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Cluster

9

90GMCJim

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I want to replace my gauges. My bezel is cracked in a few places

Aftermarket bezel don’t sell for a 90 jimmy or blazer. Different radio setup?

As far as gauges any opinions on brands or type? Plug and play?

I really want to add a tach especially with 4.55 gears and 35’s. I think I’m about 7 mph off on the gauge. I know that’s a different fix

Thanks
 
dakota digital has different options for models

1973- 98 GM Trucks

Dakota Digital manufactures digital instrumentation and accessories for the automotive, motorcycle and car audio enthusiast.
www.dakotadigital.com
 
It's true that the aftermarket doesn't support the 88 or 89-91 1.5DIN radio bezel. You end up with the existing screw holes uncovered in the bottom right corner. You might check in with @folkenheath to see if he comes up with some ideas. https://ck5.com/forums/threads/1991...ndependent-twin-turbo-bbc.346086/post-4430391. It seems like a piece could be 3-D printed to make up the difference and glued on.

Also, if you don't want to go full digital, there are other ways to get a tach while keeping most/some of the factory cluster. Somebody here may have a bezel for sale in good shape or a whole cluster. Does your '90 have a VSS sensor or a speedometer cable? Think about that and the impact of losing your odometer before getting rid of the factory speedometer. Most of the digital solutions make you install all new sensors, rather than use the factory ones, but some of the factory ones are still needed for the ECM.

There are plenty of examples of guys cutting out the factor cluster to mount Autometer discrete gauges, so that's an option as well.
 
Blue85 said:
It's true that the aftermarket doesn't support the 88 or 89-91 1.5DIN radio bezel. You end up with the existing screw holes uncovered in the bottom right corner. You might check in with @folkenheath to see if he comes up with some ideas. https://ck5.com/forums/threads/1991...ndependent-twin-turbo-bbc.346086/post-4430391. It seems like a piece could be 3-D printed to make up the difference and glued on.

Also, if you don't want to go full digital, there are other ways to get a tach while keeping most/some of the factory cluster. Somebody here may have a bezel for sale in good shape or a whole cluster. Does your '90 have a VSS sensor or a speedometer cable? Think about that and the impact of losing your odometer before getting rid of the factory speedometer. Most of the digital solutions make you install all new sensors, rather than use the factory ones, but some of the factory ones are still needed for the ECM.

There are plenty of examples of guys cutting out the factor cluster to mount Autometer discrete gauges, so that's an option as well.
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I found a used bezel from a suburban that’s in great shape. I’ll just change the gauges. I want to change that big gas gauge for a tach and move the gas gauge over to the corner blank spot.

What’s the best plug and play setup for gauges? I don’t need digital.
 
tarussell said:
Ya could integrate a factory GM C-60 application tach and fuel gauge combo into your existing setup and still retain your OEM speedometer and VSS related parts.
Just throwing another option out there for ya.

View attachment 515789
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This is the way.
I calibrate my oem vss speedometer with a handy little adjustable drag module. Pretty sure I got it from our very own @sweetk30.
03069746-A57F-42BB-B7DD-261787EB2147.jpeg
 
I have Dakota digital. They are very, very nice. They were expensive. I have the GPS add on for speedometer, compass, altimeter. I think they are worth it.
 
obijuank5 said:
This is the way.
I calibrate my oem vss speedometer with a handy little adjustable drag module. Pretty sure I got it from our very own @sweetk30.
View attachment 515803
Click to expand...
The pic in my post is a setup I got from KENNYW and I believe that he originally got it from you ?

I love this setup - it’s one of my most favorite parts of all my cool Chevy junk.
 
90GMCJim said:
I want to replace my gauges. My bezel is cracked in a few places

Aftermarket bezel don’t sell for a 90 jimmy or blazer. Different radio setup?

As far as gauges any opinions on brands or type? Plug and play?

I really want to add a tach especially with 4.55 gears and 35’s. I think I’m about 7 mph off on the gauge. I know that’s a different fix

Thanks
Click to expand...

Just FYI, those clusters are selling for hundreds on eBay, I'd be extremely hesitant to cut one up. Your truck, your prerogative, but that cluster and the NP241 (90-91 only) is the easy answer for LS swaps, that plus their rarity has them getting a premium.

The C60 fuel gauge is the only way I can think of to get a tach without butchering the cluster. Not sure if you still have to cut the back out to clear the tach PCB. The lower left spot on the R/V cluster is not setup for a fuel gauge like earlier versions. There are no bosses for screws, and it's segmented into three "tunnels" for various indicator lamps.

