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Changing dual saddle tanks to single inboard tank (NOT Blazer/Suburban) any info???

blowedupmotor87

blowedupmotor87

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I'm sure it has been done plenty of times BUT, i have searched with no luck. Has anybody gone from a dual saddle tank setup to a single inboard tank in front of the rear axle? (a pickup tank from 1988+, NOT an aft axle Blazer/Suburban tank) Would be done on an 80's crew cab that'll be going under the knife for a shortbed conversion. Thanks!!! :popcorn:
 
Fwiw, in the 90's GM did a recall on the square body trucks converting the saddle tanks to an inboard tank like you described (as a result of a class action suit). I have no idea if they'd still do it but you might find some info on the net and maybe a part number for the conversion parts.
 
nvrenuf said:
Fwiw, in the 90's GM did a recall on the square body trucks converting the saddle tanks to an inboard tank like you described (as a result of a class action suit). I have no idea if they'd still do it but you might find some info on the net and maybe a part number for the conversion parts.
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:haha:WHAT??? in the world are you talking about? Yes, there was a class action law suit related to side saddle tanks but it ended up that owners received a $500 voucher to place towards the purchase of new GM vehicle. This was back in the mid/late 90's when I worked for Chevrolet Motor Division in the Customer Assistance Center where we received thousands of calls a day on this topic.

Where in the world did you come up with the idea there was a recall to relocate the tanks? :dunno:
 
That would be awesome if they did, I never have heard of that recall before though, and we had 2 side saddle tank trucks when I was growing up. Both (I think) were bought before I was born and we had them until '97. (a 74 and a 79 and I think they were both bought new, the 79 just a few months before I was born)

Would the 88+ pickup tank work? Or would something smaller like the tank of a Toyota pickup or maybe even a 4 door JK fit better? Anybody done an inboard swap???

I am assuming the side saddle tank itself would be too large to be moved inboard on a shortened wheel base, correct? (length might work but, it would be too wide to fit between the frame rail and the driveshaft, wouldn't it?
 
problem is 34" frame width outside . I don't know of any off the shelf tanks that would be close to fit and clear exhaust and drive shaft room / space .

why ditch them ? there not that bad . and the impact blow up was busted and proved to be rigged .

88-up body style ballooned out the frames under the cab all the way to the back . got to 47" wide if I recall.
 
sweetk30 said:
problem is 34" frame width outside . I don't know of any off the shelf tanks that would be close to fit and clear exhaust and drive shaft room / space .

why ditch them ? there not that bad . and the impact blow up was busted and proved to be rigged .

88-up body style ballooned out the frames under the cab all the way to the back . got to 47" wide if I recall.
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That's what I figured (width wise) thanks!!! I will have to ditch the original ones anyway, will be chopping the wheelbase down. Figured since I couldn't run the originals I might as well go to inboard mount while I am at it. I guess I will peruse the junkyard and see if maybe 'Yota mini truck, S-10, or Ranger tank might have dimensions that will work. Was just hoping someone had a thread about it so I would have something to go off!!!

Contemplating dual tanks of a different sort than the factory setup-
both fillers on one side (driver's side)
front inboard tank (the one in question!)
rear aft axle tank from a YJ or TJ so that I can still eventually fit a rear winch
 
Trouble with any non GM tank will be sending units,your gas gauge wont work right unless it happens to match the same ohms a GM one has..

Perhaps you can find a marine tank or universal one that is long and skinny enough to mount inboard of the frame rails,that has a compatible sending unit..
A older G series van tank might fit in the rear between the rails..
 
diesel4me said:
Trouble with any non GM tank will be sending units,your gas gauge wont work right unless it happens to match the same ohms a GM one has..

