Coarse or fine thread injectors

[hotpile82]

Heu guys
K20 suburban 1982 6.2 v8 diesel

I'd made a post about bleeding air from my fuel system. I think I have a leak somewhere. I was gone for a month for work (month on month off schedule is sweet.) I'm thinking there's a s all leak. On my initial post I mentioned I could get 5 out of 8 injector lines cracked. The others are way to stiff and I was worried about snapping them.

So I think I found some injection lines. They're due for a change. But! Injectors. There's a long and short and the difference is fine vs coarse thread. I'm on ebay and Amazon and some site have 1983 to 1991 or these only fit 6.5 diesels etc etc....
How can I find out what I have without pulling injector out?
I'd rather have all my parts and give 'er instead of leaving systems open to atmosphere.

Has anyone managed to order from a reliable supplier that can also ship to Canada. Obviously coarse and fine thread aren't Interchangeable, but how do I know what I have?

Thanks for tips.
I can get it the truck started by cracking lines (5 of 8) and bleeding and starting it but after x amount of days the fuel seems to drain back somewhere. But there's no visible leaks or wetness... I hate touching fuel systems exactly for this reason!
Cheers guys

 

[tRustyK5]

82 was the only year for coarse thread injectors. If you want to make sure, pull one of the injectors out and have a look...you said you were able to crack the lines on 5 of 8 right?

I like Rock Auto for stuff, especially since I'm also in Canada. Fast, easy, and way cheaper than local parts places in my experience.

1982 CHEVROLET C10 PICKUP 6.2L 379cid V8 DIESEL Fuel Injector | Shop Now at RockAuto

Fuel & Air Parts and More for Your 1982 CHEVROLET C10 PICKUP at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.

www.rockauto.com

 

[hotpile82]

82 was the only year for coarse thread injectors. If you want to make sure, pull one of the injectors out and have a look...you said you were able to crack the lines on 5 of 8 right?

I like Rock Auto for stuff, especially since I'm also in Canada. Fast, easy, and way cheaper than local parts places in my experience.

1982 CHEVROLET C10 PICKUP 6.2L 379cid V8 DIESEL Fuel Injector | Shop Now at RockAuto

Fuel & Air Parts and More for Your 1982 CHEVROLET C10 PICKUP at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.

www.rockauto.com

Correct 5 of 8 I was able to get off. One that I tried to loosen the injector turned with it. I'm 75% sure that's the source of my issue. Coz I've got an electric lift pump and 5 of 8 isn't bad for bleeding. And still, you hear it trying to start then not, plenty of smoke. Anyways...
Yeah rock auto I always forget about. It's 82 so I'm going to bet it's coarse thread. Someone said in another forum you can see if it's a long injector (which would be fine thread) or short injector (which would be coarse) but didn't say what the tell tale signs of either one was.

I'm in quebec and it's getting cold fast here and I can't stand to hear my starter turn over so much lol.
Appreciate the link! I've got injection lines ordered now I need injector, and the removal tool, which is apparently a 30mm socket.

 

[hotpile82]

The main issue is that rock auto, and other sites and apps, mentions coarse threads (out of stock) so am I to assume unless it mentions specifally that it's coarse thread specifically, then theyre fine threads? Darn. Just don't want to order the wrong stuff

 

[tRustyK5]

Looks like of the three listed, only the Cardone one is out of stock, the other two are available and the pic shows coarse thread.

 

[sweetk30]

Best to pull one to verify what you have and need . Almost 43 years of possible someone swapped stuff from factory / original.

 

[hotpile82]

True. I ended up ordering the coarse.
What part is fine thread anyway? The threads into the head? Or the part the fuel line threads into, at the top of the injector

 

[sweetk30]

if i recall its the body to the head .

 

[hotpile82]

Hmmm yeah, in that case I highly doubt someone went through the trouble of drilling a bigger hole, tapping NF instead of NC threads....could've changed the head though. I'll check but just looking at the rest of of the maintenance done on the truck, I highly doubt it...

 

[hotpile82]

its finally done. ( i work month on n month off, so things take me a while). I had to take a hacksaw tonthe 3 injectors lines i couldn't crack. They were stiff! And even in a vice, had to brace myself to break them loose.

