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Chevy 400 bearly runs

corey6969

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Hi,

This one has me stumped. I got this chevy 400 engine from a buddy of mine. I seen this engine run and drive in his car and it ran great. He took it out and I put it in my pickup because im rebuilding the orignal 400 in it and hit a few roadblocks in that project.

It didnt come with a distrubutor. I pulled the heads and replaced the head gaskets and of course the gaskets i had to take off to get to the heads, because it came from a junkyard. I reset the valves and put it in my truck. I put my pretty much brand new distributor from my old 400 in this one. Turned out I was 180 degrees off when I set the valves and put in the distributor(it backfired out the carb when i tried to start it, thats what happens when your tired late at night working on stuff :crazy:).

So I turned the distributor 180 degrees and reset the valves the right way and it finally started but runs like CRAP. I set the timing to about 8 degrees and still crappy. If i rev it up to around 2500 i can hear it backfire out the headers once in a while and once i seen black smoke backfire out the carb. I checked the distributor orentation again and its pointing towards #1 at tdc(did the finger test). Checked the wires to make sure they were in the right order about 6 times and they are.

Tried a different carb(ive had a problem with idle on a 4150 street avenger carb) and still the same thing. It sounds like it doesnt hit on all the cylinders and the engine vibrates like you wouldnt believe. Im going to pull the valve covers off again tomorrow and make sure all the valves are moving and reset the valve lash again. The way its acting it has to be valve related but it just doesnt make sense.

I set the valves like I did when I had the heads redone on my orignal 400, tighten the valve till u hit 0 lash then tighten another 3/4 of a turn and it make my original 400 run SMOOTH without a hicup.

I just dont understand how a smooth running engine (that i seen running) ran so good and now its bearly running. Also when I got close to TDC on #1 with the finger test i aligned it to the 0 degree timing mark with the balancer. Maby that outer ring moved a bit, that was my second idea.

This one has me totally stumped, usually I can figure that kinda stuff out but not this time, maby I already answered my own question HAHA. I just wanted some input. Ive always been able to find answers to my questions by searching the forums but not this time so im extremly confident you guys know something I might have forgot to do when i put this engine in.

If need be I could always take a short video of me starting the engine instead of my long rambling.

Thanks in advance and I will post back when (if ever) I get it running.
 
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I initially set my valves like that, but then I go through them again once I get it running. It's messy, but then I know they're right.
 
Sounds like too much preload on the valve adjust. This could cause the valves to not quite close, which means lack of compression and misfiring. Try backing them off 1/4 turn and see if it makes a difference.

Rene
 
Not saying you're stupid or anything, but did you check the REALLY simple things that can sometimes be overlooked? Like crossed plug wires, a rag in the intake, pinched fuel line,etc.
 
Its definatly the valves, im still fighing with them. Apparently their just old and bleeding off oil when the engine is shutdown. Block is from 70-72 according to the casting numbers so shes 35+ years old. And if i recall right those years were the higher horsepower 400's right, because when the valves were right i went and drove it and it had some mad power for beeing that old.

Can the lifters be that bad to where they wont pump up for quite a while, because I reset the valves with the engine off to 1/4 turn past 0 lash and it ran like a champ so i went and drove it and it slowly lost power and started popping once a while out the exhuast, now it idles at 900 or so and i put it in gear and it drops to about 500 rpms and it doesnt have crap for get up and go.

I couldnt beleve it took that long for things to get out of adjustment again. Ide say about 10 hard miles. Its just not feasable to change the lifters, I was just going to use this one untill I got my other 400 built.

Would I be able to get by, by adjusting the valves with the engine running(good and warmed up). Because before the heads were off it ran just fine so its in the back of my head it should still run like that.

Fustrating.....:mad::confused::mad:
 
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I went back out there again and backed all the valves off 1/8 turn so the total turnage after 0 lash was 1/8 of a turn. I dont get it why it wont work any higher then that. She smokes the tires now!!!! One lifter on cylinder 4 likes to collapse and tick sometimes but then pumps back up.

You know what that means, time for some 20w-50 and some STP. Instant problem solver :D:D.

Thanks guys for your help
 

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