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Check my math. D-shaft angles

MTBLAZER89

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Ok after my shackle flip and 56" swap my angles are wacked and I have some vibes. Right now as it sits it looks about perfect for a CV shaft, but I dont have the money for that, and am not sure if my springs/drivetrain is going to stay the same this spring so single joints for a bit.

My Case is at 4* down

The slop of the driveshaft is 14*

The Pinion is pointed up at 12*

If I figured this right my upper joint is operating at 10* and the lower is operating at 2*. I need a 10* shim to get my pinion at 2* which under load will be around 3*-4* correct.
 
If memory serves you want the angles the same on a non CV shaft. the joints will cancel each others vibes out this way.
 
If you can get the operating angles close to the same the vibration will drop down to a tolerable level. You need to drop the pinion down just as you've drawn.

You may still have some vibration with large operating angle and you'll definitely be wearing u-joints out regularly.
 
yup, drop that pinion down to where it is parallel to the TC output for a non cv shaft. the joints will cancel each other out and you wont feel anything.

for a CV you have the pinion at zero angle and the two joints at the cv are at equal angles so they cancel those vibes out.
 
so a 10* shim will get me all lined up right?

Here's the deal:

Pointing the pinion down will increase the slope of the driveshaft and will increase the operating angle of the pinion u-joint. You can calculate the angles if you wish.

I messed around with driveshaft angle a lot and in the end the best setup I could come up with is to have ~1 degree operating angle on the pinion side (below center, pointing just below the t-case output) and then whatever angles on everything else (I had a 4" lift with a 465/205).

I hardly ever noticed vibes but the 205 made the common grinding noise while coasting (meaning the vibration was there).

According to Spicer, their joints shouldn't be operated in excess of 3 IIRC because there will be noticeable vibration after that (and that's taking into account that both joints are operating at the same angle).

Basically what that means is that if you are lifting the truck, you will have vibrations unless you go to a cv style driveshaft.






MT, pointing your pinion back down may help and it may not.

U-joint vibration is caused whenever a u-joint is operated at any angle. This is because each u-joint cap speeds up and slows down through its travel (this is easier to see than to explain). Since there is a u-joint at each side, and if they are phased correctly (your driveshaft should be phased correctly already but you can search to see what I mean), the two vibrations will cancel each other out.

With the pinion pointed further down the pinion u-joint will do a better job of cancelling out the vibration caused by the t-case u-joint. But the operating angle of both joints will be more severe. You will be well exceeding Spicers limit of 3 deg. You may be able to make the vibes better but you won't solve the problem without a double cardan driveshaft.
 
Sounds to me that you would need an 8* shim to turn your pinion down to get 4* at the pinion. Maybe 10 degrees at the most if you want to work axle wrap into it.
 
Sounds to me that you would need an 8* shim to turn your pinion down to get 4* at the pinion. Maybe 10 degrees at the most if you want to work axle wrap into it.

Yeah 8* will make the angles equal, but I was thinking 10 to account for wrap. I just went to 56's and they are very soft and I have no anti wrap bar yet.

I just need this to be tolerable for my trip to WA then again it will be local trips only. If I have to replace the joints upon arrival so be it.
 
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