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Cheap "high performance" water pump

dyeager535

dyeager535

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Was just perusing the interwebs, decided to see what is available for the SBC. I'll keep the truck forever, so parts with lifetime warranty tend to be appealing. Like brake pads lol.

Anyway, stumbled across the Duralast CWP-520HDA at Autozone http://www.autozone.com/cooling-hea...new-water-pump/701783_647755_0/?checkfit=true Standard rotation long waterpump. Just looked one up for an '86 K5. To boot, it's a lifetime warranty. (FWIW, Schucks sells them too http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d..._5002030_-1&pt=01398&ppt=C0331#itemDetailTab_ )

Happened to notice the alternate part number is odd, and it happens to be GMB 130-1250HP https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gmb-130-1250hp

Looking at the pictures, the castings are the same. Which indicates they may be relabeled GMB pumps. Found this thread http://www.chevelles.com/forums/32-heating-cooling/670650-sbc-hd-water-pump-picture.html which shows an impeller cover plate, another indication the pump isn't "standard". Interesting comments that these are just going back to what was OEM back in the 70's.

Figured I'd put it out there for anyone that may be in the market for a water pump, and wants something that should help cool better than a "stock" replacement, for not a ton of money.
 
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bought this water pump from Jegs (PN# 555-51033) recently for my TBI 350 swirl port engine for $65. My 1991 V3500 is an oddball because it is a TBI engine that still ran a V-Belt set up, which is clockwise rotation. My truck was the only and last year of any Chevy truck, which still ran a V-Belt system.
 
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I don't plan on "upgrading" for a bit myself, and only if I see the need. Which will happen whenever I get the smaller radiator installed.

One reason I hate buying lifetime parts as much as I like it...seem to come up with something better later. Water pump, starter, alternator...even if you don't go with an LS motor or whatever, better stuff seems to become available, or I change my mind after a few years.
 
I couldn't wait. I called around, Schucks (Oreillys, blech) could order what appeared to be the same thing, but it was $107. Autozone told me that part they could NOT order. I felt that maybe Autozone had mis-labeled the part and it was going to be the cast iron one, so why not take a chance. Was able to find a 15% off coupon online (if you don't search whatever vendor and "coupon code" before buying online, you are crazy) and free shipping if I let them take me for some more money, so ordered the master cylinder I needed anyway.

Product arrived today, and although I need to get up at 4AM, had to open it. Sure enough, AL water pump. Then I had to pop the back cover. Sure enough, closed impeller. Just based on the clearance between the pump casting and impeller, and how close to the back plate of the pump the impeller is, it appears to be a well put together product. Does not seem to be identical to the casting shown in the pic, it's missing the stylized logo or whatever is on the input snout, but that could have been an across the board change. Nothing to really identify what it is, quick glance showed some numbers laser etched into the pulley hub, and some on the pump shaft, but that appeared to be it. Date cast into the pump housing as shown in the autozone pic.

I'm going to give this a tentative thumbs up, tentative because I haven't run it yet, but for $65, an AL water pump, with closed impeller and lifetime warranty, is going to be hard to go wrong with. Especially considering the cast iron high performance water pumps are generally the same price.

I'll try to get pics up in a few days.
 
Hey just a heads up I got one of those aluminum waterpumps...they called it a heavy duty style...Looks just like the onend in the pic.

I got it for 40 bucks through rock auto.
 
Man, didn't even think to check rockauto on that for some reason. :( Was it listed for our trucks?

Are you running it now? I'd really like to get an idea of the before/after of running it vs. the stock replacements sold at the parts stores, but running this pump is contingent on a lot of other things getting down which are lower priority than replacing the motor lol.
 
dyeager535 said:
Man, didn't even think to check rockauto on that for some reason. :( Was it listed for our trucks?

Are you running it now? I'd really like to get an idea of the before/after of running it vs. the stock replacements sold at the parts stores, but running this pump is contingent on a lot of other things getting down which are lower priority than replacing the motor lol.
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Yeah I just picked an 85 k5...here it is

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4944804&cc=1050613&jnid=409&jpid=11

I remember reading up on it a while back just to make sure it wasnt a pos and it had gpod reviews. I havent used it yet but im close.

I had to make a small spacerfor thw pulley to line up...about a 16th thick...I can post a pic if you want. Seems like most people have to with anything but oem. Very simple fix.
 
Sure, post up, may help someone else too, no matter which pump they run apparently.

That pic has the same casting mark I first noticed on the GMB pumps, does yours have that too, or just the date casting near that spot?

I wondered about the pulley spacing, it seems so arbitrary how far to push the hub. Doesn't seem to be any sort of machining on the pump shaft to use as a register for the hub. Wonder if the hub can be pulled out with a decent three jaw puller instead of having to shim?
 
Just went and looked at it. It almost seems like the pulley could be yanked out but the shaft has a chamfer where it meets the pulley, which is odd...not sure what to make of that but I have a pic.

Also can see the markings on my pump.

The shaft is definitely a ground .625", which I mistakenly thought was .5" when I machined the spacer....easy fix.

The od of the spacer is 2.62 followed by 4 holes at .36" on a bolt circle of 2.125" and of course a 5/8s whole in the middle.

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Good pics!

If I put what you are saying together with the pics, you think the shaft "necks up" where the flange is pressed on? I'm just wondering if that is a recessed portion machined into the flange for some reason. Probably not, but it almost appears so. Would make it easier to get the flange on being stepped I'm sure.
 
dyeager535 said:
Good pics!

If I put what you are saying together with the pics, you think the shaft "necks up" where the flange is pressed on? I'm just wondering if that is a recessed portion machined into the flange for some reason. Probably not, but it almost appears so. Would make it easier to get the flange on being stepped I'm sure.
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Thanks!

Ive been thinking about it some. The shaft shows no sign of having anything pressed over it....im almost wondering if its a taper/step and everything is pressed on from one side. Makes sense to me.
 
wetoolowdingbangow said:
Just went and looked at it. It almost seems like the pulley could be yanked out but the shaft has a chamfer where it meets the pulley, which is odd...not sure what to make of that but I have a pic.

Also can see the markings on my pump.

The shaft is definitely a ground .625", which I mistakenly thought was .5" when I machined the spacer....easy fix.

The od of the spacer is 2.62 followed by 4 holes at .36" on a bolt circle of 2.125" and of course a 5/8s whole in the middle.

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Any chance you made a few extra of those spacers? :deal:
 
wetoolowdingbangow said:
I actually did! Are you running the same pump? I need to confirm it spaced just right then we're good to go.
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No I have an Edelbrock pump but I think the pulley is a little shallow just like this one. What thickness is the spacer?
 
After an exhaustive search on the Internet about water pumps , I ended up ordering one off eBay from a speed parts vendor in Tennessee. It's an aluminum housing with a machined impeller that flows 30% more than factory. It was $68. I needed a reverse rotation long pump which was what the auction was. But they have all types. They make these pumps for dirt track and sprint car motors.
 
FYI, finally took the time to upload the pic. Not much to see, I guess that is a good thing.

As mentioned before, looks like the shaft is indeed shouldered, pulling the hub a bit forward doesn't seem like it would be an issue to me.

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