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Considering becoming a traitor.

DavidB

DavidB

1/2 ton status
Joined
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El Centro, CA
So I've got my old '81 CJ-7 sitting around (first vehicle). It was Dana 44s locked on 35s 4" lift pretty stock otherwise. I basically beat it to death, body mounts tearing out of the body, and the body is pretty well beat. Been trying to part out the drivetrain.

I also have a 1 ton '88 K5 Blazer on 38" Michelins that I recently flipped and ruined the body. Still runs and drives. TBI 350, 700R4, NP208, 60, 14FF, detroits, crossover, yadda yadda.

The blazer is too heavy and bulky as-is. Options I'm seeing...

1: hack K5 down and cage it, but what weight I get rid of in sheetmetal I'll prolly gain back in tube.

2: take drivetrain out of K5 and put it in the Jeep frame/body and cage it. Cage built to reinforce frame.

3: put the Jeep body on the blazer frame since the engine, axles, gas tank, steering box, etc. already fit, then cage it. This might end up weighing almost the same as # 1. Haven't gotten the tape out to see how feaseable this is. Imagine it's been done, but don't want it to look hack.

4: Build one of my crewcab K30s. Cool, but heavy and it would need a 454 to move around in the dunes, and still be low on power...big heavy fullsizes in the dunes make me nervous after endoing the K5.

I'm aiming for a barely street legal, light weight desert multipurpose wheeler on a budget that's hard to break, with the least amount of work of course. Dirt, rocks, dunes. I have a machine and wleding shop to work out of.

So....what say ye?
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fabjunkie said:
Sell me the Michelins!! How about doing a truck cab with a flatbed on the back?
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That's a thought too. My bro's K10 works well, only weighs 4800. Fullsize cab is wide tho...
 
These would be my first choices.

#1. Truggy the chevy, link the rear. Should come in around 4500 pounds...that's what I'm shooting for anyways.

#2. Re-tub the jeep, swap in the chevy axles and drivetrain. Rust free tubs should be a dime a dozen in your area. A lot less work.
 
mikey_d05 said:
These would be my first choices.

#1. Truggy the chevy, link the rear. Should come in around 4500 pounds...that's what I'm shooting for anyways.


#2. Re-tub the jeep, swap in the chevy axles and drivetrain. Rust free tubs should be a dime a dozen in your area. A lot less work.
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I'm too lazy to link/truggy. Seems like a lot of work cutting down all that sheet metal and bending all the tube and skinning it to make it look street legal.


I could actually use the same tub...it's ugly but usable I think.
 
Went out and poked around after I got off tonight. I think I'm gonna stick with the K5. Just needs some :hack::weld::grind:

I "narrowed" the rear in about 10 minutes tonight. Threadeded some eye bolts in where the tailgate latches, etc go and put a come-along between them, sucked them in a few inches, then picked up on the come-along with the crane, pulling the floor and the sides up and in more. The floor was bent down and the sides out from the endo.

Took off the rear bumper, took out the seat, took out the carpet in the back(heavy:eek1:). It now sits 1-2" higher in the back. Guess I'll have to lift the front more or take a leaf out of the back. I think by the time I get everything else unnecessary gutted out and the top cut off I'll be well under 5000#, and I think I came up with a good, strong, simple idea for a cage without adding too much weight as well. Then I just gotta move the fuel tank and shove the rear axle way back, add a little trailer winch in the back hooked to the axle to pull down the rear suspension on descents (controlled by what used to be the switch for the back window :D )and I should be good to go. Maybe put my old J**P seat in the back since the K5 seat is trash...
 
IMO I wouldn't worry about the back coming up on downhill sections. Plenty of guys are running 1/4 elliptic rears and no problems (on full size truggys and mid size trucks based off a full size chassis). But, its also understandable to want some added insurance, or just add a small tool chest, spare tire, and bench seat from the CJ like u said. Hell do all 3.
 
iwaxmyjimmy said:
I'm starting to get the feeling your a prerunner trapped in a K5 wheelers body?
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Not really, but there's lots of ground and dunes to cover between crawling trails here.
 
K10A'sBROinSLO said:
3: put the Jeep body on the blazer frame since the engine, axles, gas tank, steering box, etc. already fit, then cage it. This might end up weighing almost the same as # 1. Haven't gotten the tape out to see how feaseable this is. Imagine it's been done, but don't want it to look hack.



http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=284273&stc=1&d=1169773716

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Stretch it and put it on the Blazer frame :D Im putting a Landcruiser body on my K5 frame right now :pimp:
 
FRIZZLEFRY said:
Stretch it and put it on the Blazer frame :D Im putting a Landcruiser body on my K5 frame right now :pimp:
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I saw it...isn't it gonna be kinda fattycakes?

What made you ditch the fullsize cab?
 
I say take the Heep and put it on the stock Blazer frame and Jcut the rear and stretch the nose. Maybe flat fender it and use hood pins or something. The wheel base of a Heep is only about 10" less than a K5.

Ira
 
You could also put the full width axles under the jeep and make the wheel base what ever you want. THat along with the drivetrain from the K5 and you could run those 38s with almost no lift at all:D

Ira
 
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