CK5
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Choke question.
- Thread starter 77_Jimmy
- Start date
GM wired them up through an oil pressure switch as I recall, many just wire it up to an ignition hot.
Don't know as it would make any difference unless you spend a LOT of time with the key on/engine off.
Don't know as it would make any difference unless you spend a LOT of time with the key on/engine off.
agreed with Dorian...ign run/start positions will do the job, do not use accessory or constant 12v power.
Look for proper setting up of that choke butterfly and the vacuum pulloff to make sure they operate as they should...it will make a big difference in how the cold weather operation is.
That choke coil should operate the linkage so it just closes that choke plate when the engine is cold, (after opening the throttle blade...pump the acc pedal 2 times for cold start) and after 5min it should heat up that coil and push the linkage to fully open that butterfly.
Also that vacuum pulloff should slightly open the choke blade when cranking the engine (as soon as it starts making a vacuum signal through the venturis) about 3/16" to allow some air into the engine, and after the engine starts it should remain open that much until the coil heats up to open the blade fully.
Look for proper setting up of that choke butterfly and the vacuum pulloff to make sure they operate as they should...it will make a big difference in how the cold weather operation is.
That choke coil should operate the linkage so it just closes that choke plate when the engine is cold, (after opening the throttle blade...pump the acc pedal 2 times for cold start) and after 5min it should heat up that coil and push the linkage to fully open that butterfly.
Also that vacuum pulloff should slightly open the choke blade when cranking the engine (as soon as it starts making a vacuum signal through the venturis) about 3/16" to allow some air into the engine, and after the engine starts it should remain open that much until the coil heats up to open the blade fully.
You should be able to find a tap or fuse in the fuse box that is hot only when the key is in the "run" position,and dead when its on "acc"...dont be tempted to piggyback it on the HEI or coil power wire though,as it will reduce the voltage going to them and they need a full 12V..
I've managed to break or lose all my cheapie test lights--so for the time being,I just am using some old christmas tree lights I had,that were getting too old and shabby to use outside any more..
I just snipped one socket off,stripped the wires,and used some finishing nails for probes...they light up on 12V fine...and I have LOTS of spare bulbs!..
You can use anything similar in a pinch--a tail lamp bulb and socket,side marker,etc...
I just snipped one socket off,stripped the wires,and used some finishing nails for probes...they light up on 12V fine...and I have LOTS of spare bulbs!..
You can use anything similar in a pinch--a tail lamp bulb and socket,side marker,etc...
No,the fuse box is best..the starter's wires will either be hot all the time,or just get power while cranking only--no good..and too hard to get too anyway..
If you happen to have a "extra" wire for an idle stop solenoid in the harness not being used,that one can be used to power the choke--its usually a green wire...if you use that wire (if one exists),then be sure it only gets power with the key in the "run" position..just to be sure its not some other wire..
If you happen to have a "extra" wire for an idle stop solenoid in the harness not being used,that one can be used to power the choke--its usually a green wire...if you use that wire (if one exists),then be sure it only gets power with the key in the "run" position..just to be sure its not some other wire..
CGT80
1/2 ton status
I have a craftsman test light that looks identical to this one:
http://www.amazon.com/OTC-3633-Mini-coil-Circuit-Tester/dp/B003YNHVQQ/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_text_y
It has worked great. The coil cord can be a pain, but the shape of the tester is nice in the hands.
Other people have left mixed reviews. It looks like OTC has the replacement LED lamps for it, but craftsman may not have them.
Electrical really isn't that hard, but it can be time consuming. Get a decent digital volt ohm meter, a test light, and some test leads with alligator clips, and read some basic guides on 12 volt DC electrical. I think my square bodies have dedicated fuses for the choke, but you can add your own to an ignition hot circuit. If your fuse is too small, it will just blow. I think mine is only 10 amps for my edelbrock performer choke. Too small is better than too big, but you eventually have to get it big enough to not blow under normal use with the right size wiring.
I'd recommend just going and buying a less than $20 harbor freight digital multimeter. No need for another item (test light). Definitely agree about the test leads with alligator clips, and you can buy the alligator clips separate to make your own, if you happen to have wire laying around.
Once you figure out how a multimeter works, you may find yourself doing a LOT more electrical stuff. And it can be useful around the house too, since they will do AC.
Once you figure out how a multimeter works, you may find yourself doing a LOT more electrical stuff. And it can be useful around the house too, since they will do AC.
Thanks for the replies. Because of my work schedule it will have to wait till next weekend. It's still warm enough here I can get away it for a while. With the new carb it starts easier with out a choke that the old one with a choke. Runs better every where else also , except the idle. Going to wait till it has a choke before I trouble shoot that.
Make sure you have the correct connector for the choke, depending on the type of element you have some have a special connector.
