Yeah I checked all the fuses, also I’m not sure if I mentioned this but both the oil pressure gauge and temp gauge passed the grounding test, (they both maxed out when grounded) so I knew the issue was the sender, they’re both working now although my oil pressure is still very low which doesn’t seem right but I suppose I’ll deal with any more problems as they come
CK5
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Chevy K5 oil pressure sending unit help.
- Thread starter Jake_C_
- Start date
ahh glad the gauges work. How old is the oil ?
I changed it last winter when I got it but it probably has 100 miles on it max, I barely drove it before I took it all apart. My oil dibstick is really loose though like it wobbles very easily. It doesn’t leak oil anywhere but idk it just seems like I could be loosing pressure because of that. I have no idea why the dibstick is so loose though.
Dip stick tube wouldn't effect oil pressure. Oil should ok, unless fuel contamination
I’ll have to give the oil the old sniff test sometime
I use a cigarette lighter to check for gas in the oil on my small engines--just pull the dip stick out ,and try to light the oil on fire--if it blazes right up,it has gas in it--if not it will take several seconds to get it to burn..
Small engines on mowers,etc, sometimes get fuel in the oil when the needle & seat valve in the carb decides not to seal up 100%,and depending on the type and location of the carb,gas can end up being siphoned into the crank case & cylinder after sitting for a week or more,sometimes sooner..I install fuel shut offs on my engines,but I don't always remember to use them after I shut down the engine--a few have failed to shut off fully also..gas in the oil will kill an engine rather rapidly,especially a one or two cylinder that relies only on "splash lube" and doesn't have an oil pump or a filter..
If you replaced the sending unit and the oil pressure reads low,it could be the sender isn't calibrated right for the gauge,or the gauge itself might be inaccurate ,its not uncommon
Small engines on mowers,etc, sometimes get fuel in the oil when the needle & seat valve in the carb decides not to seal up 100%,and depending on the type and location of the carb,gas can end up being siphoned into the crank case & cylinder after sitting for a week or more,sometimes sooner..I install fuel shut offs on my engines,but I don't always remember to use them after I shut down the engine--a few have failed to shut off fully also..gas in the oil will kill an engine rather rapidly,especially a one or two cylinder that relies only on "splash lube" and doesn't have an oil pump or a filter..
If you replaced the sending unit and the oil pressure reads low,it could be the sender isn't calibrated right for the gauge,or the gauge itself might be inaccurate ,its not uncommon
ill try it thanks. It seems odd that the gauge would read wrong, I guess I need to get a proper pressure gauge to test it.
The GM oem dash gauges are noted for not being that accurate,especially after years pass..
As an example,my '82 GMC's volt meter often wont go past 12 volts at times,this led me to think the alternator wasn't charging,but a quick check at the battery terminals with a multi-meter showed it was putting out 14.4 volts--when the dash gauge read only a bit over 11 volts..at times the dash gauge reads right,when it doesn't sometimes a slap on the dash wakes it up,other times it wont..
My oil pressure gauge needle vibrates wildly at times also...but it had good oil pressure..
You should get a mechanical pressure gauge and put it where the sending unit goes and warm the engine up well,as the oil will be thicker when cold and show higher pressure than after it is fully warmed up...
If it gets 15-20 psi or more when hot at idle in gear,and climbs above 30 at fast idle around 2500 rpms it has enough not to worry about anything...if it drops under 10 psi at idle then the bearings may have excessive clearance or the oil is too thin a viscosity..usually the valve lifters will start clattering first if oil pressure drops dangerously low..
As an example,my '82 GMC's volt meter often wont go past 12 volts at times,this led me to think the alternator wasn't charging,but a quick check at the battery terminals with a multi-meter showed it was putting out 14.4 volts--when the dash gauge read only a bit over 11 volts..at times the dash gauge reads right,when it doesn't sometimes a slap on the dash wakes it up,other times it wont..
My oil pressure gauge needle vibrates wildly at times also...but it had good oil pressure..
You should get a mechanical pressure gauge and put it where the sending unit goes and warm the engine up well,as the oil will be thicker when cold and show higher pressure than after it is fully warmed up...
If it gets 15-20 psi or more when hot at idle in gear,and climbs above 30 at fast idle around 2500 rpms it has enough not to worry about anything...if it drops under 10 psi at idle then the bearings may have excessive clearance or the oil is too thin a viscosity..usually the valve lifters will start clattering first if oil pressure drops dangerously low..
Great info and advice, much thanks.
The GM gauges that are electric are at a distinct disadvantage because of how poorly the connectors are designed. When things are wired properly (solidly) you'llalmost never see any issues.
