So my 89 V1500 burb is giving me troubles. When coming to a stop and starting from a stop I am getting a loud clunking. It goes away at about 7-10 mph. I figured it was the front passenger autolocker going out, because I was getting a clicking that sounded like it was coming from the hub. So Thursday I changed out the autolocking portion of the hub with another one I had around. The old one spun freely and the one I replaced it with didn't. I figure this meant the old one was stuck locked and the "new"one was working properly. Well not only has it not stopped, now it does it in turns at speeds. I figured it was my passenger front because it was clicking while driving. Any suggestions or questions would be welcome.
CK5
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Clunking driveline
- Thread starter drumbound
- Start date
Brake rotors possibly? Or calipers/pads?
Replaced all calipers, rotors, drums, wheel cylinders, pads, and shoes upon purchase of it about a year ago. I thought the same thing initially, except for the fact that it started doing it at speeds. I would understand if it did it while applying brake. But it does it even when slowing down with no brake. When it is in 4hi the sound isn't there at all. So I am leaning towards something of the transfer case forward.
I assume wheel bearings too. What about front driveshaft or driveshaft u-joint?
Replaced and checked. Only U-joints I haven't replaced are from the double Cardan joint. That PO$ is retarded. If the clunk was still there in 4wd I would drive myself absolutely crazy. Luckily we get enough snow up here that driving in 4hi is feasible.
One more item to check, front axleshaft u-joints. The ones inside the axle tube themselves. To get to them though, you need to pull the rotors/hubs off and pull the c-clips off in the differential housing.
Grrrr, guess I will have to go rent a lift bay. Not gonna try to do that in the snow. Already 8 inches today, gotta love lake effect snow.
Front end work in snow is NOT fun.
You might be able to just pull off the tires and look at the axleshaft joint without removing. Might be able to turn the wheel one way and get a pretty good look at the joint on each side. Try wiggling a bit to see if they are loose or not. Much easier than pulling the whole thing apart......
Front end work in snow is NOT fun.
You might be able to just pull off the tires and look at the axleshaft joint without removing. Might be able to turn the wheel one way and get a pretty good look at the joint on each side. Try wiggling a bit to see if they are loose or not. Much easier than pulling the whole thing apart......
The u-joints on the Tire side of the axle shaft have been replaced, along with the balljoints. I was wondering, because I didnt recall a u-joint on the pumpkin side.
If you want to check the front axle components before you pull it all apart, drive around without engaging the front axle. 2WD in the transfer case and unlocked hubs. Since your hubs are automatic you may want to remove them to be sure that they aren't engaging. If the problem continues when the axle components are isolated, you can safely rule them out. If not, you've ruled out the other potential issues. And you didn't have to do any nasty snow work to determine this.
Question is, how to remove them and keep snow, salt, and all that crazy $hit they put on the roads out of my hubs. I can remove the covers and the autolocking portion, but the cover attaches to the autolocking portion of the hub. I guess a ziplock bag and ductape should work, even though it will look extremely ghetto. Any other suggestions on covering it up to keep debris out?
Worn out slip yoke in the front driveshaft.
Martin
Martin
Yeah, just use a plastic cup, an old plastic container or something duct-taped on. It's just for troubleshooting, not for mud bogs. My old man once crossed a couple of states with plastic bags taped over the front hub openings. Left home with auto hubs, returned with manual ones.
Or just buy a set of hubs locally and if you feel like messing with the automatic ones again in the spring (and you probably won't) you could sell the used manual ones (or place in tool box as spares). I'm no fan of buying parts for troubleshooting, but it seems like sooner or later everybody ends up doing this swap.
If this was a problem with the front driveshaft OR a front U-joint and you heard it in 2WD, your hubs are not unlocking. Also, a loose slip joint will vibrate at highway speeds in 4WD. They go bad all the time. The U-joint would mostly show up in corners, but can also do wanky stuff to how the truck steers.
Or just buy a set of hubs locally and if you feel like messing with the automatic ones again in the spring (and you probably won't) you could sell the used manual ones (or place in tool box as spares). I'm no fan of buying parts for troubleshooting, but it seems like sooner or later everybody ends up doing this swap.
If this was a problem with the front driveshaft OR a front U-joint and you heard it in 2WD, your hubs are not unlocking. Also, a loose slip joint will vibrate at highway speeds in 4WD. They go bad all the time. The U-joint would mostly show up in corners, but can also do wanky stuff to how the truck steers.
I had a worn slip joint in my 1988 V10 Suburban's front driveshaft. I only noticed it at slow speeds (especially in parking garages) with my manual lockouts in FREE.
Martin
Martin
They turn due to other things turning, just not at full speed, or with any power. NP205's are really bad at that.
Martin
Martin
It's the movement and viscosity of the gear oil probably. Many heads have been scratched and heated debates but on some rigs the front driveshaft does move sometimes with t-case and hubs open.
Yep.
Martin
Martin
