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chop saw vs miter saw

metalneverdies

metalneverdies

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Is there any reason I cant just put a metal cutting "blade" on my miter saw?

What is the difference between a chop saw and what I have for cutting square tube or pipe?

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most miter saws won't handle the extra heat from sparks.

Its alot more work cutting through metal.

I have had buddies do it. Some make it last pretty good. But they all eventually burn up.

If the miter saw was free I say go for it but if you plan on using it or can't afford to replace it, use a swazall or grinder, takes some practice but go slow and you can get a pretty straight cut.

If you do it make sure to find the thinnest blade possible
 
chop saws are loud, stinkin, spark throwing, non straight cutting pieces of $#!*:whistle: Go to harbor freight and get the portaband for $75. It's not as nice as a dewalt or something but i've used the crap out of mine for all kinds of things and it has never failed me. it's quieter, cleaner, more manuverable, multipurpose, and cuts a LOT straighter if you know how to use it.:waytogo: Just my .02
 
When I start doing more serious projects I will look into something like that. I am just building a welding cart and table. Only a few cuts to make. I am just going to stick with sawzal and angle grinders/cutoff wheels for now.
 
Ive used miter saws to cut metal for years. Theres nothing wrong with doing it they're just not made to last like that. I used a $100 skil brand miter saw to cut metal for nearly 2-1/2 years. Its beat now for cutting metal as the resistance of the metal causes the blade to walk away from the center when cutting angle but the motor is fine and it still cuts lumber no problem because of how easy the blade goes through it.

That being said I just got my first chop saw this Christmas. Its a 15amp dewalt with the quick release clamp and a 14in blade. Its nice because it plunges further than the deck itself that you set the metal on so you get much more use out of the blade. I will add that it has left me wanting more as it seems if you dont pay attention while cutting angles that 14in blade will try to walk away from the cut.

My next step will be a cheaper band saw on a stand... It annoys me having to check squareness on my angle cuts and grind / file them to make the perfect. The chop is awesome for 90* cuts though cant beat it.

And a safety warning for you. If you put a carborundum blade in the miter when it gets worn out DO NOT try to squeeze every last bit out of the blade when it stops cutting all the way through by pushing on it. I almost removed my face via broken blade from said stupid move.
 
metalneverdies said:
Is there any reason I cant just put a metal cutting "blade" on my miter saw?

What is the difference between a chop saw and what I have for cutting square tube or pipe?
Click to expand...

I have the exact same saw with a metal cutting disc... have abused it for years, still works like a champ. What I no longer have is the dust sock, they end up on the floor in a fire ball if you dont remove them :doah:Having said that I also have a chop saw.
 
My miter saw is a Rigid brand. However, it looks just like the Delta you posted, but with orange where yours is blue. I've cut a good bit of square tube and angle iron on it. Sizes from 3/4" to 2", thin wall to 1/4" wall. It has worked great and makes consistent 90* and 45* cuts. When I cut steel, in addition to swapping the blade I also remove all the plastic parts and dust bag. Furthermore, it is very important to remove any saw dust.

I'm not saying it is the right tool for going into production. But if you just need to make a 100 or so cuts my experience has been it works great. When I'm done I clean it up, swap it back to wood cutting configuration, and make sure everything is clean and the blade is still square and true. I've gone back a forth a couple times and it still makes perfect cuts when doing trim carpentry.
 
shady said:
chop saws are loud, stinkin, spark throwing, non straight cutting pieces of $#!*:whistle: Go to harbor freight and get the portaband for $75. It's not as nice as a dewalt or something but i've used the crap out of mine for all kinds of things and it has never failed me. it's quieter, cleaner, more manuverable, multipurpose, and cuts a LOT straighter if you know how to use it.:waytogo: Just my .02
Click to expand...


What he said.
 
Been playin' around with an Evolution Rage 3 saw at the shop over the last month or so.

So far, i'm somewhat impressed with it. I don't think it will stand up to the demand that I can place on it in the shop.

Clamps are complete sh!t. Metal must be clamped in. Sometimes with a chop saw I'll cheat and not use the clamp but that won't work in this thing.

It cuts pretty good though. Very clean cut with almost not bur to speak of and the blade doesn't push to one side on an angle cut. Main reason I bought it was for miter cuts on round tubing.

Carbide tipped blade and each tooth has its own depth guide to prevent sinking it to deep to quickly. That's not to say you can just jamb it down into the material. Careful feeding seems to be the best way.

Youtube video,

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S0kaODy6gpA
 
I picked up an old no name horizontal bandsaw similar in size to the HF ones for $100. Once its set up, it cuts true and straight every time. Its definitely slower, but you can set it up, turn it on, and go do something else. And there's nothing to deburr.
 
I bought an Old Milwaukee chop saw a couple years ago at Home Depot. Floor model plus 30% clearance sale means I bought a $190 saw for $68.:woot:

There are definite differences in the chop saw and my dewalt miter saw: blade speed, platform metal, plastic used in the housings. I definitely would not use the miter saw to cut metal. I also found that if the blade is walking out on the chop saw, it's because I'm pushing it down into the metal too hard. My saw makes perfectly square cuts if I slow down and let it cut.
 
I have a Milwaukee dry cut saw and I love it. Cuts very easily, straight, less cleanup, and more accurate than a chopsaw.
 
OP... are you installing steel crown molding? If not buy the metal blade and cut, you'll be fine.Always wear full face protection :waytogo:
 
Evolution rage 3 saw is an interesting idea. Just not up to the task though. We've burnt two blades in about the same time it would have take to use maybe 3 or 4 abrasive blades in the chop saw.

They advertise the blades lasting much longer but, I don't think they plan on the saw being used specifically for metal.

Problems they should correct, first and foremost, the clamps. They are junk. The laser cut line indicator is in a bad position and within a few cuts, the lense is pitted enough to prevent the laser line from projecting. Obviously blade life is a problem and the one that caused it to be removed from service. We cut mostly round tube. 75% straight cuts and the rest miters. The saw does not appreciate miters. You cannot rely on the clamps to hold the work in a miter. It will slide or turn or both. On almost every cut the blade wants to flex just a bit on initial contact which makes a small cut next to your actual cut. Not really a big deal but causes some side loading on the teeth. They also need to address the vibrations on alot of the smaller hardware. Many of the smaller fasteners should be removed and some sort of loctite put on them or you'll be picking up pieces of the saw everyday. Didn't take long for the blade guard to stop functioning and force us to remove it entirely.

If you were cutting mostly wood with the occasional piece of steel, probably get a long life out of the blades. Cuts wood like butter.

I'll be shopping for a regualar mitering cold saw.
 
I think the Milwaukee Dry cut would last for your Kert. It's more HD and its the only one with the high hp combined with the solid cast base. Mine works great.

Dewalt has one but it's a stamped base. And Rage has an industrial version called the steel cut 2 or something that has a cast base but it has darn near half the HP of the milwaukee motor, which is important with the dry cut saws. My milwaukee feels solid. I can slice a blade width off 1/4" wall steel tube if I want and the blade won't bend. I haven't tried half a blade width, but I might be able to do that too, although the blade is probably .090"- .100" wide at the teeth.
 
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