Stupid oil pan rusted out on my 2012 Ram 2500 Cummins, which I bought brand new. Now with 73kmi on it. Really, 5.5years and the pan is rusted through? The last time I had a rusty oil pan was in the 80's on a 60's vehicle, and that pan wasn't painted at all from the factory. WTF is wrong here, this is a failure of not only the coating but had to put on top of really cheap steel, I mean a real steel pan even if bare shouldn't have rusted through in 6 years. And I spray wash the underside of my truck after every winter trip too.
I work at an OEM and so do many of my friends and family. WHen something goes wrong I watch engineers and managers beat up suppliers over 1 part per billion failure. Where's the engineers coming to my house to investigate "odd" failures. Oh yeah, this isn't an odd failure, almost everyone in rustbelt areas has reported rusty oil pans on their cummins for a decade, yet they keep putting these sh!!ty pans on these trucks.
And to top it off, they want $550 for an OEM pan from the stealer. It's a piece of stamped sheet metal for cryin' out loud!!!! There's two china aftermarket makers you can get for around $150, but...they are painted on the inside I noticed and after doing some reaserch I found after a year or two, the paint flakes off on the inside and gums up the whole motor. Real nice. (Skip to about 2:35 to see the power coat flaking off on the inside of the pan)
So I opted for a Stainless steel pan a company called SnoDepot makes. They make pans for many diesel trucks mostly bigger stuff like road commission plow trucks. You can pick it up from various diesel vendors or direct from them but they seem to encourage buying from vendors.
Very robust piece. 304 1/4" plate stainless. Shipping weight was 42lbs. Just what that cummins needs is some more weight.
Wasn't sure that pan was gonna fit, as they list is as fitting '03-7.5 5.9L and 07.5-09 6.7L. Mines a 2012, but the pan number listed from mopar is the same pan number from 07.5-2013 so I figured it would fit, and it does. But it's NO fun swapping pans, have to jack up the motor 5-6" and let the axle drop to full droop to get it in, or jackup up motor and remove transmission. Not a fun job and the pickup tube has to be removed blind and reinstalled blind as it will block pan removal and install, so you have to remove the tube with the pan dropped off the block and let it fall into the pan then you can get the pan out. Whatever's holding up your motor, you better make sure it's robust because if that motor comes down on you while your messing with that tube your gonna lose and arm or some fingers.
The stainless pan isn't cheap @$675 but it came with the gaskets you need for the pan and tube, on top of the oem pan those are another $90 so this pan is really only slightly less than $100 more than an OEM pan at the end of the day. Would have killed me to spend $600 on another crappy oem pan that would rust out in a few years. This pan is a bit of a tighter fit and is a wee bit closer to the crossmember and an axle rin than OEM, but it doesn't hit or rub, I twister her up on an RTI ramp and the axle is well clear of the front corner of the pan well. ANd while it's close to the crossmember under there, it never hits it, I can still get my finger between the pan and crossmember.
With the metallurgy and coating tech they have today, a rusty oil pan is simply criminal.
I first noticed it leaking, oozing really with a small drop on the floor of my barn right before I took a 1000mi trip a few weeks ago. I'm damn lucky it didn't blow out on me while on that trip. When on the lift afterwards I took the blunt end of my ratchet extension and just tap..tap..tap on the rust area and boom...oil started gushing out. I reamed out all the rust with that extension and I got a hole the size of a .50cent piece. Criminal. Just ridiculous.
I guess I shouldn't single out Chrysler, all the OEM's pull these stunts, known problems they just never address. Doesn't make it any less criminal though.
I work at an OEM and so do many of my friends and family. WHen something goes wrong I watch engineers and managers beat up suppliers over 1 part per billion failure. Where's the engineers coming to my house to investigate "odd" failures. Oh yeah, this isn't an odd failure, almost everyone in rustbelt areas has reported rusty oil pans on their cummins for a decade, yet they keep putting these sh!!ty pans on these trucks.
And to top it off, they want $550 for an OEM pan from the stealer. It's a piece of stamped sheet metal for cryin' out loud!!!! There's two china aftermarket makers you can get for around $150, but...they are painted on the inside I noticed and after doing some reaserch I found after a year or two, the paint flakes off on the inside and gums up the whole motor. Real nice. (Skip to about 2:35 to see the power coat flaking off on the inside of the pan)
So I opted for a Stainless steel pan a company called SnoDepot makes. They make pans for many diesel trucks mostly bigger stuff like road commission plow trucks. You can pick it up from various diesel vendors or direct from them but they seem to encourage buying from vendors.
Very robust piece. 304 1/4" plate stainless. Shipping weight was 42lbs. Just what that cummins needs is some more weight.
Wasn't sure that pan was gonna fit, as they list is as fitting '03-7.5 5.9L and 07.5-09 6.7L. Mines a 2012, but the pan number listed from mopar is the same pan number from 07.5-2013 so I figured it would fit, and it does. But it's NO fun swapping pans, have to jack up the motor 5-6" and let the axle drop to full droop to get it in, or jackup up motor and remove transmission. Not a fun job and the pickup tube has to be removed blind and reinstalled blind as it will block pan removal and install, so you have to remove the tube with the pan dropped off the block and let it fall into the pan then you can get the pan out. Whatever's holding up your motor, you better make sure it's robust because if that motor comes down on you while your messing with that tube your gonna lose and arm or some fingers.
The stainless pan isn't cheap @$675 but it came with the gaskets you need for the pan and tube, on top of the oem pan those are another $90 so this pan is really only slightly less than $100 more than an OEM pan at the end of the day. Would have killed me to spend $600 on another crappy oem pan that would rust out in a few years. This pan is a bit of a tighter fit and is a wee bit closer to the crossmember and an axle rin than OEM, but it doesn't hit or rub, I twister her up on an RTI ramp and the axle is well clear of the front corner of the pan well. ANd while it's close to the crossmember under there, it never hits it, I can still get my finger between the pan and crossmember.
With the metallurgy and coating tech they have today, a rusty oil pan is simply criminal.
I first noticed it leaking, oozing really with a small drop on the floor of my barn right before I took a 1000mi trip a few weeks ago. I'm damn lucky it didn't blow out on me while on that trip. When on the lift afterwards I took the blunt end of my ratchet extension and just tap..tap..tap on the rust area and boom...oil started gushing out. I reamed out all the rust with that extension and I got a hole the size of a .50cent piece. Criminal. Just ridiculous.
I guess I shouldn't single out Chrysler, all the OEM's pull these stunts, known problems they just never address. Doesn't make it any less criminal though.
