Carb/timing questions?

[dabomb6608]

Ok so i have been trying to get my truck running good for a while now and still cant figure some stuff out so here it goes.
First off when cold starting in cold weather 32ish i pump it twice then turn it over and it starts and i will put pressure on the gas and then a second later it dies. Turn it over and it starts right up and if i keep pressure on the gas it will stay running then mayb a minute after keeping it at 1400-2000rpms i can let off and it will idle. Then whenever i am driving and it warms up completely it starts to have a dead kinda stall moment whenever im at a stop sign and then go to take off. I have to tap the gas and then i can hit it again to go...The longer i sit the worse it is and sometimes will stall and shutdown. It also seems like it doesnt have much power until higher rpms but could just b me...
Sorry for it being so long but want to be detaild as can b without blabbering.
SO my questinos are should i look at carb settings and timing and if so should i be advancing the timing or retarding. and which way should i be messing with the adjustment screws on the carb
BTW its a 305 1985 with a quadrajet carb without the emmisions crap(egr and all that stuff)

 

[76zimmer]

I had the same in my 85.
First check the choke operation.
Second what emissions "crap" was taken off, and how were the routing of vacuum, and electrical hookups handled for the removed equip.
Third check the timing for ESC (electronic spark control) malfunction. This will appear as the engine retards itself, while at 2000 rpm. You will see it (and hear it) with a timing light on the timing marks. If it is retarding under no load, the computer controlling the spark timing is bad. This can be bypassed if its the case.
Fourth my intake manifold was cracked on the underside below the carb. this give the syptoms of cold start choke not operating correctly, and also the engine was using a noticeable increase in oil consumption.

 

[dabomb6608]

As far as i no the choke works, it has one of those little thermal black coil thnigs.
Pretty much everything emmisions wise is gone. The computer might as well not b there considering there is a different distributor that doesnt hook up to the 4prong deally that goes into the firewall. For vacuum we have the power brakes out the back of the carb then one of the vacuum ports on the front of the carb is used for vacuum advance(dont no if this was done right) and then from straight manifold vaccum we have the interior stuff and some other vacuum solenoid thingy on the driverside firewall behind were a cruise control would b. On the subject of the ESC i dont no much about it and thought that with there being a different distributor that it wouldnt affect anything. Also the intake is a performance truck manifold that was in pretty good condition just layin around at my dads. so no cracks that i no of

 

[76zimmer]

the choke should close with the engine cool. If you adjust the black choke spring cover you can see when it closes and you should set it so it just closes with the engine cool. Adjust it to that, and if you turn the cover to open the butterfly, it should start to open within about 3 points on that cover. If its more than that, your linkage may be binding up.

 

[dabomb6608]

ok wat cover are u talking about?

 

[dabomb6608]

this morning i checked the choke and it does activate whenever u stomp the gas once b4 starting...Last night i turnd the distributor counterclock wise(advancing it i assume) a bit and it is runing tons better so i think that was the main problem.

 

[paratrooper307]

Mine had some of the same issues, it would fire instantly, but you needed to hold the accelerator for about 10 seconds before it would idle, and it would idle slow (400 rpm, with a cam) until it warmed up. Adjusting the idle screw by the choke helped out. Check for vacuum and make sure the timing is good, those two items can cause a lot of idle and driveability issues,

 

[diesel4me]

You should run a regular HEI distributor with a 4 prong module,without the "EST" ,using one with it unplugged, is likely to cause driveability issues and performance and mileage will suffer some ...your net getting the full advance and spark control if the EST is unplugged...the fact advancing the timing helped is a indiaction this needs to be corrected..then you can mess with the fuel and choke and really get it dialed in better..

 

[454Sub]

Correct me if im wrong, but that choke would use a 12vt ignition only hot wire to get, and remain hot enough to stay open. Engine temp has nothing to do with it. Unless its one that uses intake manifold temp to warm up. Also on that choke, some wires use 12vt, and they taper off a bit after awhile for whatever reason, so make sure its a CONSTANT 12vt all the time once the ignition is keyed over, or the choke will slowly shut again, We fought an old mud truck all summer one year until we finally checked that. Winter blends of fuel could be causing all that too, if its still available in your area.

 

[dabomb6608]

Well idk if anyone realized but this post is like 2 years old. Thanks for the responses though. It currently hasn't been driven since summer due to me not needing it. But it runs pretty decent when it gets ran. Has a different motor in it after the old 305 spun a rod bearing. Has a 87 350 from a vette in it now.