colbystephens' '73 blazer build!

[colbystephens]

ok, got the new body and so i decided to start a new build thread for it!

the plan is to replace my rusty current body with this '73:

this truck has some rust, but it's all very minor and serviceable. here it is after i cleaned it up today:

got a real nice hood out of the deal, but the fenders and core support are crap:

to whoever it was on ck5 who said it's easy to move a truck body with 4 guys must be one gigantic SOB and have 3 gigantic friends! with 5 decent size guys, we had a HELL of a time getting that b!tch off the trailer. the guy had a forklift to load it... he gave me a frame for it too, tho he didn't originally plan to do that.

the plans:

• full roll cage
• integrated sliders
• shackle flip
• soft top
• pick-up tailgate
• herc. the interior.
• repaint.... tho not with rattle cans this time.
• move the batteries into the rear floor much like what tRustyk5 has done.
• etc.

i have the soft top already, but the rest i still need to collect/fabricate. i think i'll keep the truck the olive green color... i really like that color. there is some surface rust on the front floors, but i think that if i get the flap-disc out and clean it up and then paint with POR15, i'll be good to go. they are really solid, just kinda ugly at this point. there's some rust above the rear wheel wells, so i think i'll graft some new metal into those points because i likely won't be going to bigger tires very soon, so i don't want to trim too soon.

what do you think about drilling out all the rivets in the new frame and replacing them with grade 8's and ny-tip bolts?

i'd appreciate other tips/ideas... so post up!

 

[mr250twostroke]

Wow, just saw this. CONGRATS, im jealous.

 

[Xtremegmc80]

TAG.. im defentily am watching this..

 

[AJMBLAZER]

Are you disassembling the frame?

If not, and unless they're somehow damaged, I wouldn't dink with the frame unless you plan on taking it apart in the future.

I guess it's how much work you want to put into it and if you feel you're going to use it in the future.




SUBSCRIBED.

 

[chevy wrangler]

awesome it is gonna be sweet when your done with it

 

[colbystephens]

Are you disassembling the frame?

If not, and unless they're somehow damaged, I wouldn't dink with the frame unless you plan on taking it apart in the future.

I guess it's how much work you want to put into it and if you feel you're going to use it in the future.




SUBSCRIBED.

ok, i'll just clean it up and paint it then. any reason in particular that you wouldn't recommend that i screw with the frame?

___________________________________

ok, let's talk RUST REPAIR!

i started removing the rust today. i ground out the rust from the driver's foot well and bed rail. verify this for me, but i think i got it ground down enough to put POR15 on it, then some body filler to smooth it out, then prime and ultimately paint it.

here it is after grinding it down:

the spot "x'ed" out with tape needs to be cut out and replaced. i checked the other side and there's no where else in the floor that needs cut out and replaced.

here's a pic for perspective - the passenger side hasn't been ground out yet, so the driver's used to look like this:

i want to fill in all the holes in the floor, including the seat mount holes because i'm going to mount my seats to the cage. how do you recommend i fill these holes? is body filler enough, or...? pen for persepctive:

i was thinking i'd clean out the bolt holes real well, install a bolt and then grind the head off of it... is that a good idea?

seems common for these tubs to rust around the bolt holes for the topper, so i ground those down too. i might need to use a bit of body filler to flatten them out tho. i think i'm going to remove the cage nuts alltogether since i'm going to be permanently installing the soft top. those cage nuts are always rusty, so i figure if i get them removed, they can't spread their cancer.

what are these? there's 4 of them in the bed, and i want to remove them since i won't be putting a stock rear seat back in...

how do you remove the retractable portion of the seat belts? i can't figure that one out.

i'm encouraged by the small amount of rust i'm dealing with. one more good session of grinding and all have almost all of it gone. replace a few pieces of metal and i'll be in GREAT shape!

 

[AJMBLAZER]

I just figure don't mess with it unless you have to.
However if you plan on having to remove a crossmember or two for some reason in the future you might convert that to the bolts now.

If you're good with the welder you can just fill the holes with weld and then grind it flush...I'd just manage to put a big hole in the floor.


The floorboards look very POR15'able. Make sure you use their degreaser and rust convertor on them though. If you use that stuff first it'll work well...if you don't...it's hard to say.

 

[colbystephens]

The floorboards look very POR15'able. Make sure you use their degreaser and rust convertor on them though. If you use that stuff first it'll work well...if you don't...it's hard to say.

great! that makes me happy. when i put the POR15 on there, will the surface be smoothish after application? since i'm going to herc. the floor, do you think that i'd even need to add body filler to smooth it out, or would the herc simply make a nice coat over the bumpy surface?

 

[AJMBLAZER]

POR15 self levels, so you won't get many brush or roller traces, but it doesn't smooth out a rough surface all that much.

I forget the recoat time but definitely make sure you have enough time to apply the coat or two of POR15, let it sit for the recommended time, and then start on the Herculiner. Every time I've done POR15, Chassis Saver, or Herculiner I've ended up sitting in a garage or hangar at 2am or later putting on the final coat. Occasionally with work the next morning.
If the POR15 sits too long you won't be able to get much to stick to it as it's very smooth. If that happens you have to break out the sander.

I wouldn't bother with the body filler. I've got most of the exterior of my Tracker Herculined and you can't even tell which parts were smooth metal and which were pitted with rust. Do at least two coats though. The more the better.

