Continued tailgate issues

[dyeager535]

Dealing with a power window that is sticking in various positions, particularly about 1/4 of the way up.

I already replaced the (worn flat) roller on the drivers side of the regulator assembly arm, which I expected was going to resolve the issue with the window sticking about 2/3 of the way up.

However, now that I've fixed that issue, the window seems to cant/lean towards the drivers side as the window comes up, eventually binding up. If I yank up on the drivers side of the window, which moves it up a 1/2", then roll the window up more, it moves an inch or so, and binds back up the same way. Somewhere over approximately 1/4 of the way up, the problem stops and the window goes up normally.

I've investigated how the tailgate/glass mates up to the topper, not an issue. I looked at the window channel (piece on either side that guides the glass up) and it is down to bare metal.

I'm certain I'm going to have to disassemble the whole thing, and buy parts, has anyone dealt with similar problem and have some insight?

I expect that the window channels being metal on metal isn't helping, but I don't want to spend the $100 if that isn't going to resolve the issue. I also hate to disassemble the thing to make sure something else isn't going on, as I'll end up with a truck full of water while waiting on parts, but may be no choice. I need to fix the key switch (again) as well.

Any comment on the LMC glass channel parts? I assume Cheyenne's offering is the same manufacturer, same price anyway. From my experience with other products that had some sort of "coating" on them, the coating didn't last. If the window channel felt or whatever it is peels off quickly, it's somewhat pointless to replace it. Although having an operable tailgate is kind of important, I'd like it to last more than a couple times.

 

[JoshHefnerX]

Mine was sticking occasionally in roughly the same spot. The metal from the top of the tailgate had been distorted such that as it rolled up the glass was catching on that lip. I bent it back into the tailgate out of the way so that it lined up w/ the ends of the channel.

I also replaced my felt in there w/ some old skool bearing wicking felt. Cleaned out the rails, contact adhesive and held that felt on to the edge of the glass for a few mins. So far it's holding out. LMC wanted like $50ea for them, which I thought was pretty outrageous.

 

[dyeager535]

How long ago did you replace it? Do you have any specifics on the vendor, material, thickness, etc.? Might save me some time.

I'm a bit worried something else is going on though, the way the window cants to one side. It's like the rails have been opened up or something. Tailgate is in good shape externally, but maybe they have rotted out or something.

 

[JoshHefnerX]

Honestly, I haven't a clue where this came from. It was passed through a few hands before it got to me. But felt wicking material has been used for a while for lubrication on machinery for a long time. I don't believe it would be the only thing that would work, but it seemed to have decent properties. Tough, didn't shread or pill up. and you can spray a little silicone spray in and it will old onto it for a while. I cleaned the old material out w/ a brush, and used some dap weldwood to put the new stuff in.

 

[dyeager535]

This tailgate has issues lol.

The soft stuff used in the window channel on either side isn't in real good shape anymore. Drivers side window channel is rotten through at the bottom, allowing it to flex, and the channel didn't line up properly on that side with the top of the tailgate (there is a guide piece as part of the tailgate here) so that may have been an issue as well.

Apparently from the soft material being worn, and probably the channel flexing more than it should due to the rust/crack, at some point the window was definitely catching on the rivets that hold the regulator together, so that was part of the rolling up issue.

The roller on the passenger side regulator arm is shot, so I'm going to have to make another bearing replacement for that side.

I'm almost tempted to see if I can get creative and carve a piece of Teflon up to completely replace the soft guide material in the window channel. You wouldn't want or need it real tight in the channel, but it would seem to be a fairly simple fix, with little need to clean the channel up too much. Wire wheel out the major rust, grease it to keep rust at bay as good as you can, and hopefully the Teflon would hold up. The way the window sash is designed to ride in the channel, it would be pretty similar in application to the pads used on shift forks. Edit: Doesn't appear this would work, the glass appears to ride in the channel as well, so a block of teflon would risk binding, and breaking the glass.

Boys and girls, much of this is why good seals on the windows are important. Rust is likely the cause of most of the problems I'm seeing, keeping the components dry would at least prolong the inevitable, and that's what the seals are supposed to do.

 

[JoshHefnerX]

Sounds like you had several issues going on.

Who makes decent tailgate seals? Most of lmc has so-so reviews because of sizing issues...

 

[dyeager535]

Sounds like you had several issues going on.

Who makes decent tailgate seals? Most of lmc has so-so reviews because of sizing issues...

If you can get them, GM. Very few of the seals are still being sold by GM, but I've collected spares as time has gone on.

We've created the "crappy seal" problem ourselves. Very few are willing to pay for quality anymore, so it comes down to who can get the Chinese or Thai's to produce the cheapest product to retail. And then we end up with lowest production cost products, which suck. The GM seals are worth the 50%+ premium if you can get them, and intend to keep the truck and want them to function properly for a long time, let alone fit.