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clutch conv. subject beat to death?.....i know but sweetk30 chime in plz

cammeddrz

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i did a fair amount of searching and found conflicting info on the forum.
i have a sm465 from a 1976. (obviously mechanical) and i bought a hydraulic bellhousing, master and slave cylinders.

i was looking through my lmc truck catalog and it showed different part #'s for the clutch kits on the mechanical sm465 trans, and the hydraulic one

i haven't pulled the trans out yet. i wanted to have all the parts first

DO I NEED TO BUY A NEWER-STYLE CLUTCH KIT? the truck hasn't even had driveshafts put on it since i installed the trans and clutch 6 months ago. and would hate to have to go out and buy a whole new kit.
 
It's possible that the older clutch that they list is a Borg & Beck style clutch whereas the newer one is a diaphragm. I'm not sure the hydraulics will stand up to a Borg & Beck clutch.
 
A Borg & Back style will have 3 "fingers" that the t/o bearing rides against. A diaphram style will have 15~20 fingers.

I searched and searched but never found anyone that had successfully used a Borg & Beck style on a hydro set up.
 
Buddy has the Borg and Beck style in his truck with the hydro, just as soft as with the diaphram style. It's been in there for a couple years now, also used the same clutch setup on various other vehicles with no issues.
 
this is exactly what i was talking about when i said that i found "conflicting info" when i searched this forum:confused:

1 says yes
1 says no

i hope the answer is yes because i dropped a ford broncoII body onto the chevy frame and its a tight freaking fit around the bellhousing.......so i do not want to have to do this a 3rd time. due to no space around the bellhousing bolts dropping the engine in took 5 hours and i have done 40+ engine swaps so 5 hours is an eternity
 
When I swapped to a 454 4-speed in my truck, I originally had the heavy duty one in there, but for some reason the when the clutch was engaged (foot off the clutch pedal) the clutch fork hit the pressure plate. When that was in there, it had the same feel as the diaphram that is in there now. I had to swap to the diaphram pressure plate to keep it from hitting. Only thing that a bunch of us could come up with is the thickness of the flywheel for the 454. Buddy has the same exact setup on his truck, just a 350 over my 454.
 
here i am as requested. :doah:



i had a 3 finger b&b kit in my truck when purchased. the presure plate was 1/2-3/4 " to tall to clear the hydro fork.

so test fit and look threw the fork boot . if no fork hit presure plate then good to go. if fork reast on plate = bad kit to use.

i found this out when i had friend under truck tell me to push clutch when running noise went away. tryed 3 starters as figured it was bad starter.

good luck hope this helps. :D
 
here i am as requested. :doah:



i had a 3 finger b&b kit in my truck when purchased. the presure plate was 1/2-3/4 " to tall to clear the hydro fork.

so test fit and look threw the fork boot . if no fork hit presure plate then good to go. if fork reast on plate = bad kit to use.

i found this out when i had friend under truck tell me to push clutch when running noise went away. tryed 3 starters as figured it was bad starter.

good luck hope this helps. :D

i guess thats what i'll have to do. was it a clearance issue with pedal down, or pedal up?
 
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