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Cheapest Mig flux core welder that will work on auto body

markrazz

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like it says what is the cheapest Mig Flux Core welder that won’t durn through auto body replacement panels and will irk proper.
Would like to stick with electrical plug rather than gas and 110 v since I don’t have a 220v anywhere to plug in if at all possible.
 
I'm not sure if flux core is the best way to go for thin sheetmetal. It usually burns hotter than a comparable setup with solid wire and shielding gas. If it were me, I would go to Tractor Supply and get the Hobart 140. I have had mine for about 6 years now and have welded a TON of stuff from sheetmetal all the way up to about 1/4 inch (on multiple passes) and it hasn't missed a beat. It's about 500 bucks IIRC.
 
X2 on the Hobart 140, I picked up mine for my full vert swap, and it works great with gas and some thin wire. Honestly, I'm into my setup for ~$900 with gas, a mask, cart, etc...

-Rob
 
Another vote for the 140... I could be convinced to let mine go for cheap, but shipping would kill the deal.
 
Buy a name brand MIG with gas capability and be done with it--it might cost more,but its worth it,and a 220V one is much better than a 100V,though some of the better 110V MIG's do well on thinner metal..
--sheet metal sucks to weld with anything else except a TIG torch maybe,the flux core welders are usually not DC in the cheaper models and are NOT a MIG,they are wire feed arc welders,and they blow holes in sheet metal just as fast and too easily just like a stick welder will...
Even a DC flux core 110V welder will not be easy to use on sheet metal with success...

After using a real MIG that runs on 220V,I was able to make continuous beads like a pro on thin body panels,I had borrowed both a wire feed DC 110V welder and a Harbor Freight 90 amp wire feed AC arc welder and succeeded only in blowing holes and getting so pissed I wanted nothing to do with welding sheet metal...going to the 220V MIG with CO2 & Argon made a 100% improvement..

I only wish I could justify owning a 220V MIG,I do not use one often enough in my case to justify the expense,and it is unlikely I'll be doing much more body or rust repair in the future (if I can help it)..unless I stumble across a deal on one I will be unlikely to buy one..I've managed to get by with a stick welder and brazing things but its not the greatest way to weld thin stuff..
 
The Lincoln 110v that is sold at lowes and home depot is good. I have had one for a decade now. It is also about $500 and comes with a regulator so you can go gas or flux core. I have no complaints, its been a great welder.
 
Does the Hobart 140 have the option of gas or just plug in electrical or do you always need to use the gas ?
 
Cool that’s a nice option to have so I could try without gas and if I wasn’t successful I could move in that direction.
Sounds like that flexibility is great
 
yep body work = gas not flux core for best results .

i use to have a 140 was great little unit .

also try and find some EASY GRIND wire for body work so you dont have to put to much heat in the panel when you grind off the weld flat .
 
The only way a gas MIG couldn't work with flux core wire is if it didn't have a provision to swap the polarity. Most do. For sheet metal work, the more low current setting options the better, with continuously variable being ideal. For example, a simple harbor freight unit that sets the current with 2 toggle switches will probably blow holes through your sheet metal on the lowest setting, forcing you to work only in tiny 1-second tacks.
 
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Got eBay screwed welder never showed...
If anyone has a Hobart or lincon or such Mig /flux welder collecting dust let me know looking on a budget...
 
Just saw "cheapest" and "MIG" in the forum listings lol.

Dad bought an older model one of these, back when they were yellow: https://www.eastwood.com/mig-welder-110vac-135a-output.html

It's been sitting in my garage for a few years, and I've burned through 12 or more pounds of wire with it. Definitely not good for stuff like railroad track (don't judge me) and the duty cycle when the voltage is cranked way up is nil, but it's welded a fair bit on a couple of K5 frames, and many different thicknesses of sheet metal, never had an issue with it when it was within it's capabilities. I am super anal about trying not to weld for very long without giving it a break, and leaving it running after I'm done so the fan is hopefully cooling the board.

No idea if he/I got lucky with this one, or if the design is as good as the cheapy MIG's can be, but for small volume/thinner metals, this one has been good.
 
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