Perhaps you can find a marine tank or universal one that is long and skinny enough to mount inboard of the frame rails,that has a compatible sending unit..
A older G series van tank might fit in the rear between the rails..
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Could I not make a mount for the stock sending unit on the new tank? Should just be cutting the proper size hole and making a ring that matches how the GM mounts and welding it on, right? (assuming the tank depth is similar (and the tank will be steam cleaned prior to make sure NO fumes, don't want to blow myself up, LOL!)) Or is there something I am missing?
 
blowedupmotor87 said:
Could I not make a mount for the stock sending unit on the new tank? Should just be cutting the proper size hole and making a ring that matches how the GM mounts and welding it on, right? (assuming the tank depth is similar (and the tank will be steam cleaned prior to make sure NO fumes, don't want to blow myself up, LOL!)) Or is there something I am missing?
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Its not exactly that simple. You would be better off just buying an after market 0-90ohm tube style sender and putting it in the tank. They make them in all different depths.

As far as welding on a gas tank just fill it with soapy water, drain it, and then purge it with shielding gas before welding it.

I might of missed it but why are you looking to do this?
 
Stomis said:
Its not exactly that simple. You would be better off just buying an after market 0-90ohm tube style sender and putting it in the tank. They make them in all different depths.

As far as welding on a gas tank just fill it with soapy water, drain it, and then purge it with shielding gas before welding it.

I might of missed it but why are you looking to do this?
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1) Going to have to ditch the stock long bed tanks when chopping the wheelbase down. Not hugely enamored with side saddle tanks anyway so, why not inboard rather than buying new shortbed saddle tanks? (plus, not sure even shortbed saddle tanks would fit)

2) Wanting to run dual tanks (on midship, one aft axle) and have both fillers on the same side.

3) Also, the saddle tanks are rather more vulnerable to hits since most terrain I am on I will be scraping the frame and rockers with the long (still long even after chop) wheelbase. I am actually contemplating cutting the rockers out and putting rectangular tube in their place to rid the truck of rocker rot, gain more clearance, and gain strength. Whether I go that route will depend on how rotted the rockers and floorboards look after I gut the interior and clean the underside. I would like to retain the stock rockers and run sliders under them but, if they are badly rotted they are getting the ax. I would contemplate boatsiding (the clearance would be nice) BUT, typically not too enamored with the looks, don't want to remove THAT much more body, and don't want to lose foot room. (size 14 shoes and a stick shift) An inboard tank will at least be more protected from hitting stuff that is outside the frame's width, which would be help enough. (a LOT of the trails I wheel on were designed more with Jeep widths in mind AND a lot of the people I wheel with are in Jeeps)
 
blowedupmotor87 said:
1) Going to have to ditch the stock long bed tanks when chopping the wheelbase down. Not hugely enamored with side saddle tanks anyway so, why not inboard rather than buying new shortbed saddle tanks? (plus, not sure even shortbed saddle tanks would fit)

2) Wanting to run dual tanks (on midship, one aft axle) and have both fillers on the same side.

3) Also, the saddle tanks are rather more vulnerable to hits since most terrain I am on I will be scraping the frame and rockers with the long (still long even after chop) wheelbase. I am actually contemplating cutting the rockers out and putting rectangular tube in their place to rid the truck of rocker rot, gain more clearance, and gain strength. Whether I go that route will depend on how rotted the rockers and floorboards look after I gut the interior and clean the underside. I would like to retain the stock rockers and run sliders under them but, if they are badly rotted they are getting the ax. I would contemplate boatsiding (the clearance would be nice) BUT, typically not too enamored with the looks, don't want to remove THAT much more body, and don't want to lose foot room. (size 14 shoes and a stick shift) An inboard tank will at least be more protected from hitting stuff that is outside the frame's width, which would be help enough. (a LOT of the trails I wheel on were designed more with Jeep widths in mind AND a lot of the people I wheel with are in Jeeps)
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I know this has been said before, but one major difference between your truck and the trucks that came with inboard tanks is frame width. Your frame rails are much closer together than those of a GMT-400. You just don't have much room to spare down there unless you chucked your rear driveshaft. So anything in that location would have to be really skinny, and it would cramp the other items in that space (driveshaft, mufflers, brake/fuel lines running through frame rails, fuel tank switch). I'm curious to see what you come up with, as I've had a simliar thought. Just make sure you don't cover up something you'll want access to later. :doah:


How long will the forward cavity be on this shortened truck? I'm thinking that if you wind up with a tank that is skinny AND short that you may miss the capacity of a full-sized tank. :dunno:


And are you planning to run a normal K5/Suburban tank in the rear, or is that one going to also be unique?
 
campfire said:
I know this has been said before, but one major difference between your truck and the trucks that came with inboard tanks is frame width. Your frame rails are much closer together than those of a GMT-400. You just don't have much room to spare down there unless you chucked your rear driveshaft. So anything in that location would have to be really skinny, and it would cramp the other items in that space (driveshaft, mufflers, brake/fuel lines running through frame rails, fuel tank switch). I'm curious to see what you come up with, as I've had a simliar thought. Just make sure you don't cover up something you'll want access to later. :doah:


How long will the forward cavity be on this shortened truck? I'm thinking that if you wind up with a tank that is skinny AND short that you may miss the capacity of a full-sized tank. :dunno:


And are you planning to run a normal K5/Suburban tank in the rear, or is that one going to also be unique?
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10-4! Yeah, I didn't realize the newer tank was so much wider so, that's a no go. Even if the new tank is much smaller, it will be okay since I plan on an aft axle tank too. May go custom for the tank between the rails, there is a supplier we use for custom tanks at my work that seems to do a very good job for not bad $$$ so, I will talk to him on pricing when the time comes.

As for the aft axle tank, I was originally planing something like a YJ/TJ tank to gain some fuel capacity but leave room for a rear winch. But, IDK if I will end up doing a rear winch so, may do a Blazer tank for now for simplicity's sake. The only thing I don't like is that the Blazer tank has the filler on the passenger side, can it be run turned around the opposite way??? (I can't remember if it was shaped differently from front to back or not) I think the 1992-2000 ones had it on driver side though? Will one of their tanks fit??? (or are they wider as well?)

sweetk30 said:
my problem was about the same so I just did this . http://coloradok5.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3331522&postcount=23 & http://coloradok5.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3344212&postcount=35

been working great . and boy does it mess with full service fill station guys . . . . were is your tank to fill it ? ? ? :haha:
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LOL! That would be funny at the full service! I like the idea but, I really need the bed space. (especially if I chop down to 5 foot bed!)
 
sweetk30 said:
:haha: my tool box is on a 5ft bed . that extra big box leaves me around 3ft with little extra .
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DOH!!! :doah: Sorry, didn't realize that you also are running a short-short bed! Just looked through your build a good bit, I liked it and like where it is headed!!!

I need the bed space though, I use the heck outta my bed space in my Power Wagon! If I could leave the K30 with an 8 foot bed and still fit on the trails I travel, I would leave it 8 foot!!!
 
blowedupmotor87 said:
DOH!!! :doah: Sorry, didn't realize that you also are running a short-short bed! Just looked through your build a good bit, I liked it and like where it is headed!!!

I need the bed space though, I use the heck outta my bed space in my Power Wagon! If I could leave the K30 with an 8 foot bed and still fit on the trails I travel, I would leave it 8 foot!!!
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Sounds like you need to pick different trails so you can keep the 8-foot bed. :whistle:


:D
 
blowedupmotor87 said:
As for the aft axle tank, I was originally planing something like a YJ/TJ tank to gain some fuel capacity but leave room for a rear winch. But, IDK if I will end up doing a rear winch so, may do a Blazer tank for now for simplicity's sake. The only thing I don't like is that the Blazer tank has the filler on the passenger side, can it be run turned around the opposite way??? (I can't remember if it was shaped differently from front to back or not) I think the 1992-2000 ones had it on driver side though? Will one of their tanks fit??? (or are they wider as well?)
Click to expand...

The square-body vans had aft tanks with driver-side filler necks. Have you looked into using one of those? :dunno:

IIRC, Mosesburb did something like this with his '72 Suburban.


(dig, dig, dig)


Here is the post he put up about it.

HTH.
 
van tank goes in the rear he didn't want that .

and there just the right width they need work to fit up in the frame rails . there that close they rub .
 
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