Can a code 22 (throttle position sensor voltage low) be caused by a bad battery? I just swapped out my battery b/c the other one was bad. It had a code before I swapped batteries but I didn't check to see what code.
CK5
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code 22 on TPI
- Thread starter 85 Jimmy
- Start date
Could be a lot of things. Charging system and battery can cause havoc with EFI as they like a steady supply of power and things don't work right out of that range.
Look in stickies and get the TPI pdf, read the codes to see what's there and the pdf will show how to diagnose each code/circuit.
You'll have to run/drive it awhile as when you changed battery's you cleared codes.
Look in stickies and get the TPI pdf, read the codes to see what's there and the pdf will show how to diagnose each code/circuit.
You'll have to run/drive it awhile as when you changed battery's you cleared codes.
I got to work this morning and checked all data and it has the same stuff that the link you posted has.
I figure when I get home I'll disconnect the battery to reset the codes, then see if it's still there. Then when it's running unplug the IAC and see if that changes the high idle.
So code 22 is there still? It could be a bad TPS or voltage to TPS. Since this is a conversion into your blazer there may be an issue with 5 volt reference siganl to TPS. You can check with Digatal volt meter DVM with key on engine off should find one wire with 5 volts. Another wire will send voltage back to ECM, check it and should be about .54 volts at idle and slowly and smoothly increase up to about 4.9 volts WOT with no glitches, jumps etc... indicating a bad TPS.
I haven't cleared the code yet, I'm still at work. It's an adjustable tps and when I first installed it I set the tps to within specs and haven't touched it. I parked the truck around October and it ran fine with no codes, then swapped my body on the truck and now it has a code.
My buddy has a modis I tried hooking up to see if I could look at the live data and the vin street and performance told me to use didn't work. At the time I didn't think anything of it b/c it ran fine. You wouldn't happen to no a vin I can put in the modis that it will recognize do you? I'm running a 1227727 ecm
My buddy has a modis I tried hooking up to see if I could look at the live data and the vin street and performance told me to use didn't work. At the time I didn't think anything of it b/c it ran fine. You wouldn't happen to no a vin I can put in the modis that it will recognize do you? I'm running a 1227727 ecm
So I think I figured it out. I cleared the code 22 and it didn't come back. Then I took out the IAC and pushed in the solenoid and pulled it back out to free it up. Well it cranked and ran normal. Then I turned off the engine and fired it back up and it was idling high again. Does that mean I need a new IAC?
There's just so many that use that ECM and differant mask ID. Do you know what year the motor ECM came out of or mask ID of chip?
My scan tool I can pick a year for car, can you try like 1988 to 1992 camaro?
Could be but they usually gook up, hold it pintle side down and flush with brake clean, blow it out and then a light oil. Not with pintle up so moiusture wicks into electronic end.
If you cross A and B on ALDL like you do for codes it should drive IAC all the way closed, to see if it's working.
Ok, so the code 22 is still there. Checked and it does have 5.4 volts on the blue wire. I tried to reset the TPS's location, but when I adjust it the voltage stays the same. Does that mean it's a bad TPS? If it does mean it's bad, would that be why my IAC is holding open too much?
I don't think the IAC is bad now. I pulled it out and pushed the button in, then I turned the key on and it moved out. So to me that means it's working, Right?
I don't think the IAC is bad now. I pulled it out and pushed the button in, then I turned the key on and it moved out. So to me that means it's working, Right?
May have had the DVM on wrong setting, it should read no more than 5 volts on one wire and .54 on another. The wire with .54 should swing smoothly to almost 5 volts WOT.
Sounds like it. Cross A and B on ALDL port and it should push all the way in.
You could watch this on a scan tool or if you had a cable and get TunerPro RT on a laptop. 2 things you really need to see codes, watch sensors and record data for tuning.
It was a bad TPS, tested the old one, from idle to WOT there was no change.
I forgot that I had another TPS, slapped it in there, set it, cranked it up and the code cleared itself. By the time I cranked the engine up and walked out to check the SES light (it's under the hood) it had already cleared.
Would you stick with AC Delco when getting a new TPS or does it matter?
Oh, and when I jumpered the A and B it didn't suck the IAC button in, it pushed it out and I had to go searching for it and the spring...
I forgot that I had another TPS, slapped it in there, set it, cranked it up and the code cleared itself. By the time I cranked the engine up and walked out to check the SES light (it's under the hood) it had already cleared.
Would you stick with AC Delco when getting a new TPS or does it matter?
Oh, and when I jumpered the A and B it didn't suck the IAC button in, it pushed it out and I had to go searching for it and the spring...
D'oh!
It's supposed to be done while in TBI and it is supposed to go all the way out to close off IAC passage... so it's working.
I did that once on my test bench in shop, it's amazing how far they fly...I like AC Delco parts and use them from junkyard before I buy new aftermarket...
