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Choke Problems

bigbadchev84

bigbadchev84

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How do I properly adjust this choke? How does this work? no heat riser or electric hook-up, had it for 3 years now and this is the first cold snap that I have ever had problems with it, High idle dosent work or gets stuck on all the time, it used to work flawlessly. It is not gummed up, I have used 2 cans of carb cleaner on this thing.

blazer003.jpg

blazer001.jpg
 
It looks like it's on the rich side and is a heated choke-non electric. It would be easiest to get an electric heated choke. You could also get the proper linkage but sometimes you have to bend things just right for proper operation. To adjust you loosen the 3 screws and turn the black part. Usually the slot on the side of the black part is broken. If that's the case you need to pry it out and clean around the edges such that you can turn it with your fingers. Anyways, it's not going to work properly without the linkage as in your case.
 
dont go by the alum intake setup, That was a used intake that I got that already had that on there, The carb was on a cast iron manifold originally just like it sits on this alum intake
 
I *believe* that style choke operates by pulling hot air through the red capped port in your picture, from a port on the manifold, that exposes the air to the heat. The fresh air came from the air cleaner.

That could be wrong, but that's how oldsmobiles were set up, and I believe yours is similar. You have vacuum at that red port?
 
not sure about vacuume, and this carb my even be off an oldsmobile? it was on this motor when I got it and the only thing I have done was the alum intake and chrome valve covers, So I would have to put a fitting on the manifold vacuume with a hose going to where the red cap is?
 
that mounting bracket on the intake is for "divorced" or external choke - do not use

you have a "hot air" choke set up that has been disconnected, ie: no tubes supply hot air to the coil anymore. (No vacuum involved in that btw) so you effectively have no choke right now

you have 2 options:
A) (easiest) is to replace the coil with an electric style and hook up a +12V ignition switched wire. can easily find on most 80's qjets, doesnt matter what make/model, and you can get the coil new if you want from most parts stores

B) (harder) is to reattach the hot air choke tubes. The plate that the divorced choke bracket is mounted on *MAY* unbolt and allow access to a cavity inside the manifold. You would need to get the factory hot air tubes to reattach to choke linkage.
 
mechted said:
you have a "hot air" choke set up that has been disconnected, ie: no tubes supply hot air to the coil anymore. (No vacuum involved in that btw) so you effectively have no choke right now
Click to expand...

So without vacuum, how does the hot air get into it? Not arguing, just checking. :) It would seem that vacuum would be a good way to pull the hot air in, but it would seem hard to plumb the choke housing for vacuum. Then again, at least on the Olds, there is a choke coil gasket.

I confess, I never really looked at the Oldsmobile system, other than to find that the clean air for it came from a non-vacuum tap at the top of the carb. That carb is not from an Oldsmobile, the fuel inlet faces directly forward on an Olds.
 
yeah, but you will need the electrical connector that attaches to it (not a standard blade... its kinda L shaped (junkyard/pocket)

as for the vacuum thing: i assumed there was no vacuum as i never saw vacuum ports in there when i rebuild my carb. I assumed it was just a single pipe that warmed as the intake warmed, and through conduction/natural convection moved warm air from the intake to the choke coil housing... so i could be wrong there
 
I just did a conversion to manual choke today on an Edel"broken" carburator. Manual is the way to go for me. A suggestion if you do this.....remove all linkages for all that priming crap, and don't try to use the mount that goes where the coil was. Just get rid of it all, and link straight to the arm that actuates the choke butterfly, that way there is no slop in the linkages.
 
Your other option (can't see pics right now, saw it earlier though) looks to be that you could also swap to the right style choke for that intake. The electric would probably be easiest, that doesn't seem that pricey to be honest. Last I looked they were around $75. I also believe it would just slap right in, can't think of why it wouldn't. GM did run those through an oil pressure switch so that the choke wasn't powered with key on/engine off, but I don't think many people leave their vehicles with the key in run with the vehicle turned off, if you don't, it would be a non-issue.

Don't expect to bolt it on and have it work right of course, you'll need to play around with it some, but it shouldn't be too bad.
 
dyeager535 said:
GM did run those through an oil pressure switch so that the choke wasn't powered with key on/engine off, but I don't think many people leave their vehicles with the key in run with the vehicle turned off, if you don't, it would be a non-issue.
Click to expand...

I have mine wired directly to ignition hot, and so far I have only had this happen once or twice. When it does, your choke fails to engage, and you have to keep the motor alive with the gas pedal for the first minute/mile. Its really not that hard with a manual, so i haven't bothered with it
 
Like you've experienced, I can't see that accidental time or two being a real issue, it shouldn't keep the vehicle from not starting, although it may be a bit harder.

I guess I approached it from the angle of not draining the battery, but the issue you describe is more likely why GM added the pressure switch. Makes sense, some owners might have left the key on long enough for the coil to heat up, thus no choke on a cold engine, then complained about a problem.
 
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