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Cleaning fuel tanks

Indy4x4Fab

Indy4x4Fab

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Has any one used C.L.R. to clean there fuel tanks out before? And if so what was the ratio you used?

Cleaning light rust and heavy slug out of a set of m818 tanks.
 
I've heard of people using it, straight without mixing it. I've also heard of people using vinegar, and muriatic acid (Pool cleaner) I hear the catch is that you have to flush it out with alcohol or mineral spirits and use a tank sealant, or the newly etched metal will just rust again.

I've even heard of people doing some kind of home-brew electrolysis rig to remove rust.

Some steel BB's poured in with the solvent would probably work awesome.

Whatever you do...don't smoke while doing it!
 
I thought about cleaning my tank but in the end I got a spectra premium tank on rockauto for $120 I think. The tank is made in Canada and is very well made. Well worth the cost and the hastle of trying to clean the old tank. just my 2 cents.
 
He's wanting to clean the two fuel tanks from an m818, not easy to buy brand new. The tanks have a little rust inside, but the biggest problem is the VERY old diesel fuel that had algae growing in it. Very nasty looking, doesn't even smell like diesel any more. (Not a pic of his truck, just same model)

m818.jpg
 
Been thinking of replacing all the lines with pex and reusable brass fittings. Not to sure on how the pex will hold up to the fuel tho may end up making all new lines from steel brake lines. Gimpy I see what you mean about that fuel selector valve and having to take the tool box off. In the end that thing will be getting moved to a better place, or my change it out for a big rig electric valve.

C.L.R. does nothing but make the goo softer and more gooy. So I porded a five gal. drum of brake parts clean in each tank and it started desolving the goo in thirty mins. I'm going to leave it in there for 48 hours the flush the tanks with water. We shall see how this goes.

Total cost so far 100 dollars for two five gal buckets of brake parts cleaner.

May end up doing some small scale testing at home with pex submersted in strait diesel, as well as a 50/50 mix of used oil and diesel, and 75/25 oil diesel mix, to see how pex holds up.

Oh and thanks Jeremy for for posting a picture of what it will look like when I bring it home from Michigan.
 
Some guys on a lawn tractor repair forum I belong to,used battery electrolyte to clean severely rusted gas tanks with excellent results...not sure how it would work on larger tanks,or if it will emcourage further corrosion after that though--they flush the tank out good with baking soda and water to kill the acid..

I have used laquer thinner to clean really corroded and gummed up old carbs and it works well--I have been wanting to make an electrolisis tank myself,to reclaim some rusted parts that would be difficult to sand or use a wire brush on,its not to hard to do and all you need is a battery charger and some washing soda,a plastic pail and some rebar for the anodes..
 
Each fuel tank holds 55 gal. of fuel. I will need a massive tank to dunk those in.
 
Indy4x4Fab said:
Been thinking of replacing all the lines with pex and reusable brass fittings. Not to sure on how the pex will hold up to the fuel tho
Click to expand...

dont bother. I sell Pex for a living. Most PEX manufacturers wont even let you use duct tape on PEX. Petrochemical based solvents eat it up. Gas and PEX would fail pretty quick.
 
digs said:
dont bother. I sell Pex for a living. Most PEX manufacturers wont even let you use duct tape on PEX. Petrochemical based solvents eat it up. Gas and PEX would fail pretty quick.
Click to expand...

THANKS digs
 
I've used the plastic fuel line off late model EFI vehicles instead of steel lines a few times,mostly on small engines on yard equipment...if that stuff holds up to gas it should be OK for diesel too...I've used 3/8" copper tubing for fuel lines too,though O have read that its not reccomended for that purpose,but I never had any issues with it--its better than flaky rusted steel lines !..
 
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