CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Charging problem

Redfrog

1/2 ton status
Joined
May 4, 2001
Posts
753
Reaction score
0
Location
IL
I put a new alt. in about 2 months ago. and ever since then
while sitting at idle or when I take my foot off of the gas the voltage drops to about 10 volts. sometimes while sitting at
redlights it stays charging at about 14v unless I have on turn
signals,wipers,ect.. do I have a bad ground,battery,or just a junk alternator, I think it is the regulator but I thought I would ask before I went and had it tested.(if I ever get time) TIA

HEY Fords!!! how many flushes does it
take to get rid of you
 
As with all starting and charging bugs start with the battery.
If ya have the type of battery that is servicable then check the water leval and if ya have a hydrometer check the electrolights.
From there ya can narrow it down .
Check all the connections and if all else fails take it to a place that has an AVR and have it checked out.
Check the belt also to see if it has the proper tension and isn't glazed.
Because that will allow the belt to slip on the pully under a load.


my truck's not dirty, it's earth tone paint
 
First thing to try is running a jumper from the ground terminal to the frame - Sometimes the ground cables have internal corrosion - Then get your battery tested. After that, it's belt tension, regulator test, alternator test.

If it weren't for bad luck, I'd have no luck at all
crazy.gif

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://pugsley.alloffroad.com>http://pugsley.alloffroad.com</A>
 
Ground terminal on the battery Pugsley or ground on the alternator?? I have the EXACT problem that REDFROG is having and it is really P-ssing me OFF!!!!!!!!! Thanks.
Ben 87 Jimmy
 
I had the exact same problem a couple of months ago. I changed the alternator and negative battery cable thinking those were the two most likely culprits......no change. Finally I took it to the shop and had them run a charging system diagnostic. They told me I had a bad starter. I thought they were full of it but figured it was easy enough to pull the starter and have it tested out of the vehicle. When I took it to a guy that rebuilds them, he bench tested the starter and told me that it was working fine but the bearing were a little worn so I had him rebuild it since it was already out and he only charged $40. Anyway, to make a long story short, I replaced the positive battery cable, re-taped all of the wires connecting to or running past the starter, and re-installed the starter. I have not had the problem ever since.


Those who think money can't buy happiness don't know where to shop.
 
Disconnect the Neg. terminal of your battery. One at a time, pull EVERY grounding wire/strap you can find and clean them up real well with a wirebrush and Coke (cola!!!). Get the terminals, the bolts/screws, and the spots they mount to as well. Reassemble and see if it helps.
I had an intermittent electrical problem last summer and this fixed it.


If at first you don't succeed, failure may be your style...
crazy.gif
<font color=green>Semper Maintenance!<font color=black>
 
Jumper from the battery ground terminal to a clean ground on the engine and see if anything happens - it's the quickest test to rule out the cables.

If it weren't for bad luck, I'd have no luck at all
crazy.gif

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://pugsley.alloffroad.com>http://pugsley.alloffroad.com</A>
 
I have repalced the pos battery cable and I added another
ground cable also from the block to the frame. the battery
ground cable goes to the alt bracket. should I add another
form the block to the firewall, I also put on a new starter
could the heat from the headers on the starter be causing this??? TIA

HEY Fords!!! how many flushes does it
take to get rid of you
 
I would try running the engine-firewall ground, and see if that helps. I don't see where the headers could be affecting it - you also could just be posessed of an inaccurate gauge. Try hooking a good voltmeter to your system and see where you're at in relation to your gauge.

If it weren't for bad luck, I'd have no luck at all
crazy.gif

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://pugsley.alloffroad.com>http://pugsley.alloffroad.com</A>
 
Thanks Pugsley I 'll give it a try and see if it works

HEY Fords!!! how many flushes does it
take to get rid of you
 
No prob- Glad to help
smile.gif


If it weren't for bad luck, I'd have no luck at all
crazy.gif

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://pugsley.alloffroad.com>http://pugsley.alloffroad.com</A>
 
Another way to check the cables is to do a voltage drop test.
I have a Fluke meter and to do this test I set the meter at V DC and hook the meter in series with the cable. That is one end of the meter lead on the end of the cable and the other on the other end. if there is a a voltage drop it will register on the meter.
I don't know if this works on other meters but it works on mine . I have had this meter forever, it is one of my favorite tools. It does temps , RPM's diodes,amps.
A good meter Fluke 78.
I think I paid $150 for it 8 years ago.
See ya

my truck's not dirty, it's earth tone paint
 
Top Bottom