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Clutch fork throw measurement *fixed*

I said basically bro... also said i'm not a machinist. I personally find it hard to believe that clutch tolerances are so precise that I am phucking something up? My system is logically the same as any other driveway, wrecking yard, GM clutch installing wannabe? I dunno, I can certainly be a prick and this might just be payback?
 
Dinner was brats so it was awesome.

BTW I just looked it up in my factory service manual and mine isn't working correctly I guess.

Here is what it says in the Helm manual.
7C-2
HYDRAULIC CLUTCH
1. Check the hoses for cracks and wear.
2. Check the cylinders for loose mounting screws and signs of leakage
3. Check the clutch pedal travel, it should be 210.8mm (8.3in)
4. Check the secondary push rod travel at the clutch fork, it should be at least 25.4mm (1.0in)
5. Bleed the controls and repeat as needed
 
Dinner was brats so it was awesome.

BTW I just looked it up in my factory service manual and mine isn't working correctly I guess.

Here is what it says in the Helm manual.
7C-2
HYDRAULIC CLUTCH
1. Check the hoses for cracks and wear.
2. Check the cylinders for loose mounting screws and signs of leakage
3. Check the clutch pedal travel, it should be 210.8mm (8.3in)
4. Check the secondary push rod travel at the clutch fork, it should be at least 25.4mm (1.0in)
5. Bleed the controls and repeat as needed

Thank you for your help, I will be up at the crack of dawn re-assessing the mess I may have made. Im certainly stumped for the evening :confused:
 
I said basically bro... also said i'm not a machinist. I personally find it hard to believe that clutch tolerances are so precise that I am phucking something up? My system is logically the same as any other driveway, wrecking yard, GM clutch installing wannabe? I dunno, I can certainly be a prick and this might just be payback?

Not sure what this is supposed to mean? All i'm trying to do is help you figure out what's wrong. :confused:
 
Not sure what this is supposed to mean? All i'm trying to do is help you figure out what's wrong. :confused:

Scott it has nothing to do with your help. I am confused how all these tight tolerances, coupled with the things I've tried could make the difference in my clutch disengagement?
I already said I take everything you tell me seriously and meant that. This is just one of those lost in translation deals, sorry it didn't translate right.
 
Yeah, the clutch fork you'd probably notice with the stamped steel design. They're pretty tough to. I doubt that's it, just throwing it out there as a possibility.

Don't discount the master leaking internally. Had this issue and boy was it mind boggling as to the issue. Also had a line that sucked air but showed no visible fluid leakage.

You'll figure it out. Sounds like you've taken a step back from it, probably a good idea. Good time to tinker with something else and let it roll around in the back of your mind for a few minutes.

It was the master... Thanks for the suggestions :waytogo:
 
I used a mighty vac hand pump on the vent hole in the m/c and pulled alot of air out of mine when I thought I was bleeding it. I also had trouble disengauging mine but after starting in gear with the clutch to the floor it wouldn't roll. It wouldn't go into gear starting in neutral. Beat the crap out of it all weekend and now it works.
 
I used a mighty vac hand pump on the vent hole in the m/c and pulled alot of air out of mine when I thought I was bleeding it. I also had trouble disengauging mine but after starting in gear with the clutch to the floor it wouldn't roll. It wouldn't go into gear starting in neutral. Beat the crap out of it all weekend and now it works.

Bleeding wasn't an issue for me. My original mc would only give 3/4" throw to my slave cylinder rod. New mc, bled easy and gives a solid 1" throw. Not sure what was wrong with the original, absolutely no signs of a problem.
 
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