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Clutches

CyberSniper

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I'm going hydraulic 465. I have the pedals, the master cylinder, the reservoir, and the bare bellhousing. Everything else I need to procure (slave cylinder, fork, throwout bearing, flywheel, clutch disc, et cetera).

What do you suggest?

Pilot bushing or pilot bearing?

What brand of clutch?

What about the other stuff I'm missing?


Should I just go to the auto parts store and say I need blah blah blah for a 87K30 and hope they give me the right stuff?
 
CyberSniper said:
Pilot bushing or pilot bearing?

Should I just go to the auto parts store and say I need blah blah blah for a 87K30 and hope they give me the right stuff?

bushing, dirt will tear the bearing up. as for blah blah blah 87 K30, that will get you 32 spline stuff IIRC, so if you have a 10 spline 465, that will be a problem.
 
no he means 32 spline input, all sm465s that ive seen are 10 spline input.

k10 will get you a diaphram pressure plate
k20 will get you a 3 finger pressure plate

get a 12" clutch, the flywheel is the same.

deffinetelly get a bushing, they are cheaper (2 vs 15) last longer, and dirt will chew the bearing up like jeremy said.

alot of people like a LUK clutch, ive always used what ever is the cheapest.

i got a remaned 12" diaphram clutch kit for a 85 blazer for $68 at carquest.
 
diaphram is easier to push (linkage) but flatten out at high rpm. 3 finger don't flatten out.

ive always used a diaphram and never had any problems.
 
big83chevy4x4 said:
k10 will get you a diaphram pressure plate
k20 will get you a 3 finger pressure plate

is there a difference in the performance/durability of diaphram vs 3 finger?
 
Even a 32 spline output SM465 has a 1.125" 10 spline input...

As for style of clutch, I find the diaphram style engages smoother, lighter pedal and have yet to have mine slip. Every Borg & Beck (three finger) I've had has chattered and given me leg cramps...all without any appreciable difference in performance.

I have a 12" diaphram clutch behind my 6.2.

Rene
 
tRusty is right---

I had several three finger type 12 inch clutches go bad very quickly,they chatterred,and one lost one of the fingers and would not disengage after only two weeks after installation--Borg Warner had a run of bad rebuilts in the late 80's and early 90's,they started selling the 12 inch diaphram type in place of the three fingered ones.
.I almost put a hole in the floor of my K5 the first time I pushed the pedal down with the diaphram clutch,I could not beleive how easy it was compared to the other style pressure plate!,at first I thought something was wrong..I never had a problem in the 50,000 miles I put on the diaphram clutch--but I did have to yank the NP205 out of it twice to replace the splined coupling between the SM465 and the T-case,due to worn splines on the tranny output shaft eating the splines out of it---seemed like no matter WHAT tranny I had in that truck,(it had a th350 at first,that had no "drive" until it warmed up,that went 2 years that way!)it always had some kind of drivetrain dilema...:crazy:
 
The problem with diaphram P/P's that we have down here is that they seize up when the mud solidifies on the bellvelle spring . It seems that the mud/silt will freeze up the P/P if the clutch gets submerged in real deep mudd water . The only way to fix it is to pull the clutch out and use a high pressure water sprayer and you can see the spring release as the mud is hosed off .

The three finger style P/P's don't seem to be effected bythe mud like the diaphrams do .
 
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