Changing my u joints

[MrTruck805]

Hi All,

My 89 K5 is showing some signs of needing the u joints replaced (Vibration at 25-35 mph, driveline clunk when shifting into reverse, etc). This will be my first time doing it.

It doesn't have stock axles for an 89 though, it has a Dana 44 front, and 12 bolt rear.

I figured I should go with Spicer as that seems to be the most trusted brand. My first question is should I go with greasable or non greasable (if it even really matters)?

Next question is which one to get. These are my options when I search Summit - http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/u-joints/make/chevrolet/model/k5-blazer/submodel/base/engine-type/v8/brand/spicer-drivetrain-products?N=4294945346%2B4294951398%2B4294949483%2B4294950196%2B4294951399%2B402479&SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending

Can the same u joint be used in the front and back?

Last question is in regards to the Tiger Tool u joint puller. I know the price tag seems ridiculous to the vast majority of you for a job many of you consider simple, but I have a knack for making simple jobs not so simple. If anyone is familiar with it, I think this is the one I would want? - http://www.tigertool.com/product/u-joint-puller-light-size-trucks/

Thanks a lot for the help, and sorry for the newb questions.

 

[Deuling]

I love spicer non greasable for axle shaft joints, as they are pretty hard to grease even if you get greasable, and they were a much nicer joint IMO.


No need for any tools other than a hammer, and a vice for removal and installation.


Set the cross between the vice jaws, not tightened down, but literally sitting on top of the jaws and give the vertical yoke a good whack with a hammer. Assuming you already removed the c clips. Rotate and repeat.

 

[Ned Kelly]

I have used Duelings method many times, and I have used this tool from Harbour Freight many times too. The tool is nice, and can be bought from $30 when on sale. I found it locally for $30 at one of the tool houses.

The ujt tool:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ktlAy_uRwYo

I run greasable Spicers. I do a lot of mud and water, so for me a good choice. I have an open front diff so that also helps ujt survival. I remember a 4x4 mag doing some tests on greasable vs non-greasable ujts, and on average there was only a 5% strength difference. If someone finds info to the contrary please feel free to let us know.

 

[MrTruck805]

Thanks for the replies!

My only question now is what to get. Will the same u joint work on a truck with 10 bolt front and rear, and a truck with a Dana 44 front, 12 bolt rear? Is it all the same between half ton axles?

Can you typically use the same u joint in the front of your truck as the back?

Should any of these joints from summit work fine for my Dana 44 / 12 bolt setup? Thanks! - http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/u-joints/make/chevrolet/model/k5-blazer/submodel/base/engine-type/v8/brand/spicer-drivetrain-products?N=4294945346%2B4294951398%2B4294949483%2B4294950196%2B4294951399%2B402479&SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending

 

[Bent77]

Thanks for the replies!

My only question now is what to get. Will the same u joint work on a truck with 10 bolt front and rear, and a truck with a Dana 44 front, 12 bolt rear? Is it all the same between half ton axles?

Can you typically use the same u joint in the front of your truck as the back?

Should any of these joints from summit work fine for my Dana 44 / 12 bolt setup? Thanks! - http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/u-joints/make/chevrolet/model/k5-blazer/submodel/base/engine-type/v8/brand/spicer-drivetrain-products?N=4294945346%2B4294951398%2B4294949483%2B4294950196%2B4294951399%2B402479&SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending

5-760x is your axle joint, possibly Spicers finest product.

The driveshaft ujoints should be a 1310. 153x for greasable, sdh-5-1310x for ungreasable

 

[76k5blazerr]

Only tip I have for you is when installing the new joints in the shafts make damn sure to get them in exactly the right spot (not to far to one side or the other) if you know what I mean. If they do not move freely once you press them in then you have to redo them or else. I did them on my truck a couple years ago and they didn't move freely and I was pissed off so I just figured they'd work themselves into the right spot from driving. A month or so later after a trip down the highway I rolled into a gas station and my rear driveshaft literally fell out of the truck and hit the ground. No joke. My t case end u joint had completely exploded. Thank god the front shaft was still ok or I wouldn't have made it home. So don't learn that lesson the hard way like I did. Do it right.

 

[Chevy911]

Only tip I have for you is when installing the new joints in the shafts make damn sure to get them in exactly the right spot (not to far to one side or the other) if you know what I mean. If they do not move freely once you press them in then you have to redo them or else. I did them on my truck a couple years ago and they didn't move freely and I was pissed off so I just figured they'd work themselves into the right spot from driving. A month or so later after a trip down the highway I rolled into a gas station and my rear driveshaft literally fell out of the truck and hit the ground. No joke. My t case end u joint had completely exploded. Thank god the front shaft was still ok or I wouldn't have made it home. So don't learn that lesson the hard way like I did. Do it right.

You have to seat the caps, its nearly impossible to have them perfect on install. lay the yoke across the vise jaws and hit the unsupported shaft, then keep turning 90 degrees and hit it until the shafts move freely. this pushes the caps tight to the yokes, and doesn't pinch on the cross.

 

[Zeus33rd]

Spicer non-grease-able joints for everything. Grease-able joints are inherently weaker and the grease seals on the grease-able joints suck sh!t compared to the seals on the spicer non-grease-ables. I can pull the caps off a grease-able joint with 2 fingers, I cannot do that with a non grease-able spicer. Need a screw driver to pop it off. What good is a seal if it doesn't keep the grease in? Everytime I've ever had a truck with a grease-able joint, the area around the joint is a damn greasy/mud cake mess from the grease slinging off the joint. The grease is supposed to be in the joint, not all over the bottom of my truck etc.

Get the non grease-able spicers, pop the caps off, squirt a bit of quality grease in the cap, install, wipe off the excess and peel out. Set and forget.

I worked for High Angled Driveline for a couple years. Installed a LOT of ujoints during that time.

 

[Deuling]

Spicer non-grease-able joints for everything. Grease-able joints are inherently weaker and the grease seals on the grease-able joints suck sh!t compared to the seals on the spicer non-grease-ables. I can pull the caps off a grease-able joint with 2 fingers, I cannot do that with a non grease-able spicer. Need a screw driver to pop it off. What good is a seal if it doesn't keep the grease in? Everytime I've ever had a truck with a grease-able joint, the area around the joint is a damn greasy/mud cake mess from the grease slinging off the joint. The grease is supposed to be in the joint, not all over the bottom of my truck etc.

Get the non grease-able spicers, pop the caps off, squirt a bit of quality grease in the cap, install, wipe off the excess and peel out. Set and forget.

I worked for High Angled Driveline for a couple years. Installed a LOT of ujoints during that time.

Exactly why I love those joints! Those caps are a pain to get off and to me that's a good thing.


Also doesn't a 12 bolt have a 1330 yoke?

 

[Bent77]

Exactly why I love those joints! Those caps are a pain to get off and to me that's a good thing.


Also doesn't a 12 bolt have a 1330 yoke?

Not saying they dont, but all of the ones I have worked on were 1310