CK5
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Clever ideas for radiator drain valve

I have used them on my personal trucks for over a decade, and started installing them on some of the mixers at work back in '09 or so.
You have to snug them slightly with pliers to keep them from getting 'bumped open'.
 
The problem with that style,just like OEM ones,is the "handle" often spins freely instead of opening or closing the valve,its just a crimped over "fit" with no weld or braze,or solder,to maintain a good mechanical connection...

Many of my tractors and small engine powered things have the same type of gas shut off valve,and most of them have the handle fail,the crimp loosens up and it no longer turns the needle valve inside..

I have soldered a few brass ones and "saved" them,but in most cases the handle is steel or die cast crap that cant be soldered,welded,or brazed..I just replace them with the cheap plastic shut offs or a "good" brass one with a "T" handle instead when they do that..
 
I use these 1/4 turn valves. I've got them from Napa and also Evco. They work great for water and air. This one is 1/4" female pipe on both sides but they come in different configurations . KIMG0647.jpg
 
You could then add a 90 degree fitting and a barb and also a short piece of hose to get it to not spray all over the place.
 
The problem with that style,just like OEM ones,is the "handle" often spins freely instead of opening or closing the valve,its just a crimped over "fit" with no weld or braze,or solder,to maintain a good mechanical connection...

Many of my tractors and small engine powered things have the same type of gas shut off valve,and most of them have the handle fail,the crimp loosens up and it no longer turns the needle valve inside..

I have soldered a few brass ones and "saved" them,but in most cases the handle is steel or die cast crap that cant be soldered,welded,or brazed..I just replace them with the cheap plastic shut offs or a "good" brass one with a "T" handle instead when they do that..

Haven't had that problem with those. And I have a guy working for me in the shop who can swing a sledge hammer hard enough that he mushroomed a 4" shaft over a 1/16" for more than an inch down the shaft!!!

Like I said , I have been using these on the trucks here at work for close to a decade, and personal stuff longer.

And be careful how much stuff you leave hanging on the little pipe bung in the radiator, vibration will be amplified and crack stuff.
 
I had thought of running a ball valve, but not sure I trust them with the heat and pressure, at least on something this critical. Probably unfounded, they are used on all sorts of things.

I assume a "good" ball valve shouldn't have issues, but I also don't know what constitutes a good ball valve anymore.

I definitely like the thought of being able to direct it via hose into a container, and being able to start/stop flow easily.

I can assure you that a quality ball valve will be more than able to handle any temp and pressure a rad can throw at it. Do I have an example of said valve to provide right now? No...........lol
 

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