect leaks too...I found it cheaper to just buy the float,rather than buy the scale--and then find out its junk,and have to buy the float too!.. :blush:

The "float scales" were mostly sold to teen agers or young adults in their 20's!--my boss suspected they weren't measuring floats with them,since his friend who was a police officer found one on one kid who was in possesion of illegal drugs..so he raised the price from 12.99 to 20 bucks,and I remember having to hide them under the cash drawer,because if we left them on display with all the other tools,they'ed grow legs!....I often wondered how many people really measured a float with them... :crazy:
 
That's too bad those people had to use/steal them and use them for illegal stuff.
Us gearheads have better uses for them!!
 
dyeager535 said:
I didn't chime in before, but I like using a tub with a bit of paint thinner in it, and a stiff bristled brush. You can get a lot of the stuff off that gets your hands dirty that way, then when you get it broken down into pieces you can get real precise on cleaning. Besides, paint thinner is cheap.

My experience has been that most crud buildup on the exterior of the Q-jet is an aesthetic issue which doesn't affect functioning. The PCV passages inside the carb on the other hand, well, you'll see.

They make carb cleaner that comes in a paint can like setup, with a screen tray to soak stuff in, but I don't think they are big enough to soak the major parts in. My dad used one of those and the solvent seemed pretty aggressive, but I don't mind just using paint thinner and a stiff brush. Screwdriver to scrape if it's really hard to get off. (like the carbon buildup inside)

True the gallon carb cleaner such as chem dip will not fit the three major body sections of the qjet. At best 1/4 will fit in the can. I like the sugestion of using paint thinner as it is cheaper. How good does it work at eating the deposits?

Also to add the stiff bristled brush should not be steal as it will scratch what ever finish is on the carb. This would not effect performance however.
 
I always see the "rebuilt" carbs looking like they have been painted. I know some have the chemical finish, but is there a way to paint the carb to help keep it clean and looking good?
 
carbs can be painted... marine merc and crusader q-jets are often painted...
 
Cool, I was thinking of doing it in black or maybe Chevy orange high temp engine paint just for the hell of it.
 
Top Bottom