Driver side injector nearest firewall number 7, that was one i couldnt get loose. But when it came out, the copper oring or washer, which you could clearly see, theyre were all smushed a bit, normal, but on number 7 it was black. I went back to make sure it stuck in the block. Not sure how to interpret that.
Number 5, passenger side was leaking at the pump. So took it off cleaned re installed but days are getting short so ran out of time. So didn't have time to finish.
Anyways, i pulled glow plugs to have tell tales for bleeding fuel, and I broke the darn glow plug wire for number 1.

I traced it back to the firewall, and saw where it came from.
Its this..... angry looking mess. (Original harness?) Again it was dark so I couldn't see all that well, but I've got a wire yellow or orange ending in... I don't even know what. And then the 4 GPs (green) and one coolant temperature sensor (i think) coming out of this blob of solder and old as hell wire ending....

So how could I fix this? Strip back my GP wire and solder it back into the blob?
I feel like there's a better way. Especially considering there's supposed to be fusible links in these wires, which means I've been driving round in a fire hazard all this time? I'll have a better look tomorrow.

Just in case GP system is in question.
Turn key, GP light on dash, clunk of relay on driver side fender, for 10 ish seconds, start up, a bit of GP after glow (depending on temperature) and off we go.
The controller is that dark Grey monolith threaded into the block directly into block touching prestone. Its new ish, changed it back in 2021 or 2022.

Anyways, I was hoping, to just make a Tee connection off of another GP wire like number 3. But I'm sure that won't work... that's a lot of voltage and amperage.

If it is repairable, internet has lotsa stuff for 6.5 but not so much 6.2s, how would I go about it. With a "homemade harness".

Thanks guys, electrical is always a PITA

 

[kennyw]

its finally done. ( i work month on n month off, so things take me a while). I had to take a hacksaw tonthe 3 injectors lines i couldn't crack. They were stiff! And even in a vice, had to brace myself to break them loose.

Driver side injector nearest firewall number 7, that was one i couldnt get loose. But when it came out, the copper oring or washer, which you could clearly see, theyre were all smushed a bit, normal, but on number 7 it was black. I went back to make sure it stuck in the block. Not sure how to interpret that.
Number 5, passenger side was leaking at the pump. So took it off cleaned re installed but days are getting short so ran out of time. So didn't have time to finish.
Anyways, i pulled glow plugs to have tell tales for bleeding fuel, and I broke the darn glow plug wire for number 1.

I traced it back to the firewall, and saw where it came from.
Its this..... angry looking mess. (Original harness?) Again it was dark so I couldn't see all that well, but I've got a wire yellow or orange ending in... I don't even know what. And then the 4 GPs (green) and one coolant temperature sensor (i think) coming out of this blob of solder and old as hell wire ending....

So how could I fix this? Strip back my GP wire and solder it back into the blob?
I feel like there's a better way. Especially considering there's supposed to be fusible links in these wires, which means I've been driving round in a fire hazard all this time? I'll have a better look tomorrow.

Just in case GP system is in question.
Turn key, GP light on dash, clunk of relay on driver side fender, for 10 ish seconds, start up, a bit of GP after glow (depending on temperature) and off we go.
The controller is that dark Grey monolith threaded into the block directly into block touching prestone. Its new ish, changed it back in 2021 or 2022.

Anyways, I was hoping, to just make a Tee connection off of another GP wire like number 3. But I'm sure that won't work... that's a lot of voltage and amperage.

If it is repairable, internet has lotsa stuff for 6.5 but not so much 6.2s, how would I go about it. With a "homemade harness".

Thanks guys, electrical is always a PITA

The glow plug harness has 1 large wire off the solenoid spliced with 4 smaller wires off the glow plugs for each side of the motor.

 

[hotpile82]

The glow plug harness has 1 large wire off the solenoid spliced with 4 smaller wires off the glow plugs for each side of the motor.i endeared having a connector that fit the 10 G in one end and 4 smaller, 14G in the other, crimped it, heat shrieked n taped it off

 

[joshuak]

…
I feel like there's a better way. Especially considering there's supposed to be fusible links in these wires, which means I've been driving round in a fire hazard all this time? I'll have a better look tomorrow.….

Yes on there being fusible links in the wires, on one of mine they had started to melt together.

If it is repairable, internet has lotsa stuff for 6.5 but not so much 6.2s, how would I go about it. With a "homemade harness".

Thanks guys, electrical is always a PITA

Homemade harness is not difficult, fun winter project.



Replaced fusible links with ATC style fuses.