Checking intrest in Stronghand type welding table plates. Post up if intrested please

[rdn2blazer]

These:

http://www.stronghandtools.com/build...ual_plates.php


I'm looking into machining myown version of the Stronghand type welding table plates to guys making their own welding tables can buy these and use then as a modular welding table setup. Would like to see if there is intrest for these at a more affordable cost. Anyone why has ever looked into these knows thre are pricy.

The Stronghand are 5/8 think steel and are heat treated and blanchard ground with 5/8 tooling holes only for their accessories. I want to make mine out of 1" A572 structural steel, but these will be A572 material condition. Just material strength only, which A572 is some strong steel. Much harder then you 1018 cold rolled steel.

My plates will have 1/2-13 class 2 drill & tapped thru holes, AND 1/2 thru holes, AND 5/8 tooling holes so they accept the Stronghand tooling as well. Mine will also have drilled and tapped holes around the periphery of the plate on the long side, so you can bolt them @ 90 degree's as well with out having to use angle blocks.

So you would only lose heat treating but keep the plate strength in the thickness. Would not be as hard a surface, but for the home shop fabricator guy, do you really NEED it? No, you don't. I've had my welding tables for decades and they are not heat treated.


Pleae, Let me know. I need all the feed back I can get from this. Plate size will be 1" thick x 39" long x 6" high. Or any custom length someone wants up to our mill capacity. Don't want to step the plate over to machine it. Let me know fella's. Thank You for any feedback given in advance!

 

[blazinzuk]

I would be interested in some. Not right away but within a year

 

[A1971Blazer]

These do look neat but as with any steel table, you're gonna have to grind off some spatter occasionally and run a tap thru the holes when they get gommed up with crud.

I would hate to pay that much for a table then go to grinding on it!

I bought an old die table years ago that's cast iron. It works great, good and flat, but just not big enough.


Where I worked many years ago, they had the big cast iron "Acorn" brand tables with the big square holes and all the hold down stuff to go with them. They were nice!http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/weldsale-welding-table.html

 

[rdn2blazer]

These do look neat but as with any steel table, you're gonna have to grind off some spatter occasionally and run a tap thru the holes when they get gommed up with crud.

I would hate to pay that much for a table then go to grinding on it!

I bought an old die table years ago that's cast iron. It works great, good and flat, but just not big enough.


Where I worked many years ago, they had the big cast iron "Acorn" brand tables with the big square holes and all the hold down stuff to go with them. They were nice!http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/weldsale-welding-table.html

True statement, but why would you want to grind on a heat treated table or weld to it for that matter? You wouldn't. Thats the benifit of these is they are not heat treated so you can gring on them, cut them up into smaller jig and fixture plates, weld to them temporary or permanently. Thread repair is MUCH MUCH easier on non hardened threads, and you can certainly still get SUPER strong clamping and holding forces with unheat treated materal, especially A572 steel.

This being NOT heat treated harder then it's own A572 heat treating or processing, and the fact it's structrual steel makes it very weldable great material for any all around use for welding plates or any other use one can think of. If you clean up weld spatter correctly you shouldn't be gouging it with a gringer anyways. And a little Anti-spatter on the table surface all but just about eliminates spatter anyways.

As far as the tapped holes, I can supply flat screwdriver blade tip set screws at extra cost of course to fill all the threaded holes. You just remove the ones you use. The other should be protected for this exact reason you described. You should take care of your plates with regular oiling and only have to chase threads if you damage one. Anything threaded into any tapped hole should have at worst case sinario proper minimum thread engagement for it to hold it's intended force, but not beyond it's failure point. Then that becomes user error. And not my problem.