Winter is coming and I'd like to send these on to someone else who has more time to give them the attention they deserve. #1 1979 Silverado c10 project truck. May need an engine, currently has a 327 that turns but doesnt start. May be spun bearing and rebuildable but pan hadnt been off so I have no clue there. Automatic, A/C not charged but there, dual tanks, hydroboost brakes, 12 bolt rear, silverado trim, lots of newer and upgraded stuff under hood, also newer brakes and exhaust. The pics should speak for themselves, has rusted cab corners, lower bed and over rear wheelwells, one spot about 3" wide 6" long by kickpanel under e-brake. Rest of floors and rockers are solid, bed floor was previously repaired but is solid, etc. Price is $550, or make an offer. Pics on my link at another board for the truck: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=162010 #2 1984 GMC Sierra 1500. Bought the truck to redo, now I'm looking @ a short-term relocation so if someone else wants it for around what I have into it, I'll try to give the best walkthrough I can of ever little thing I know it needs offhand, but I havent owned her more than a couple months. Base 1/2 ton with few options. Currently reads just under 100,800 original miles. 8' fleet bed with heavy duty rear springs. Antenna in windshield, aftermarket sony radio, sliding rear window, poverty hubcaps, step bumper. Full set of guages (not idiot lamps) but no clock. Non-A/C truck, power steering, manual brakes. Mechanical: Engine Bay 250 Inline 6, starts and idles good but is overdue for a tuneup (engine misses under load sometimes needs cap/rotor/etc?). The A.I.R. equiptment should be removed as some of the lines are broken, and isnt really worth trying to fix IMO, runs fine with it inop and is just taking up space. Overflow tank leaks but radiator doesnt, engine runs between 160-180* on hottest days no problem. Wiper fluid pump needs to be checked. Mechanical: Running Gear/Brakes/Tires/Exhaust Rear brakes redone shortly after buying the truck, about 2k miles ago, I've since decided they werent done properly and need to be redone (shoes may/may not be under warranty from garage??). Fronts checked out ok for now, rotors are grooved but pads adjusted themselves and the shop said good for another 15-20k or so miles. Steering is straight, alignment is good, and the 4 tires are brand new 235/75/r15 dakota H/Ts ~2k miles ago for about $400. Exhaust system was replaced when I was buying the truck from the small dealership, tailpipe has since been slightly kinked but functional. Muffler and intermediate pipe were replaced at the same time, although there is some noise most likely a loose clamp in the y-pipe to cat area?? Parking brake cables will need to be replaced. Body Condition: Exterior Front bumper has some scrapes and faded chrome. headlight surrounds are both cracked, and grille was broken/removed. Leading edge of hood has a small ding/dent in it, which continues into the radiator support although is not very noticable form a couple feet away. Drivers fender has flat dent in marker area and appears to have been previously replaced (paint is not original anyways). Passanger fender has a couple small dings here and there, as does the remainder of the body. Both inner fenders are servicable but have rust, particular and the front lower ends. Doors both have very shallow dents/dings in the sides, look good from 5 feet but noticible up close. mirrors sprayed black by a PO, and glass in passanger side is missing. Black rear sliding window in good shape. Bed is very solid, but both rear cross sills will need repair, as will tailpan. Beedfloor is good, bedsides have some dings/shallow dents but there is only one rust spot above the passanger side wheelwell, about 4" up and very small. Rear tailgate has some lower rust but opens/closes fine, rear step bumper has slight bend but is also fine. Rear wiring will need diagnosis, passanger rear turn signal occasionally fails to operate. Rear plate lamps will also need to be spliced back in. Body Condition: Frame/Undercarriage/Lower Body Cab floors and kick panels are very solid, having been extensively undercoated and show a bare minimum of rust. Most the the entire length of the truck looks terrific. PO did a slip over cover on the drivers side rocker, but looking from underneath rust damage is not appearant. PO also did minor mid-in job on the drivers cab corner, and passanger side has some surface rust where paint wore off on rocker, and small rust starting where rocker and cab corner join. Majority of the frame is still undercoated exception perhaps the last 10" or so which is surface rust colored, and alont the top edge in some areas. Body Condition: Interior Rubber mat for flooring, PO cut holes in the doors to mount speakers and spliced into dash wiring for radio. Dashpad has normal cracking, door panels normal scratching. Black w/red pinstrips, vinyl bench with small tears on drivers lower, upper is fine. MW/ML, heater works good and kick panel vents are functional. painted steel roof, both sunvisors present and in good shape. Non-tilt, non-cruise column. Horn worked when purchased but has since stopped, contact in wheel still sparks when depressed so possible unit failur or wiring to be diagnosed. I paid $800 for it, and between the new brake line, rear brakes, tires etc have about $1400 into it so far. make any sort of offers and I'll consider selling it cheap minus some parts (the new tires, etc etc).Truck is currently parked in southern RI. Again, pics are here to save server space: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=165938 #3 1985 Buick Riviera with Buick Grand National Engine. Exterior: front bumper is pitted, hood ornament is missing from repaint but hole is un damaged. Front fillers are cracking, paint has some scratches. Drivers inner fender had some rust starting, pass door handle button doesnt work from outside but opens from inside. Drivers door has a paint bubble on the lower corner, theres some shallow dents in the roof most likely from travelling the country so much (was a military officers car). Rear trunk lid also has a paint bubble on the right side with some lip rust, and rear fillers are cracking. Rear bumper guards have some rust on them and there is a hitch on the back of the car. Interior: Headliner is sagging down, driver lower door panel is loose, power seat switch acts up. There is a toggle switch on dash I assume for air shocks which I am unsure if they work right, I hear air hissing from leakdown but unsure why. plastic chrome trim strip around dash is cracked from age. rear seat needs to be cleaned, I couldnt get it to show up in the pics but there was a spot on the drivers rear cushion. Mechanical: Exhaust parts need to be replaced, original cat had rusted at the neck and is the reason the old parts had been pulled out, it and the replacement cut-out are included and as well as the new intermediate pipe. Air shocks as prev mentioned sound like leaking air but didnt affect the car driving home except it looks to sit a little lower in the rear Radio was removed from the car to prevent breaking in/theft during storage and will be included if found before sale. Make an offer on it? #4 1983 Buick Regal coupe, 55k original miles, clean body red interior, silver and black exterior, stuck valve in engine but runs/drives, also needs complate front brake job and rusted in the rear frame while stored. Best Offer?