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Clocked my 208 today *Pics*

skratch

skratch

1/2 ton status
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Gorveport, OH
Well I figured a month and a half was long enough for my clocking ring to be laying around the house, so after class this afternoon I got it installed.

It was really easy to get done until the jack blew up and forced me to lift the transfer case by hand. /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif

The 1" body lift gives me just enough room to clock it in the highest available position.
And it only took some slight rearranging of the shift linkage to get it to work perfectly again. /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif

However now my front driveshaft is too short and with the Edelbrock headers it doesn't fit anyway. I found that the Edelbrock headers do not clear the driveshaft, and do not allow the shaft to be removed without yanking the crossover pipe off the truck /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif Thanks to Edlebrocks "commitment to quality" I have to have a custom y pipe made to clear where theirs won't fit even though it was "designed" for this specific chassis. /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif

518798_128_full.jpg


I have the flat crossmember and tall adapter to get a flatter belly, but I'll put it in later. /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif

518798_127_full.jpg


Here is what I gained from the side /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif

518798_129_full.jpg


The slightly re-arranged linkage

518798_130_full.jpg


See anything wrong with this picture /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif Thanks for nothing Edelbrock!
 
Looks good. How much clearence do you think you gained. Is there a place to buy the parts to clock it, or is it a custom thing you built? /forums/images/graemlins/bow.gif
 
I purchased it from DP 90K5 he has them made somewhere and sells them. (Ring and all the mounting hardware)
For as little as it cost this is a killer upgrade for those unable to go to another transfer case yet./forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif

I'm not sure, but if I had to guess I gained around 6" since the 208 hangs so low to begin with.
But with the crossmember I have downstairs I'll have a flater belly than it looks right now.

There were three spots I could clock it too and I guess the top one (The one I used) requires a bodylift to clear. I only have a 1" and had no problems at all.
 
how'd the 1" go together for you? you can dimple the floorboards if you don't have a body lift. Thats what I will be doing on my K5 since I have the 241 and the clocking ring as well.
 
The bodylift went in really easily. I have a few body mounts missing in the middle and 2 that had the bolts welded in place. Once I get some new cups for the missing one's I'll toss in all the missing mounts, but right now it's great!

Thanks for selling that to me /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
 
doing mine monday. looks good /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif

did you have shortie headers or full lenght? hopefully my full length clear the drive shaft /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
 
These are the Edelbrock TES headers, the headers themselves are great a pain to install but great. The problem is the crossover pipe that doesn't fit anywhere near where it should for a 4wd.
 
I hope to get myself one in the near future, as with the long ass wheelbase i have, it would sure be nice to clean up the bottom of the Burb for more room. Looks good /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
look good /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif I need to do that to my sub. if you don't have an body lift how high can it go with out having to cut a hole in the floor? also how much shorter was your front drive shaft?


thanks
 
you can go to the second hole of rotation without cutting a hole in the floor. I don't believe you have to cut a hole in the floor if you go all the way though, you just have to beat the crap out of it with a hammer. I will let you know tomorrow when I get around to installing mine. Thats on a K5 though, not sure if the floor is different over the tcase(my burb isn't here to compare).
 
Sled Dog told me you can dimple the floor on a rig with no bodylift and still get it to the highest clockiing position.

There isn't a lot of room then, but after going back out and looking at mine I believe he's right.

As far as the driveshaft goes, I was pulling the splines apart with 1" still needed to reach the flange on the case. And I only have 2 1/2" springs in the front.

I plan on going to a 4" spring this summer so I'll work on a new shaft then after I get the exhaust modified to work around it.
 
I'm going to look at the shaft problem with my 60. With a 60 and 4" of lift I know the stock shaft will work no problem, wonder what that extra space and height will do for it. I am going to change to a non-CV 1350 shaft but I'm curious.
 
thanks guys /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif about how long did it take to do the install??? also what about the pinion for the front and rear? also well a drive shaft spacer fix the lenght in the front?


thanks
 
correction, full rotation without body lift requires a hole in the floor, Directly behind the passenger seat mount. Effectively weakening said mount. Going to remove the seat and start over. Don't have the strength to bench press the 241 again. Oh well its worth it. If I used the factory 1" spacers it would work as I have it now, but thats just stupid.
 
I want one! I hope DP 90K5 still has them clocking rings later in the year cuz I am more poorer than ever right now. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif But I might do it the ghettofobulous way and drop the Xmember an inch, I think that will be gooder than having the Tcase hang lower than the Xmember as it is right now.
 
Yeah well with mine every inch will count so I'm not about to do that. Besides, no passenger seat just means no passenger to scream when you have to gas it /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
Got pictures of what is required for the full clock with no body lift.
208hole.jpg

Thats the hole I cut, and I also beat some metal around it but that was before I realized I had to cut. The hole in the bottom righthand corner is one of the former Passenger seat mount holes. This all would have been better done from below (less cutting due to seeing where I needed to) but I don't have the strength left to bench press that damn case down again after beating on the thing with a hammer for an hour and already lifting it up there 4 times.
208.jpg

That is the 241 installed in almost its final location. It will be like 1/4" farther forward when all is said and done. I didn't finally install it yet, because I put silicone on the damn adapter and after an hour and a half of messing with the whole shooting match, the stuff is dry already and useless. If I want to go flatbottom or move it up anymore(ie. higher clearance xmember) I will have to cut more or install a 1" body lift.

EDIT: in the first picture, the tcase is resting on the crossmember(well the factory aluminum skid plate to be truthful), I rotated it up and installed it for the second picture.
 
It only took me about 2 hours to get it done, I think it would have been less if I hadn't had to lift the case by hand.

I think the spacer may fix the length issue, but there still isn't a lot of spline left for droop then.

And I didn't lower my crossmember I left it up tight to the frame.
 
Only lifted it four times!

Heck I lifted mine a good two dozen times! Everytime I almost had it lined up one of the studs would slip out and I would have to start again. I'm sure my neighbors didn't appreciate all the colorful language floating out from under my truck. /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif
 
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