What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Complete A/C and heater replacement

rgretzinger

rgretzinger

1/2 ton status
Joined
Dec 8, 2010
Posts
167
Reaction score
0
Location
Longvew, TX
OK so here's the deal, I have a 74 k5 that is set up for A/C but it has lost all of the guts for the A/C. I talked to the local reputible A/C shop and they quoted me 2600 labor and parts for a completely new a/c with new replacement parts. If I provided all of the parts they said 1000 for install. I know nothing about A.C and I wouldn't even begin to attempt this myself. What would you do. How hard would it be to get all of the parts?
 
Personally, I would look into the VINTAGE Air setups. They are self contained and suppose to work well. If your missing all that stuff, Im not sure id take on a task of trying to get it working, etc. One of the biggest issues will be the heater/A/C controls. The rest are just parts.
 
How much does vintage air cost? Does it include the heater? The problem is that the heater works because the blower motor seems stuck on low but the controls don't work. The levers are stuck.
 
Replacing the a/c is my next project. LMC has most if not all the parts you'll need. Check ebay also, (I just got a 4 seasons evap core for $85 and a hose assembly for $50) Purchased a new style high efficiency compressor for $385 from Old Air Products, LMC gets $430 for the same one ,so shop around.
Theres no mystery to a/c systems, there are only a few major componets, the compressor, evaporator core, condenser core, accummulator, 2 hoses and a couple of control switches, that are all easy to replace. Then have your mechanic recharge the system for you. $2600 sounds a little pricey
 
I don't want to seem like I have a undying hatred for Vintage Air,,,, but I put it in my '70 in 1998 and took it out this winter and I am very soory I spent the $1100 back then to buy it. The factory stuff is quieter and no hose connections in the cab, no thermostat to adjust for summer/winter, more room to work on hose connections,and the big one for me was that defrost function was horrible! I had no problems this winter and in rain storms so far this year and I don't have the A/C compressor hooked back up yet! I would think you should be able to find the parts and someone to advise on putting yours back together. Try to be patient with all of it and do as much of it as you can.
 
Roll the window down, it's free. Blower motor adjusts with the skinny pedal.









:)
 
Avery4jc said:
Roll the window down, it's free. Blower motor adjusts with the skinny pedal.









:)
Click to expand...

If you're in Cali I'm sure thats fine.

In Arkansas (and many other southern states) that doesn't exactly work. :haha:

Whats really bad - when its middle of the summer 100* and 99% humidity, and up pops a thunder storm. Roll the windows up, suffocate and sweat, fog up the windows! Ahhhhhhhh! Roll windows back down! :thumb:
 
I know, I was just joking...

Its' 100*+ all summer here and upwards of 110* on quite a few days so we need our AC too. :)
 
Avery, I dunno if you spent any summers in Texas when you went to school there but wait until you experience those temps and HIGH humidity. 105 degrees and 80%+ humidity.
My AC is out on The Blazer and last summer it was still my DD. It SUCKED.




Beats snow though.
 
AJMBLAZER said:
Avery, I dunno if you spent any summers in Texas when you went to school there but wait until you experience those temps and HIGH humidity. 105 degrees and 80%+ humidity.
My AC is out on The Blazer and last summer it was still my DD. It SUCKED.




Beats snow though.
Click to expand...

Yeah I've been to Tennessee, Texas and Alabama in the summer time so I know how much the humidity sucks and I know how glad I am that it's relatively dry here most of the summer. :D
 
I don't remeber the part#, but it was the direct fit kit for my '70. The A/C worked well on r134, 38* air on 100* day but humidity in the mid teens or less. But the other things I mentioned made the difference to me. The noise level with the blower exposed under the dash was surprising to me. Now back with the factory stuff, I get some airflow as soon as the truck is moving. My vintage set-up was recirculate air only since it was all in the cab. I hopefully will find someone to buy this vintage air system that won't mind the things I dislike about it.
 
Well the noise issue souldn't be too bad due to the fact that I am about to install a soft top. I am sure I will catch some flack for spending all that money to put a/c in a soft topped Blazer, but there will be days that I will have to have it. So from reading your post it looks like it was the eveaporator that was the week link? Don't know too much about a/c. The things I like about the vintage air set up is that first it seems to be cheaper, it's a completely new system that was designed together, and they are made in Texas, albeit San Antonio. Do you think 1000 for install of one of these systems seems high? Would any a/c shop be able to install one of these systems?
 
The stock compressors are pretty pathetic as well. I was pretty much told the whole OEM setup is obsolete junk basically. A member on here pieced together his own setup using a more modern compressor and other components that were newer and optimized for 134 and got good results.
 
My plan is use a mid eighties evaporator with a Sanden compressor, even though we have used a reman- A-6, and charge it with 272? Can't remember the number of the freon, but I have driven a '75 c10 that was factory air except for the cycling switch and the freon, and on the highway it would put out 20* air at lower head pressures. The Sanden will only serve to boost low rpm performance. I think that the weak link for me in the Vintage Air was the recirculate only combined with the thermostat.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom