converting hard breaklones to flexable???

[Fancy]

So i was wanting to convert most of my hard break lines to custom made flexable breaded stainless steel lines that i have had a local shop make for me before. But before i do i would like to know if anyone has done this or if it is possible. They are just anoying and seem to get in the way of everything i would prefer to weave them out of the way and where i want them.

What or the coils in the lines coming from the master cylinder for?

Any other things i should know as well? Will this make my breaks spongy?

 

[4X4HIGH]

DO NOT, do this. It WILL make the brakes spongy, I don't care what anyone else says.

The coils in the brake lines near the master cylinder are for chassis/body flex so the lines don't break with any movement.

 

[sweetk30]

hard lines = firm pedal

flex lines no matter rubber or braided stainless steel = spongy.

but of the 2 rubber is a lot worse for spongy felling.

i would NOT do all flex / rubber / braided lines on whole vehicle.

and coils on master down to frame point of prop valve are for small amount of flex needed for body to frame flex or thay would break in short order.

 

[ktmoutfront]

I ran hard lines as much as possible. Still have about 6 feet of flex going to the front. 3 feet on each side. And did not get a firm pedal.

Stops fine but is soft.

 

[cybrfire]

I agree with the other guys, alot of flexible lines will make for a spongy pedal.

If done right though, you could lose the coils section at the master cylinder and put in a short flex line there. Keeping in mind the longer that flex section is the more "spongeyness" you'll introduce to the system.

You may want to investigate the other areas of the plumbing and see if you can reduce some of the soft line length somewhere else. Quality flex lines cost some coin but are worth it.

 

[73redblaze]

i wanted to do the same thing but i think im going to run my own hard lines and use the flaring tool. one question though, where can i buy the fittings and what size are the fittings?

 

[4X4HIGH]

i wanted to do the same thing but i think im going to run my own hard lines and use the flaring tool. one question though, where can i buy the fittings and what size are the fittings?

There are usually a couple different fitting sizes used especially at the master cylinder but you can get any of the fittings at your local auto parts store.

 

[Deuling]

What about running hard lines from the MC, to the frame point above each axle, running one piece of flex down (just enought needed for axle movement) then a tee, to hard lines feeding both sides of the axle, I bet a foot or less of the braided could be used (depending on the application I guess) and provide enough flexablilty in the lines to compensate for axle movement... (while still using the rubber lines on the front axle for turning operations)

 

[ryoken]

that works anywhere you have drums, ala stock rear.. but you can't hardline to calipers... thus why you see people use the short "jumper" hoses on rear disc setup's...

 

[496truck]

Mainly you can't do that in the front because of the steering. You'll need to run hoses on each side for that. So why not just run a long hose on each side that will handle suspension flex and steering at the same time. AKA if it aint broke, don't fix it.

To the OP, why not run new hard lines where you want them to go?

 

[ryoken]

all you'd be doing up front is adding a hose, thus 2 more fail points... sure you could allow for crazy articulation, but it's limited in other ways then... and yup, the KISS theory fully applies here IMO....

 

[Deuling]

that works anywhere you have drums, ala stock rear.. but you can't hardline to calipers... thus why you see people use the short "jumper" hoses on rear disc setup's...

Mainly you can't do that in the front because of the steering. You'll need to run hoses on each side for that. So why not just run a long hose on each side that will handle suspension flex and steering at the same time. AKA if it aint broke, don't fix it.

To the OP, why not run new hard lines where you want them to go?

This is why I made this comment.... As in the rubber lines that come stock to the front....

(while still using the rubber lines on the front axle for turning operations)

 

[Fancy]

Well thanks for all the good replies and view points. Just to fill you in on my current setup i ran custom breaded front line replacing the stock rubbers from frame to each front wheel and the jumper in the rear from frame to axle and from disk to axle hardline. This worked out for a while but the hard line that runs along the rear axle got so mangle i replaced it with more custom breaded line to keep it out of the way and neat. i have yet to hook it up to see how much of a difference it makes but i don't expect much.

I can defiantly see how replacing most the hard line would make for a spongy peddle so i will most likely run new hard lines where i am having trouble with them getting tangled

 

[blazinzuk]

I would spend the money on a good flaring tool like from Mastercool.

They are spendy, then just bend my own hard lines. Having a good flaring tool makes all the difference in the world

 

[sweetk30]

mastercool tool is the top A#1 tool for lines.

i have had one for over 7 years give or take a few years.

i will never go back to the old style tool.

and i have the master set to make push lock fuel lines and o-ring seal style gm fuel and p/s lines also.