I had carb icing troubles with an Edelbrock --worst in cool damp weather between 32-55 degrees--it would start up fine,run good while the choke was closed some ,then once it started to open,it would want to stall at idle,or run rough,until the engine got good and fully warmed up--often if I got out and opened the hood,I'd see FROST on the outside of the carb!...once it got hot enough to de-frost it,it ran sweet..but some days it didn't ever get that warm!..
What I did to cure that was to connect the vacuum hose on the EFE valve (aka as a heat riser that is on the passenger side exhaust manifold pipe) so it would stay closed all the time--that sends the exhaust from the right bank up under the intake manifiold ,which pre-heats the fuel and makes it vaporize better)--many trucks had this heat riser "deleted" ,along with the stock air cleaner that has the hot air pipe from the "stove" on the exhaust manifold and a flapper door to close and keep the cold air out of the carb till it warms up,and opens..
Once all this factory stuff is tossed,these types of troubles start...the only way to avoid them is to get the carb to "heat up" more by not using a thick insulator gasket or any thick metal spacers that prevent heat transfer to the carb,or to richen up the mixture somehow ,and thats not conductive to good fuel mileage or preventing carbon build up...
Your carb may benifit from an adjustment of the accelerator pump,try moving the linkage to the other holes to incerese the length of stroke,so it'll squirt more gas when you step on the pedal..also be sure there are no vacuum leaks at the base gasket or any other hoses,brake booster,etc,as they will cause poor running until it warms up all the way,when it wont be as noticeable..I spray carb cleaner on any suspected leaky areas,being careful not to get any on the distributor or plug wires,which could cause a flash fire!..the RPM's will change if there is a leak..