Clocking 208 questions...

[GsxrMike]

I am going to clock my np208 and I have a few questions.

1) How should I run the support that runs from the engine/tranny to the side of my tcase?

2) What kind of clearance should I maintain between the exhaust and the transfercase, floor, frame, fuel and brake lines etc.?

3) What is the best way to "adapt" my shifter to the new set up?

 

[Avery4jc]

I'm staying tuned since I have a 208 and like the idea of a flat belly.

Just throwing stuff out to get the creative juices flowing but have you thought about cable shifters?

 

[Stomis]

Hey I can answer this!

Question 1 I'm not good on seeing as how my truck didnt have that torque bar... Idk maybe its a 465 thing? Either way I've seen people simple modified them with some plate at an angle to drop the bracket sorta like this

______________
\ \
-----------------------------

Catch my drift

Clocking a transfer case up 1 of the 3 positions will practically give you a flat belly if you do what I did. Allow me to explain. By the time you build a crossmember to take advantage of your new found clearance your front output will be about 1.5in below the bottom of the frame. Now what I did was take a 2x3 piece of box tube, doesnt need to be so wide though. I notched it for front shaft clearance and bolted it up. If you build a belly skid based off this 2in drop you can have a flatbelly without cutting the floor etc. Obviously your belly clearance will loose 2in but I think thats a small price to pay for the work saved.

As far as exhaust goes its a bastard. I replaced my length of pipe infront of the transfer case with flex pipe to go over the front output of the case. If your really good with a bender you may be able to squeeze it by with some solid pipe but all in all I would recommend you plan on running both sides of the exhaust down the drivers side. If you have an adapter that uses an actually tranny mount rather than just rubber pucks this is really easy to tuck up. Depending on what kinda trans you have I suggest you get this adapter, it will make your life easier when it comes down to trying to switch sides with the exaust and keeping a flat belly.

Shifter linkage: I was really happily surprised when I found out that with it clocked one positions the linkage functioned completely normal with the rod adjusted as long as it would go. Your truck may be different and you may have to buy some threaded rod and drill it but I dont believe any fab is required to adjust angle.

Heres a shot of my clearance

 

[twoslo4five0]

here is mine.this is totally flat.exhaust is run down the pass side.im running a 2 and a half ton driveshaft in the front,there is a mount made of the clocking ring to mount to my seat bar and my shifter off a ford t case.the shift pattern is backwards.im also running a shorty on the pass side

 

[GsxrMike]

So you do you have your trans/tcase supported from the top by the clocking ring? If so, is that all of the support you have? It looks like you have some from the bottom as well. Could you snap some pics for me? I think it is a good idea! Also what size plate is that you have on the bottom? Thanks!

 

[twoslo4five0]

top and botom,stock adapter.im like 30 mins from my truck so pics are gonna be hard to come by.i belive the plate is like 5/16 or so.prolly weighs 25 pounds.look through my build there are pics there

 

[mrk5]

I pretty much did the same thing as Stomis other than I used c-channel for the crossmember. I built a sturdy skidplate to protect it.

I clocked mine up 2". I had to notch the floor, because the tcase would bump the floor on rough roads. I probably would have been fine if I had just a 1" body lift.

I've never had a support rod on my transfer case before or after clocking.

I built a 2" riser under my shifter and I bent the arms on the shifter and tcase so they were lined up at the same angle all that made the linkage basically level. Before I did that, I couldn't get it to stay in 4Hi and it would pop out of 4Lo on occasion.

I had enough room to run the exhaust between the frame and tcase. I use 2.25" diameter. I bought a couple of mandrel U & J bends from summit and I cut and pieced them together to build the exhaust. You can see what I mean in this pic:

I run duals into single muffler with dual inlets. The piece running behind the tcase is removable for maintenance.