DRAC adjustment: https://harristuning.com/Tbi/vssb-drac-calibration/

full
 
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FYI, USA1 sells factory-style tachometers. They also have the open backing plate, small fuel gauge, lens, printed circuit boards, everything you need to make/convert a tach cluster.

https://www.usa1industries.com/interior/dash-components/gauges/?page=1

1761131472036.png

LMC and others sell complete cluster replacements.

Many years ago I converted my standard cluster to have a tach by printing the tach and fuel scales on plastic film. I used the guts from an aftermarket tach (Sunpro?), which was hard to convert to take a stock-type needle (like shown above) and overall wasn't very accurate since the big needle weighed more. I just soldered wires to the flex circuit and ran them over to the fuel gauge. I didn't even have the proper lens for the extra gauge, I just plastic-welded a flat piece of clear acrylic or something into that corner. I bring that up just to say that you can hack another gauge in and have it look normal, it's just more work, but maybe you wouldn't have to start over and replace everything to save some money. Heck, After the bezel is on, there's no way to tell. Some are set up for a clock in that corner, which would be much easier.
 
What is your budget?

I can get Dakota Digital if you just want something that uses the factory bezel and is easiest.

Or you can convert to gauges like autometer, it's a lot more work but can save some money, I had converted mine to Autometer with an electronic speedo, I can get Autometer, VDO, Classic Instruments, etc. The autometer can compensate for any tire size or gear ratio, you just drive exactly 2.0 miles (I use a GPS), and press a button again, and it calibrates itself based on how many pulses it received.

Here is my old thread on that...


Either way you can use the factory bezel. You can also use a factory tach like others have mentioned, but they only go up to 4-5K RPM, they can also be slow to respond.

You can also use something like a Digital Screen, like Autometer or Holley Digital Dash, but you still have to mount it in the factory bezel because no one that I know of makes bezels for the 88-91 squares.

I am currently mounting a Holley ProDash in my factory 91 bezel, my plan is to use carbon fiber.

And the guys are right, the 91 cluster was in perfect working order with the electronic speedo, I couldn't bring myself to cut that cluster up, so I cut up an 85 cluster.
 
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Yeah, I was wondering how that tach behaves above 5000RPM. Does it stop there or act like my 85MPH speedo did when I was 18? :whistle: Shifting a SBC at 5500 is popular and that tach might indicate that fine. That's better than an 8k tach (IMO) because you can actually use the whole scale.
 
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We had a factory tach in the ole 77 at one point, it was sluggish compared to the engine and I just remember if you rapped the throttle or accelerated hard the engine would climb faster than the tach could indicate it, so if you are using it for cruise RPM that's fine, if you are using it for performance shifting, it's not the best option.

Some of the dual gauge tachs have little stops so they can't go further...look at @tarussell s pic right above the F..



img_4557-png.515789
 
The new aftermarket tachs won't have any electronics in common with the factory ones from half a century ago. The giant Chevy needle isn't ideal for response time, but we'll probably have to wait for customer reviews to show up.
 
Let me start by saying thank you for all the information and help

I would say im leaning towards replacing all the gauges. I’m not worried about the installation more or so what I would lose out on.
 
I am going with the dakota digital VHX guages.

I have the dash off and its going to get wrapped. i have some time.

Crazy quote from Justdashes of $1600-2000 to redo the dash.
 
90GMCJim said:
Crazy quote from Justdashes of $1600-2000 to redo the dash.
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Check out a guy local to me, Jake Corbin. He rebuilt my dashpad and seat and does nice work. Last I checked, was charging $850ish. The only would be shipping charges for something that large.

Upholstery Services | Corbin Custom Upholstery | Marysville, Everett & Seattle, WA

Transform your automotive, marine, or restaurant upholstery with Corbin Custom Upholstery. Contact us for expert service today!
www.corbincustomupholstery.com www.corbincustomupholstery.com

20250616_173854.jpg
 
kennyw said:
Check out a guy local to me, Jake Corbin. He rebuilt my dashpad and seat and does nice work. Last I checked, was charging $850ish. The only would be shipping charges for something that large.

Upholstery Services | Corbin Custom Upholstery | Marysville, Everett & Seattle, WA

Transform your automotive, marine, or restaurant upholstery with Corbin Custom Upholstery. Contact us for expert service today!
www.corbincustomupholstery.com www.corbincustomupholstery.com

View attachment 516033
Click to expand...
That’s real nice. I was quoted $1k for just the dash.

The seats…. I went to 1 place that does good work but he said the foam is glued to the frame. He doesn’t replace or work with foam. The guy doing my dash said he does replace all custom work but didn’t quote the seats.

I’m finishing my music so I’ll have the dash and rear panels to get wrapped. IMG_6128.jpeg
 
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