 

[colbystephens]

I forget the recoat time but definitely make sure you have enough time to apply the coat or two of POR15, let it sit for the recommended time, and then start on the Herculiner. Every time I've done POR15, Chassis Saver, or Herculiner I've ended up sitting in a garage or hangar at 2am or later putting on the final coat. Occasionally with work the next morning.
If the POR15 sits too long you won't be able to get much to stick to it as it's very smooth. If that happens you have to break out the sander.

that is a GREAT tip! thanks!! i don't think i'll be able to do it all at once tho, so what grit sand paper do you recommend i use? can i use a sanding block, or will i need to pick up a DA sander? i'd rather keep cost low on the tool end, but i suppose HF would have something cheap.

________________________

NEW QUESTION: when i go to cut out the rockers and rocker boxes to install/build the integral sliders, do i need to brace the door frame from front to back to prevent the body from buckling?

 

[colbystephens]

well, i got the extension cord for my welder today, so i also went and picked up a small piece of sheet metal to patch the floor. i'm on my way to pick up the POR15 system at Industrial Finishes and then i'll be doing some work this after noon!! still gotta grind out the floor on the passenger side tho.

 

[smalltowncowboy]

the holes in the floor i would weld up

the bed rails, your bolt idea sounds like a good idea

the little posts sticking up from the floor, no clue dude

 

[smalltowncowboy]

how do you remove the retractable portion of the seat belts? i can't figure that one out.


the plastic cover pulls up on it and theres 1 bolt holding it on. the plastic can be a pain to lift sometimes.

 

[Izzy]

Rust Prevention

I dont know and personally have not let my project get out in the elements yet, but POR15 verses Rust Bullet. They are basically the same thing, with one or two differences. POR15 way to much prep, not UV friendly. Rust Bullet barely any prep, uv friendly, but not the cheapest stuff out there. I used Rust bullet on mine and have yet to see what is gonna happen since mine is still in the shop awaiting a multitude of crap.. lol. I have had buddies of mine swear by POR15 the only thing they hated was the prep in order to do it. I introduced them to Rust Bullet and they were pissed they did not find it before the POR15.. Thats my 2 cents

 

[colbystephens]

well, i'm in process of POR15-ing the front of the cab... it's late, and i've not even gotten to the painting part yet, so, needless to say, it's going to be nearly an all-nighter! while there is a lot of prep going into it, it gives me piece of mind to have done the prep... i think i would have been a bit uncomfortable not doing any prep if i'd used rustbullet. i picked up the POR15 system for $66 today... pretty good price, i think.

here's what i did today:

i cut out the rusted floor board and welded in a new piece. sheetmetal is freaking HARD to weld! i kept burning holes and whatnot. probably doesn't help that this was the first time i used my new welder and that i didn't cut the replacement to the proper shape so i was trying to fill in ALOT of gap space. anyway, i ground it down and it's not horrible to look at, but with some body filler and the herculiner over it, you should barely be able to tell it's even there! surely not show-truck quality tho...

here's the rotted out portion all removed. that was a bitch.

all patched up:

one good tip i learned today is that for stripping, getting the blue flap discs is most DEFINITELY the way to go. zirconi, i think is what they are, iirc. anyway, i went thru 2 red ones last nite cleaning the driver's side up and it took a LONG time. today i got after the passenger side and had it stripped and ready to go in under an hour! it's worth the price difference!

so i started doing the POR15 late this evening.

i started by using the "marine clean." sprayed it on and scrubbed it down really good a couple times, then rinsed with water. i dried it up with some clean towels and then sprayed on a ton of the "metal ready". this stuff prevents the rust from continuing... basically it reconditions the metal. instructions say to keep it wet for at least 30 minutes when at 70*F, longer if colder. well, it's 50 in my garage so i'm leaving it on for an hour. it's really starting to shine under there! the hour's up in 15 minutes, so i'll update with progress after i paint the first coat of POR15 on there.

all cleaned up, about to apply "metal ready":

here is how it currently sits with the metal ready on it:

 

[colbystephens]

well, got the first coat of it on there... screwed up in one spot tho. you'll see on the bottom of the following pic where i accidentally got some water onto the surface while painting... hope that doesn't present many problems! water and POR15 don't mix...

 

[AJMBLAZER]

Looking good man.

 

[colbystephens]

well, i just learned another valuable tip...

don't use your favorite $20 PURDY paint brush to apply that stuff unless you've got the proper thinner to remove it. i put it in a bucket of water, thinking it would stay workable/pliable/useable, but it hardened up like a rock. now i gotta wait till the hardware stores open to go get some cheapo's to use... guess you need one brush per coat.

i decided i'm only going to do 2 coats now, and then once i cut out the rockers, install the sliders and do some other things, i'll pick up another pint and go crazy. so far, i've only used about 1/4-1/3 of the pint tho.

 

[Izzy]

Going Far

Yeah my buddies that used the POR-15 said that a Lil bit goes a very long way. That is the same for the rust bullet also. Looks Good. Are you going to be painting over the POR?

 

[AJMBLAZER]

When you finish put a sheet of cerane(sp?) wrap between the lid and the can and put the whole can in a large zip lock bag. I always do that and other than once I've always had the stuff stay nice and usable. I can go shake my can of Chassis Saver right now and it'll shlosh around just like it should after over a year in my closet.

Oh yeah, don't let it get too cold either. I just keep mine in the "man room" closet inside the house.