clutch pedal question

[COCHEV]

So, the small post on the top of the clutch pedal that the MC connects too... can it be pressed out and replaced or at least rotated and pressed back in?

mine has a decent groove worn into it from years of use and it causes unneeded play in the pedal. today, i jimmy-rigged a small peice of plumbers strap in there to take up the slack and it made an improvement in my clutch dissengagement...soooo, i'd like to not be jimmy-rigged forever, i can see that if i could simply rotat it 180 it would fix the probelm. its been a while sense i've had one out so i can't remember if they are welded in there or just pressed in...

 

[sweetk30]

its pressed and welded in there.

if me i would just weld the play up and sand it back down.

 

[COCHEV]

its pressed and welded in there.

if me i would just weld the play up and sand it back down.

of course its presse AND welded

and i just love pulling pedals not

well, that was my plan B so looks like I'll be going that rout. it will def help. its amazin how a good 1/16" groove turns into more than a 1/4" pedal play turns into pushing the pedal ALL the way to dissingage. And yes, i blead the air out with my mityvac and did the little air bubble in the MC trick.

my little peice of plumbing strap made a noticable change. when i weld it up, i will make the fit even a bit more snug...

 

[sweetk30]

i took a good setup and made it better via a stock brake pedal plastic bushing for the cross tube to bolt and cut it down to fill 90% of the gap on mine when i was hydro clutch. also no squeaks.

 

[COCHEV]

I was wondering if something like that would work. so it was the same diamater?

I'm lookin at my LMC cataloge here and I think I'll also just order up a new bolt and bushing set. Its pretty cheap and I'm sure it could use it after 24 years of use

 

[sweetk30]

had to trim down width and little of dia but had it done easy with new razor blade and few min test fit.