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Chemical Stripping of Rust?

skratch

1/2 ton status
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Gorveport, OH
Does anyone know what I can use to chemicaly strip rust off of metal parts on my rig.

I don't have access to a sandblaster for these smaller parts but I need to get them clean enough to paint.

The wire wheel is getting old doing all these parts (knuckles, hubs, transfercase adapters. . .)
 
According to the back of the bottle, /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif you could soak them in Metal Prep from POR-15. I've never tried to though so I don't know if it will actually work. /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 
I was just reading in 4x4 Builder of a product called Evapo-Rust . It's a water based product that removes rust. I'm going to research it and see if it's as good as they claim.
 
OK, I guess a better question would be; What do machine shops use when they hot tank an engine.

That would get these parts clean enough for what I want to do to them.
A sandblaster would be better but that's out of my budget right now (so's the air compressor that's required) /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif
 
One of the easiest methods I've found for stripping rust uses lye, water and a battery charger. It goes like this... take a plastic container like a 5 gal bucket. fill it with water and add lye (red devil drain cleaner or similar product) about 1 tbls per gal. Stir well. take the rusty part, degrease it, wrap it a couple of times with wechanics wire and put it in the solution leaving a "tail" of wire sticking up above the liquid. Take a clean bare steel rod, rebar is good, and place that into the bucket NOT TOUCHING the rusty part. Now hook a battery charger up to the two parts, negative on the rusty part,(I think, been a while since I've done this)positive to the clean steel and plug it in. If I've remembered the polarity the rusty part should start to bubble and fizz gently after ten minutes or so. Let this cook for 24 hours. When done, the part should be removed, scrubbed with a bristle brush and hosed off. Most of the rust should be in the bucket, the rest should wash off. Second treatments are rarely needed. I've done anything that'll fit in a 5 gal pail, 16.5" wheels in a 16gal shop vac base, tierods in a length of 4" pvc pipe capped at one end. Obviously large stuff like diff housings and entire frames can't be done this way. I did the ends of my d60 by standing it on end in the 5gal bucket /forums/images/graemlins/yikes.gif I don't recommend this, thats a heavy sucker. Give this method a try on small stuff, then get creative. The solution can be freshened with lye a few times. I dumped the used stuff down the toilet where the drain cleaner would go eventually.
 
More so than that, EYE PROTECTION.

A little bit of LYE in 5 gallons of water will most likely not cause irrepairable skin effects (but why suffer?). However, your eyes arent nearly as forgiving.
 
I realize that this thread is like 12years old but muratic acid works friggin awesome you can soak or just use a brush, just make damn sure you DO NOT GET IT ON ALUMINUM!!!!! and it's water slouable just rinse really good with the garden hose
 
That's some nasty stuff. I use evaporust, cost more but it doesn't irritate the skin and is biodegradable.
 
I know you aren't going to believe me, but if you have the time, one of the best rust removers is molasses. It's cheaper ifyou get feed grade at the Co-Op but if you soak parts in molasses for one to two weeks, it will completely remove the rust without removing material. It's astonishing! I know it works because I used it on my vent windows...removed the rust without scratching up the chrome. Took two weeks in a 55 gallon drum of molasses

07DSC_0008.JPG
 
I was just reading in 4x4 Builder of a product called Evapo-Rust . It's a water based product that removes rust. I'm going to research it and see if it's as good as they claim.

I've used it on nuts/bolts....works pretty good, is reusable, water cleanup, safe on the hands and eyes as well.
I got it on Amazon.

check it out

HERE
 
Plain white vinegar works remarkably well on parts small enough to be submerged in it also...its fairly cheap in bulk too...

I filled the rusted master cylinder on my van with vinegar after it had sat empty for years and rusted badly--it took a few days,but after I removed the vinegar with a shop vac,it looked like I had sandblasted the cast iron,it was nice gray color and clean...but I ended up deciding for 20 bucks I'd be better off replacing it..wasn't sure if it harmed the piston seals,but it did seem to work fine--pedal was "stuck" before I soaked the master with vinegar..

The electrolosis tank works best out of them all probably..same method they use to restore shipwreck parts and treasure !..
 
You don't need to use lye for the electrochemical removal, washing soda will work and it is less caustic. You want Arm & Hammer washing soda from the laundry section.
 
One of the easiest methods I've found for stripping rust uses lye, water and a battery charger. It goes like this... take a plastic container like a 5 gal bucket. fill it with water and add lye (red devil drain cleaner or similar product) about 1 tbls per gal. Stir well. take the rusty part, degrease it, wrap it a couple of times with wechanics wire and put it in the solution leaving a "tail" of wire sticking up above the liquid. Take a clean bare steel rod, rebar is good, and place that into the bucket NOT TOUCHING the rusty part. Now hook a battery charger up to the two parts, negative on the rusty part,(I think, been a while since I've done this)positive to the clean steel and plug it in. If I've remembered the polarity the rusty part should start to bubble and fizz gently after ten minutes or so. Let this cook for 24 hours. When done, the part should be removed, scrubbed with a bristle brush and hosed off. Most of the rust should be in the bucket, the rest should wash off. Second treatments are rarely needed. I've done anything that'll fit in a 5 gal pail, 16.5" wheels in a 16gal shop vac base, tierods in a length of 4" pvc pipe capped at one end. Obviously large stuff like diff housings and entire frames can't be done this way. I did the ends of my d60 by standing it on end in the 5gal bucket /forums/images/graemlins/yikes.gif I don't recommend this, thats a heavy sucker. Give this method a try on small stuff, then get creative. The solution can be freshened with lye a few times. I dumped the used stuff down the toilet where the drain cleaner would go eventually.
my GF is in archeology and this is what they do, it's pretty amazing when you see the results. I've submerged wrenches with white vinegar and was happy with it
 

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