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Cheap Rear CV driveline and slip yolk eleminator setup

Fancy

1/2 ton status
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Aug 21, 2006
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Location
Reno, NV
I was starting to get fed up with my stock NP241 slip yolk. It seamed every time I modified or changed something with my suspension I had to spend a bunch of time realigning my drive shaft. I started looking into the slip yolk elimination kits and was immediately deterred by the prices. I didn’t want to invest a bunch of money into a T-case when I had plans for a doubler anyway. I also didn’t want to sink a tone of money into a driveshaft that I was going to need to replace when I made the swap.

I stumbled across this bolt on SYE kit that you don’t need to remove the 241 to install and ideas began to fly. I came up with a cheap temporary alternative that turned out to have worked better than imagined so far. Being how simple and cheap it was, I thought id share in case anyone found themselves in a similar spot.

After examining the kit I still didn’t want to pay the $200+ into a t-case I was not planning on keeping. So I began taking some measurements and searching. I found the same part for just under $100. (NEAPCO N3-23-9163X) I then used a drill press to put a ½” hole in the end of that part being cautious to get it centered as accurately as possible. Then using carbide tipped bits, I drilled a 7/16” hole in the end of the output shaft of the NP241 by stepping up to it in 1/8” increments. These are the bits I used as I had access to them.

ARTU 7/16 Inch x 6-1/8 Inch Multi-Purpose Drill Bit

http://www.osh.com/Osh-Categories/Tools-&-Hardware/Tools/Power-Tool-Accessories/Drill-Bits-&-Accessories/Bits-and-Bit-Sets/ARTU-7-16-Inch-x-6-1-8-Inch-Multi-Purpose-Drill-Bit/p/6617807

This would be WAY EASIER if the t-case was out but I did it with it in the truck. The hole I drilled was about a 1 ¼” deep and I tapped it for a course thread ½” grade 8 bolt, again keeping centered and straight as possible.

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Originally I had planned to order a new drive-line at this point as it should be with in an inch or so of the same length I needed for the doubler drive-line, assuming I did my math and measurements correct. However after I got looking at the drive-line I pulled out and a spare front I had sitting around. I noticed the slip yolk fit over the end of the spare perfectly keyed and all so I got to thinking.

From here I completely rebuild the front drive-line with new Spicer joints I got for around $50 and slipped the yolk over the other end and hooked it up to my 14 bolt

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