CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Chevy 1 ton rear drive shaft into 7" travel front shaft, 1350

I think the same length. I keep stealing the rear shafts as spares for my K30. All the rear shafts and yokes are the same length. I will haev to measure one.
 
Yeah, I have a few of these as well. I have one from a 197x K20 that was an SM465/NP205 truck.

Martin
 
I have a couple of these as well. Was going to do something very similar to this until I got my tractor pto stuff. Its splined shaft with a weld in collar and Ive got 19" of slip. Plus it was all free scrap at the local tractor shop.
 
I have a couple of these as well. Was going to do something very similar to this until I got my tractor pto stuff. Its splined shaft with a weld in collar and Ive got 19" of slip. Plus it was all free scrap at the local tractor shop.

I wanted to do that but I read that the PTO shafts are not hardend
 
Maybe I missed it.But did you weld it up?If so what did you use?I tried the same thing but the weld kept breaking.The yoke was cast and normal mig wire didn't work.
 
Maybe I missed it.But did you weld it up?If so what did you use?I tried the same thing but the weld kept breaking.The yoke was cast and normal mig wire didn't work.

I haven't welded it yet, now I'm worried

I'm going to do a TIG on the spline with a mig over it

I don't think I'll be able to to that on the yoke

I had kind of just figured it was cast steel
 
I haven't welded it yet, now I'm worried

I'm going to do a TIG on the spline with a mig over it

I don't think I'll be able to to that on the yoke

I had kind of just figured it was cast steel
I have welded on these before, didn't have a problem with a MIG.
I did get it hot though and did multiple passes to get it really hot and penetrate, then let it cool down at room temperature.
 
Yeah I was thinking about preheating and then letting it cool down in sand so it cools equally
 
Tigged and it cracked after smacking it, it was only one pass and pretty thin though

I have a steel yoke, I suppose I could try that, the spline would still be cast
 
Tigged and it cracked after smacking it, it was only one pass and pretty thin though

I have a steel yoke, I suppose I could try that, the spline would still be cast
Well what I would be doing is sleeving the whole thing so you will need a longer tube, you will need to machine the yoke parts to fit inside the tube tight fit, and then you weld the ends, and burn them hot, make a few passes.
It will hold I am sure.
 
They do fit inside the tube, maybe I'll re-tig it tomorrrow and get some stainless rod to fill it with

Maybe I'll just mig over it with regular wire, I think It'll hold
 
They do fit inside the tube, maybe I'll re-tig it tomorrrow and get some stainless rod to fill it with

Maybe I'll just mig over it with regular wire, I think It'll hold
I know they fit over, but how much is the over lap?
I was talking about covering it all for more overlap:dunno:
 
I welded it today and I think It will hold.

Spring break is over and it might be 2 weeks before I get back home to drive it. My dad is going to get it tubed though

I'll be putting a lot of power to it, so it should be a good test

I've got some pics to put later
 
Tig root pass

w7lwrb.jpg


Mig over tig, plus plug welds

15sadf6.jpg


Done after grinding some splines to clear where I accidently melted the splines in a little, I'm hoping it wears itself in a bit

208zfoj.jpg
 
If it couldn't be welded, then how were these driveshafts assembled in the first place?
 
The slip yoke was all one piece, I think the driveshaft ends are steel

After looking at the slip yoke again I think it's out of steel also so I think it should be fine welded. I just didn't have enough meat on it before
 
Looks good:waytogo:

Do you think it could be done without TIG? Just a couple good passes with MIG?
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom