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Clutch replacement- anyone pull the motor instead of the trans?

COCHEV

1/2 ton status
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About the same amount of bolts to turn. Most all your work is done from topside instead of under the rig, no awkward sm465 to play ballancing act with...:dunno:
 
About the same amount of bolts to turn. Most all your work is done from topside instead of under the rig, no awkward sm465 to play ballancing act with...:dunno:

I used to do this with smaller cars but never with these trucks because it's actually much easier and faster to pull the tranny.
I am guessing you never replaced an engine, it's not the bolts you turn but all the cables wires and exhaust that you need to disconnect and then remember to reconnect. :doah:
I used to do a clutch job on my blazer in 3 hours.
I took me a day to just disconnect a 350.
It took 4 guys 3 hours to disconnect a 350 and pull it out.
 
I've replace several engines. What I'm up against is a gravel driveway, a stock height rig, and no unboltable center hump. so I'm thinking some 3/4 inch plywood, my cherry picker and yank the motor and do everything topside. Just a thought...
 
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draining the coolant would be my biggest deterrent from yankin the engine. messy and time consuming.
then there are
fuel lines
electrical
exhaust
hoses
radiator

i can get the engine out of a chev in about 2 hours. i took the trans/t-case out of a burb on the ground, took about an hour and a half, and it had a frozen engine. so getting the convertor bolts out sucked.
either way is a pain with a manual trans. i would rather try lining up the input shaft by jiggling a trans, than rocking a really heavy engine. i hate putting in engines in with a manual trans.

its only 6 bolts and the t-case comes off. seperating them makes it alot easier
 
draining the coolant would be my biggest deterrent from yankin the engine. messy and time consuming.
then there are
fuel lines
electrical
exhaust
hoses
radiator

i can get the engine out of a chev in about 2 hours. i took the trans/t-case out of a burb on the ground, took about an hour and a half, and it had a frozen engine. so getting the convertor bolts out sucked.
either way is a pain with a manual trans. i would rather try lining up the input shaft by jiggling a trans, than rocking a really heavy engine. i hate putting in engines in with a manual trans.

its only 6 bolts and the t-case comes off. seperating them makes it alot easier

Yeah, I really dislike the fact that I don't have ANY concrete at my current place. It makes simple stuff a lot more difficult. Stuffing the last stick in my burb was a ball buster in the gravel.

I will procrastinate until I find a solution me and my back can can agree on...
 
It's not ideal, but what about sliding a sheet of plywood under the truck?

Rene
 
Yeah, I really dislike the fact that I don't have ANY concrete at my current place. It makes simple stuff a lot more difficult. Stuffing the last stick in my burb was a ball buster in the gravel.

I will procrastinate until I find a solution me and my back can can agree on...
Well, I have worked in gravel, dirt, really old falling appart asphalt, and really smooth concrete, and that is why in my last house I had an RV access all concrete leading to a 40x60 pad and I built a 14x21 enclosed Garage, seperate from my 3 car garage for my cars, just so I can work on my trucks.
In my new house there is more space but the PO put pea gravel instead of concreteing it, so I pulled all the gravel down to dirt and I am getting ready to pour concrete as soon as I get ahead with the expenses (been saying this for the past 4 years):dunno:
I will hopefully this year.
In the mean time I am back to working on gravel for my trucks since they don't fit in my garage plus I need the space for my classics, and my wifes car:thumb:
 
Yeah, but you could drive it up 4 of those drive on ramps for another 8" or so of height...and it's be safe still.

Rene
 
Ramps are a goodish option. Ugh, still not feeling the motivation. I'm getting too old for his crap. LOL!
 
Yup, I've seen "20" twice over and then some myself...

Rene
 
Hell,I'm dreading puling the 700R4 in my Suburban,cause I'm 52 and my better days are far behind me..

I couldn't even get the dam plow frame on it the other day,the former owner welded the frigging thing together in ONE peice,lift frame,push plates,everything!...:mad:..rather than cut it apart I tried to put it on in one peice using an engine hoist ,pry bars,jacked the truck up off the ground,etc..no dice,the swap bar is right in the way on the passenger side,and it was ALMOST on too!..
I had to quit and give up,as it got dark at 6 pm and I was BEAT..now I have been so sore I cant do anything comfortably--walk,sit,or move!..:mad:

I'm not in good enough shape to be wrestling with this kind of heavy iron any more,and I rather doubt those big sway bar bolts at the front spring pads will come loose,I've dealt with them before 20 years ago and gave myself a hernia and a backache that lasted months ,the one time I got one to come off without busting off the bolts or resorting to using a sawsall or torch...and I'd hate to bust my agates taking it off ,only to find the plow frame still wont clear some other obstruction..that would be par for the course when it's ME trying to do anything on my vehicles..



I need to find a younger mechanic who doesn't charge much I guess,or I wont get this truck done..been seriously thinking of just selling it, and let someone esle kill themself under it...:(..

I tried pulling a motor once instead of the tranny on a chevy pickup 4x4,we just unbolted the exhaust,drained the coolant,took off the radiator hoses and whatever wires and hoses would restrict the engine from being moved forward ,took the clutch fan off,and put a hunk of plywood in between the radiator and engine..we separated the engine and bellhousing and shoved it forward far enough to get the pressure plate out..it was not much better than taking the transfer case & tranny out,as we learned when we went to put the engine back in,that aligning the input shaft and the clutch disc with the engine dangling on a chian proved VERY frustrating!..

I have done a few clutches with a floor jack that has the tranny adapter in place of the usual lift pad--I bolted the "table" on the tranny jack right to the crossmember ,and unbolted it,and just rolled the tranny & transfer case cack about 6" or so,they were balanced near perfect,I put a peice of chain across the frame to hold the tailshaft up and make it safer to work under..these was no need to remove the tranny from under the truck so I figured that was the "best" way for that particular job...I have put trucks on 4 ramps to gain enough heihrt so I could roll the tranny out from under the truck,but soon learned my floor jack wouldn't pump up high enough to touch the tranny pan!--so if I used wood blocks to lmake it reach,now I was back to square 1--not enough room to get the tranny out from under the truck..(a TH350 in that case!)...

Today I would just call my friend with a shop and a lift,and ask him how many bucks I need to save up and bring HIM to fix a clutch or tranny...chances are I'll never own another manual tranny equipped vehicle as my left leg bothers me bad after just driving my garden tractor awhile using the clutch..
 
It sucks not being 30 anymore, pretty soon, I won't even be 40:doah:

im getting there too.... (38 in jan)



i have pulled the motor.. when i had 12" susp and 3" bl... i didnt want to yank a smc465/np205 from that height.. was easier to pull front clip, unbolt motor.. yank, replace and put together..

did it all in one night with my bros help and a 30 pack... was fun too... :woot:
 
A while back, I dug a fairly shallow trench about 6 inches or so and drove my stock hight 67 gmc pickup across it. The soil was soft on my back (I was dirty) and had the extra 6 inches to play with. It worked very well in this case, but then again, it did not rain either! I was only dealing with a three speed tranny, and was able to slide it out on my chest.
 

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