Caster/Camber Alignment Bushing

[otterby]

I have an '89 K5. I recently installed new ball joints and tie rod ends. When I got it aligned the shop told me it would cost about and extra $150 to adjust the camber and caster and they'd have to order the correct bushings. They gave me a printout that I've attached and told me it was easy just to follow the instructions. My problem is the the printout picture doesnt match the bushing that I purchased and the instructions are no help. I assumed that the slot in the bushing woluld be in the thin part where the blue line is refrencing. The slot however is the area of about middle thickness. Do I put the thin part of the bushing at 214 degrees (blue line) like the picture shows or do I put the slot at 214 degrees? Also, I assume that 0 degrees is pointed toward the diff?

 

[bigred88]

I wasn't aware there was a lot of caster or camber adjustment possible or necessary with a solid front axle. When I redid my front end (new ball joints, tie rod ends, bearings and axle u joints), I measured the distance from the center of the bolt on the tie rod ends before, and made the new one match. I've been driving it for months now, no in shop alignment, no messing with caster or camber, no noticeable issues, and no strange or premature tire wear.

 

[otterby]

The caster and camber is adjusted by placing and offset sleeve in place of the centering sleeve on the top ball joint. The rest of the alignment is good but it tends to wander some, I'm hoping adjusting the caster/camber makes it better. I'm just not positive which way to put the sleeve in to match the printout from the aligment machine. If I put it in wrong I'm going to make it worse than it is now. I'd go back to the alignment shop and ask them but I dont think they know any more than what the computer tells them.

 

[jeff in co]

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=282020

I replace my ball joints and also played around with the tapered sleeve you are talking about. Here is the thread I did awhile back.

I basically did a trial and error until I got it as close as I could. I found a shop that gave me alignment specs for $10 a shot. I did it 3 or 4 times and got it as close as possible.

It did help but don't expect HUGE changes. The end result was a little better than before. One thing I noticed is that the end result had both front tires tilted outwards (on top). Looks a little goofy but it does drive more solid.

Good luck......

 

[sweetk30]

show me a print out of the alignment as it was on the rack .

and the bushing you got looks like a ford twin ibeam bushing and wont work for your stuff.

also the bushing design we need is a pita to put in and set and get correct preload on the upper ball joint.

the best way is to do a shim between the spindle and knuckle.

but if caster / camber are good for cross spec and camber not way out just set toe and let it roll for these old girls.

any lift / degree shims / or worn spring bushings in your truck ? that will play with the angles.

 

[otterby]

I've attached the alignment sheet and the sheets for the camber and caster. Is it even worth messing with? I'm not sure what the cross spec is on the camber/caster. It has new 2" lift springs with new bushings.

 

[K85 Octane]

I have no idea what I'm reading in that first PDF lol, but the second makes more sense. Your caster looks good @ 6.5, could go to 7or8 but only of the truck likes to wonder on the street. The camber looks good too, both nearly the same. If you want to get them spot on, you need to order some ~.7 degree shims that go between the knuckle and spindle like sweetk30 said. Those are the easiest and (IMO) best way to set camber.

Honestly, I set my front end up with some straight edges, tape measure, and digital angle finder from OSH. Drives good up to 80mph.

 

[otterby]

Where can I find those shims? And I assume the top gets shimmed out?

 

[jeff in co]

Camber Rings

http://www.4x4review.com/Features/Tech/IngallsAlignmentShims/tabid/813/Default.aspx

 

[ChadRay13]

Honestly, after looking at your spec sheet, I wouldn't mess with it. The only thing id adjust is the toe. Those shims are not always an exact science and a lot of time turn into a trial and error thing. pulling the hub/spindle off repeatedly would get aggravating.

The camber is only .2 off from each side. Which is not really bad. If it was say .5 off and the left was at .4 then Id adjust it because it would make the truck drift left.

The caster is dead even which is great. The only thing that can be bad from that is that its sitting a little less positive. If you lifted the truck with out correcting it then you could wander into wobble. Some one may pipe in but if you have wiggle room with your drive line you could try the small shims at the leafs to give it more positive caster.

Your toe is a hair off. If the steering wheel was straight the last toe set and it hasn't been adjusted since, I'd go on a hunch to say it's cocked a hair to the right while driving.

Like what was mentioned before, make sure everything else is completely tight and greased or each time its put on the rack you will get different specs.

 

[sweetk30]

looking at that print out ( best way for a shop to print it also )

SET THE TOE AND LET IT GO

all cross specs good and super close . run it and be fine.

put your hard earned money on some real goodys for the rig.

 

[K85 Octane]

I run the hard plastic camber shims from rockauto. They sandwich between two very thick pieces of steel, so their gtg. My passenger side was way off, about a degree different from the driver. Ended up ordering for both to get them as perfect as possible. I think one side needed 5/8 degree while the other was closer to 1 1/2 degree. My toe is 1/4" in @ 48".

 

[919jackass]

let it ride !!!! mine is very close to the same. we have two alignment racks where i work so it doesn't cost me anything i'm not doing anything to mine it tracks straight so i let is go down the road.