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Clocking tcase and keeping support brace

mrk5 said:
I don't think he's done a write-up, I just know I've seen him post about it several times. If you search his posts a bit, I know he posted a good explanation a while back.

Or just wait for him to reply again in this thread. :doah:
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I PM'd Twoslo, to not jack this thread anymore.
 
jekbrown said:
also not trying to hijack, but what is the consensus on these types of supports if frame flex is not an issue? My truggy is gonna be so overbuilt, I don't think the frame will be able to move all that much...

j
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The less you can keep your drivetrain from moving the better.
 
mrk5 said:
I think maybe you're right, but I don't see how that scrawny rod really keeps the tcase from doing anything. Doesn't really seem that rigid or strong. :dunno:
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Had this same convo, kinda, with my old shop foreman that worked for chevy end the era of that brace. A year after the trucks came with them they were told to remove them...... and later they were told to put them back on..... and then once again removed and havent been on since i believe. They really dont do crap according to him... hes been master certified for 20+ years and had his L1 for a while too.... dont worry about braceing it unless you do like a belly pan but i wouldnt even mount it to ridged b/c like covered before the chassis flexes..... sometimes you cant open or shut the doors. just run regular rubber bushings so you know its got enough room to move. just my .02
 
This is my 3rd Chevy truck of this era - 75 K5, 79 K15, & this 84 K5 - and none of my trucks have had the extra brace. :dunno: So maybe they aren't really needed.
 
I think it could help to have it run from the transmission to the transfer case, so there is more support there. It seems like there is a lot of force on the six bolts holding the transfer case to the transmission, any help holding the transfer case in place there takes stress off both. It also reduces the bending moment on the transfer case, because you have force holding it in place farther away from the tranny. It definitely will not hurt, and it should be easy. That is what I plan to do, I am just not sure exactly how yet. Doing it to the frame does seem like a bad idea because of frame flex. That is how I see it.
 
Why not use tubing, and go OVER the T case, rail to rail, and hang the brace off it? Flatten the top of the tubing for clearance.
 
I made a smiliar crossmember (bolt through a bushing like yours) but I made a crossmember that ran between the framerails and bolted straight on. It worked great(really stopped the t-case from moving) and transfered a little bit of vibes into the cab at idle and cruising around town, but on the highway it was pretty bad. I think I have some rear driveshaft vibes but after about 60 there were a considerable more amount of vibes in the floorboards. So if you attach it to the frame I would recommend more bushings. I think the second brace is good because there is a good amount of weight hanging behind the crossmember, my 203 stripped all 6 of the bolts out....
 
I had this same debate with a friend of mine that has been wheelin for years and is helping me work on my truck. He said that he has seen a few different cases where not having the brace has broke the t-case or the tranmission housing.

Another point for you to think about. A friend of mie has a 94 suburban on D60 front 14BFF rear, 44's TSL and we were climbing a hill one day and hammer down and blew his 241 in half. Well he orderd up a brand new stak III t-case. When we got in they sent some brackets that bolt to the t-case and then you build off of that bracket to mount the case to the frame. Now granted this case does weight in around 120lbs but you are still mounting it to the frame. They used just regular ole poly urethane bushings and have not had any problems. Another guy I know has a blazer with a 203 and 205 doubler and he did the same thing with the bushings and no problems. Both trucks have been put through HELL and tested really hard so I would say just mount it to the frame.
 
I went back and looked at your pic, yup I get it now. I don't see frame flex being an issue if the t-case is just mounted to the crossmember (in two places).
 
I know when Springer first started wheeling his Mazda 4 powered dual 208 rig , he had mounts off the cases . Ripped em off the cases wheeling .
 
mrk5 said:
I think maybe you're right, but I don't see how that scrawny rod really keeps the tcase from doing anything. Doesn't really seem that rigid or strong. :dunno:
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Old thread I know, but it came up in a search.

I think most everyone but maybe driney missed the point of the brace. The "scrawny" rod will not do much except in tension. We've discussed potential driveshaft thrust under load over in the COG forum and depending on the situation it can be quite high. When bottoming out the front shaft or just rapidly compressing it, it will push back on the tcase. Since the front output is offset this acts as a lever to pry the tcase from the tranny. The rod will help support the tcase against this driveshaft thrust load. It cannot not do much of anything else since it is relatively flexible in every other direction but tension.
 
jimmy88 said:
Old thread I know, but it came up in a search.

I think most everyone but maybe driney missed the point of the brace. The "scrawny" rod will not do much except in tension. We've discussed potential driveshaft thrust under load over in the COG forum and depending on the situation it can be quite high. When bottoming out the front shaft or just rapidly compressing it, it will push back on the tcase. Since the front output is offset this acts as a lever to pry the tcase from the tranny. The rod will help support the tcase against this driveshaft thrust load. It cannot not do much of anything else since it is relatively flexible in every other direction but tension.
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I have to agree with that. That rod kept my t case from totally blowing the front output completely off the t case when I jumped the truck last year. It cracked the case but it held together and was still drivable. You can see how I modified mine when I clocked the case in these pics.

K5%20stuff%20055.jpg


K5%20stuff%20056.jpg
 
Nice job clocking your case Wayne. What did you have to do for the shift linkage, just move the rod the drivers side of the levers?

It would be better if the brace was a straight rod so it will not flex lengthwise (get longer) when pulled on. Yes it will be difficult to use a straight rod with a clocked case. I just started clocking mine now so haven't got to the point of figuring out the brace yet.
 
jimmy88 said:
Nice job clocking your case Wayne. What did you have to do for the shift linkage, just move the rod the drivers side of the levers?

It would be better if the brace was a straight rod so it will not flex lengthwise (get longer) when pulled on. Yes it will be difficult to use a straight rod with a clocked case. I just started clocking mine now so haven't got to the point of figuring out the brace yet.
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I actually had to make the rod longer and had to make sure it cleared the driveshaft and exhaust. The linkage was simple, I just added a 3/16" plate. Kinda made it a wedge so it wouldn't have any chance at catching the t case. It shifts easier then it did before clocking it. The only thing I don't like is my crossmember and skid. It's all 3/16" and after hitting several rocks it's bent pretty good.

K5%20stuff%20054.jpg
 
if you still have the factory brace, just heat it up and bend as needed, as far as the shifter rod goes, find a longer rod and do the same, worked for me
 
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