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Constant Velocity joint?

I think you would have to cut and turn one of the yokes on the driveshaft to make it work. I might be wrong though

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Yes, like said above, you must use the CV-specific yoke or flange (with the ball joint provision) and weld the other side of the CV to the shaft. It's not just 2 U-joints.
 
There are alot of ways to lengthen your driveshaft, cheapest and probably the last option would be to cut it apart, find the right size tube and weld it into the tube, keep everything lined up and do your rosettes opposite of each other and you might even mantain balance.

The local driveshaft shop will lengthen driveshafts for around a hundred bucks.

Another option is just to cut off the yokes and retube it yourself, but it will not be balanced at all.

I assume its a rear shaft? If its a K5 go to a wrecking yard get a driveshaft out of a pickup and shorten it by cutting one yoke off, cutting the tube and shortining it.

Tons of ways to get a longer driveshaft
 
You can cut down a driveshaft from a 70's caddy down maybe,they had two CV "H" yokes,one on each end,with a total of 4 U joints....I have seen some guys with extreme lifts do that---you would have to use conversion U joints probably,as the caddy used the larger U-joints with inside clips rather than the typical 1/2 ton ones with outside clips..if you have bigger 3/4 or 1 ton U-joints you'd be better off making a CV shaft from scratch,or buy one ,as adapting those to the caddy yokes wont be possible...
 
Once you cut and weld, all previous balancing is null.

You could try fluid balance. After the shaft is done, drill a hole and put some ATF inside. Then weld the hole shut. I have no idea how well it works. You might also call around and see what local shops charge to balance a shaft.
 
and if its a ballon shaft ( flared diamitor in the middle compared to the ends ) it cant be played with much at all. its a funny size gm only tube.
 

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