clocking t-case with out body lift...

[smokkey1]

can I get away with having to do a body lift on my sub and do the full clock? I've been reading alot of threads and some say that the floor is different on an k5 vs an sub, pickup. there was someone on here can't think of the name but didn't have to do an body lift on his pick up.

I took some pictures. it's kind of hard to tell, but it looks like to me I can do it. maybe alittle beating with the hammer and it would fit. so what you guys think. I haven't seen what it looks like under an k5 so I can't tell the difference.

if you need some differnt angles I'll take some more.

 

[big83chevy4x4]

i have my tcase clocked all the way up and no body lift.

the floor on a pickup looks alot like that in the pics you took, it has that rib in the floor in almost the same spot. all i did was take a hammer and widen that rib and it fit no problem.

i did have to clearance a few other spots where the bolts are for the tcase, they rubbed on the floor and squeeked like crazy. just a few taps with the hammer solved that.

 

[smokkey1]

I was hoping you were going to chime in
from what I could tell when I was under the sub, the bolts looks like there going to hit the edge of the rib in the floor. so I'll probably beat the hell of the edge then. I just don't want to do a BL I rather spend that money on somthing else for the sub. but If I have to do a BL I'll do it cause I don't want to cut an hole in the floor. but I guess I'll know for sure when I clock it.

 

[big83chevy4x4]

you will have to beat that rib, the tcase sits higher than you think, the 2 bolts in the first pic will hit the floor if you beat the floor level all the way back, at least they did on mine.

i hate body lifts. lately ive had problems with the linkage geometery being off because of the angle of the linkage. im thinking about going with cable operated, a body lift would solve this problem as the linkage would be more straight.

i wish i took pictures when i had my tcase out last week

 

[smokkey1]

umm I didn't think about the linkage. do you know how much ground clearnce I would gain If I were to use the 2nd setting? I was thinking of doing that instead and that way it would help out with the front drive shaft angel and the clearce issue with the floor and shift linkage.

 

[xtrmjoe]

I clocked mine all the way on my '86 blazer. I did have to beat the floor a little and I also lowered the case about 1" to help the rear drive line angle.

 

[k20]

not sure, but i think you got a little grease on your t-case there.

 

[skratch]

The linkage may be a little tricky to get to work right, but I know there is room to do it, just a little beating here and there.
With a 1" body lift I didn't need to modify my linkage, just readjust it.

I have mine clocked all the way up on mine, with a 1" body lift and there is lots of room still.
With the flat crossmemeber it gives unreal ground clearence on my Burb.

 

[smokkey1]

I remeber reading your post when you did yours. do you have pictures of your new crossmember? I thinkin I might go ahead and do the 1" ORD BL after all.

 

[big83chevy4x4]

the linkage isn't that bad, i had to put it in 4lo and adjust it, 4 hi is a little before the spot on the indicator, and 2hi is not even in the indicator.

the problems ive been having is when in gear it pops out of 4lo, i think the main reason is my motor mounts are bad and allowing alot of movement. the reason im thinking about going cable operated is i don't like the shifter being off being off.

 

[smokkey1]

umm, I can always shorten the linkage. after you message the floor did it stop the rubbing for good? I'm still leaning towards not doing the BL but if all else fails I can put it on at an later time.

 

[big83chevy4x4]

yes last time i had the tcase out, at every point where it touched (the paint was rubbed off) i hit it a couple times and no more squeek