Carrier swap questions

[Russell]

Hey guys!

The gov bomb that I currently have in my 14 bolt rear is not in very good shape. It doesn't work the way it should, so I want to do a carrier swap on it.

Now, I plan on using the same gearset, but want to swap a different, low milage, un-abused gov lock into its place. What all will be involved as far as new parts go? I need to pull the front pinion off so I can replace that seal, and clear out the bailing string thats stuck in there as well.

I've never ventured into a diff before, so I am not quite exactly sure what I'm getting myself into here. Since I am using the same type of carrier, and the same ring gear, will I need to set the gears up as well? Whats involved with doing that?

 

[dyeager535]

Not to be insulting, but how is the gov-lock not working right?

Hate to see you to go through all that work only to find out it's working right, just not the way you want it to.

 

[randy88k5]

Well, you will need to run a pattern to make sure everything stayed kosher. The shims, well adjusters on a 14bff, are for variations in manufacturing. Nothing is exactly the same as the next, just equivilant to within a certain tolerance. The gears, carrier, bearings, and housing are all made alike, but to make up for variations in different machines, things are left to be adjusted.

When you put a new carrier in, it might be made slightly different than the old one. So, yes, you might need to adjust things to make them work properly.

Im in the middle of gear swaps right now, and I found that either the ring gear or the carrier (or both) were not true on the old setup, so the pattern wandered around on the gear face. Its possible your old gears will not work with the new carrier.

If you do indeed swap the carrier, be it a go-loc or any other, you will want a master install kit too. Getting the old bearings off the carrier is a messy job. Try to index the ring and pinion, so the same teeth make contact after the swap. I didnt index mine because im using a new gearset.

14BFF is not hard to setup, due to the fact shims are replaced by threaded adjusters, and the pinion comes out in a sealed unit almost like a mini-thirdmember. Just take some time with it to make sure it is done right.

IMHO, I would not run a gov-lock. Too many bad stories around them. Get a posi, detroit, or just leave it open. But, obvously, its your choice.

 

[Russell]

The gov lock that I have does attempt to lock, but the clutches are badly worn out. When I spin a wheel quickly in one direction, the diff makes a clicking noise, and the other tire stops, and spins in the same direction slightly. If a guy sticks a log infront of that tire to stop it, there is no resistance to turning it, and the gov lock unit makes a rubbing noise.

The other diff on the other hand, give it a spin, it clicks, and the other tire immediately locks in, and spins the same amount as the one you are turning, and if you stick a log infront of the tire, you cannot spin the other tire anymore.

So, all I want to do is pull the carrier out, pull the pinion out, replace the pinion seal, install it back exactly where it was before (scratch the housing to make sure) then swap ring gears between the two carriers (same ratio, but I hear that rings and pinions are matched sets) then put the new carrier back in. If it takes some minor adjustment to get the gear meshing just right with those adjustment nuts, thats not such a big deal, but other than that, I personally can't think of much that'd mess me up, right?

 

[Russell]

Well, you will need to run a pattern to make sure everything stayed kosher. The shims, well adjusters on a 14bff, are for variations in manufacturing. Nothing is exactly the same as the next, just equivilant to within a certain tolerance. The gears, carrier, bearings, and housing are all made alike, but to make up for variations in different machines, things are left to be adjusted.

When you put a new carrier in, it might be made slightly different than the old one. So, yes, you might need to adjust things to make them work properly.

Im in the middle of gear swaps right now, and I found that either the ring gear or the carrier (or both) were not true on the old setup, so the pattern wandered around on the gear face. Its possible your old gears will not work with the new carrier.

If you do indeed swap the carrier, be it a go-loc or any other, you will want a master install kit too. Getting the old bearings off the carrier is a messy job. Try to index the ring and pinion, so the same teeth make contact after the swap. I didnt index mine because im using a new gearset.

14BFF is not hard to setup, due to the fact shims are replaced by threaded adjusters, and the pinion comes out in a sealed unit almost like a mini-thirdmember. Just take some time with it to make sure it is done right.

IMHO, I would not run a gov-lock. Too many bad stories around them. Get a posi, detroit, or just leave it open. But, obvously, its your choice.

Well, I hope that my carrier isn't messed up, lol

I don't really beat on my trucks too much, so the gov lock should be fine in my application. That, and I only have the two 14 bolts, both gov locks. I thought about going with an open carrier, but I think that the gov lock is about what I need. Something that will lock up when I am on an icy road and trying to get started off a red light or something. Everyone has told me to get a detroit, but I think that'd be a bit dangerous for what I use my truck for. I don't have any intention of crawling around on rocks, nor do I need my truck to be having that little "swerve" whenever you are taking off after going around a corner, thats a great way to end up in the ditch...

 

[dyeager535]

I've done three carrier swaps using the original ring/pinion. (two 10 bolts, 1 14SF)

One went horribly wrong, howled in gear. Had to go back through it and set it up as if it were brand new.

The other two went together fine (checked pattern before/after swap) and knock on wood, have had no problems.

But as mentioned, there are quite a few machined surfaces which all have tolerances, just one of those being different will throw everything off. Doesn't hurt to try, but I'd pattern it before and after: if much difference, and it makes any sort of noise, I'd go back through the whole thing immediately. I know lack of noise doesn't mean things can't still be wrong, but it's an obvious indication of a problem. If the pattern looks good and the gears don't howl, I'd say run it.

 

[Russell]

Sounds about like I was thinking...

I mean, the old open 14 bolt I used to have had a pinion slapped into it from another diff without even opening the back cover, it lasted for over 40 000 km, never made a noise either. It just clunked into gear real bad all the time. Never got any better or worse either. As far as I know, the guy who has that diff now has never had any trouble yet either, and has put a lotta miles on it.

We'll see how it goes. I mean, the indicator goop is cheap enough, no reason why I shouldn't go and get some and take a look.