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Chevy Dana 60 vs. Dodge Dana 60

doubletrouble

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I want to put a dana 60 in the front of my blazer, I have a chance to get a dana 60 out of a 92 dodge single rear axle truck for payment on storing a buddy's truck. What is the difference in a chevy and a dodge dana 60? Thanks
 
IIRC that year Dodge will be a driver drop, unit bearings and also uses link arms instead of leaf springs.
 
maybe its older then, its a passenger drop and leaf spring front. Its a rolled truck that I am storing for a buddy not much left to tell the year.
 
A 92 is a pass drop. King pin

Minor diff from a gm. 1/2" wider perches. Different shock mounts. Steering ARM is different. The shafts are different. But otherwise its a good axle.

Make sure it has 3.54 or 4.10 in it. Is should if its a 92. The older ones are Dana 61s with 3.07s.
 
'93 and older is kingpin, passenger drop, leaf sprung with perches within 1/2" of the Chevy spacing. Generally good, but with some downfalls.

The '94 and newer Dodge D60's are driver's side drop, ball joint style, use D44 sized shafts, have a CAD (central axle disconnect), unit bearing hubs, and they have no crossover type steering options, so you're left with the stock type steering which is virtually useless on a lifted truck and pretty much doesn't work with leaves.

Tangent over, the '92 will be a passenger drop, kingpin diff for sure. AFAIK, the D61 was only used in the early Cummins trucks (89 only?) and definitely only with the 727 auto. So, IMO, if it's a 92, it would be a D60 and not a D61.

From there the spring perches are a touch wider IIRC and I know for sure that the entire axle is 2" narrower than a GM D60. The spring perches are easy to deal with by cutting down bushings/using washers, the overall width isn't a big deal IMO, other than aesthetics.

The big downfall to most Dodge D60's is that the vast majority use external hubs that are more prone to failure; rather than using a hub that is splined internally and a locking hub that is splined to match (i.e. internal style), they rely on six bolts to hold everything together and they have a tendency to work themselves loose and break. On top of that, there are zero options for the 35 spline upgrade for external locking hubs and extremely limited (if any) options for 35 spline drive flanges. They can be converted to internal style hubs, same cost/parts as converting a DRW Chevy axle to SRW.

Of all the Dodge D60's, '92 might be external (less desirable, per above) or internal (more desirable, GM style, only used in the last ~1-1/2 years of the kingpin Dodge axles, ~92-93).
 
91+ should be internal hubs. My early (non inter-cooled) 91' had internal style.

I would never count on a year split on those Dodge trucks, I've seen '91+ listed as internal hub, but I've seen '92 (intercooled, so definitely post 91.5) trucks that had external hubs.
 
I think you have alot better chance at the 92 being internal hub.

I have worked on several of those and they were all internal hub.

But like has been said who knows with Dodge.

Its just fine to use in a Chevy and I believe only the long side is a different length, short side and stubs are the same as a chevy.

Please someone correct me if I am wrong on that
 
The big downfall to most Dodge D60's is that the vast majority use external hubs that are more prone to failure
Only -89 and older had external hubs.

AFAIK, the D61 was only used in the early Cummins trucks (89 only?) and definitely only with the 727 auto. So, IMO, if it's a 92, it would be a D60 and not a D61.
They changed to dana 60 and the A518 overdrive trans in mid -91.
Before that they used dana 61 axles and the 727 trans

All other info is good though :waytogo:
 
also thinner rotors over gm .

and 1/2" studs over gm 9/16" studs for the wheels.

dodge arm for stock steering is better once you have it redone to tapper on the top for the drag link . its like a factory raised arm then .
 
dodge arm for stock steering is better once you have it redone to tapper on the top for the drag link . its like a factory raised arm then .

was gunna ask about this
the chevy arm has an offset towards the rear while the dodge is straight out, pointing at the engine. It shortens the draglink 2-3" which sucks, but can work. :doah: I'm not sure how this affects turning radius one way over the other.
 
was gunna ask about this
the chevy arm has an offset towards the rear while the dodge is straight out, pointing at the engine. It shortens the draglink 2-3" which sucks, but can work. :doah: I'm not sure how this affects turning radius one way over the other.

In theory it should affect how fast it turns in one direction.
But I run a Chevy steering arm in my dodge, and the difference isn't noticeable.
I was thinking of re-indexing the pitman arm backwards to compensate for it,
but I don't think it's necessary.
But having to shorten the draglink sucks, but I don't think the difference is more than about 1"

If you don't ream out the dodge steering arm so the draglink end will fit on top, it will be a little lower than the chevy arm btw.

Here are some pics of my arms for comparison:
(The one to the left is from the Chevy)
65120121218565830.jpg


e9120121219108293.jpg
 
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